Swapping to an 8.75 suregrip

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branded209

branded209

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I have a 72 Dart and I have recently installed an A833 4 speed. The rear end I have in it is a 7.25 and I saw the post about how long the driveshafts are supposed to be but the combination of 4 speed and 8.75 was not posted. I need to know how long to have my drive shaft cut down. I also had my axles rebuilt but the man at the shop said he used "green bearings" because the old style adjusters aren't sold anymore?? So now he told me to remove a small block in the center of my third member so that the axles can free float?? I am not rear end savy so any help is lovely! Thanks in advance gents!
 
Thrust pinion spacer is whats at the center of the 3rd member that would need to be removed for green bearings.
Removal methods without removing the entire pumpkin, I have no idea on.
h-5387-6a.jpg
 
Regarding the thrust block/buttons, which type of sure grip do you have?

Clutch or cone?

As far as DS length I would strongly suggest contacting your local driveline shop and ask them how they want you to measure and go from there. When you measure, the suspension MUST be loaded. As in jack stands under the rear so the full weight of the car is on it.
 
Okay, again my lack of knowledge has struck. I bought axles with green bearings. I did not remove the thrust pinion spacer. I installed the axles without any problem. 8 3/4 with 489 center section with 3:55 sure grip. Did I do something that I'm gonna have to fix?
 
To the OP, It does make a difference on what type of sure grip you have! The pins shown above are in the clutch type. If you have the cone style, you have to take the SG apart to remove the thrust block. You can test fit your axles by bolting one of them in tight and attempt to slide the other one in, if it goes all the way in and doesn't contact the trust pins and therefore "hold " the axle away from seating in the housing you will be ok. I also don't know why he said you can't buy the tapered bearings any more, because you can.
 
I do not know why he said that Sg, it's just what he told me. The piece inside the third member doesn't look round though it's more of a square as far as I can see in comparison to that picture.
 
branded 209, check my post days ago. Member's here helped me with my questions on my sure grip with is the clutch type 742 case. Tapperd bearings are still available. I just replaced mine this week. Cheapest place I found was Advance. Just over $40.00 for the pair. Bearing and collar, Nationals to. The center section I bought was missing the buttons and pin and from what I found out on the clutch type to use the factory style bearing these buttons have to be there or your axles will move in and out slightly. If these buttons are removed then the previous owner of the center section had to have used the green bearings which require no buttons.:cheers:
 
branded209 said:
I do not know why he said that Sg, it's just what he told me. The piece inside the third member doesn't look round though it's more of a square as far as I can see in comparison to that picture.
Click to expand...

When you look down the hole where the axle goes in you should see the head of the thrust button with the little hole in the middle where the "nail" or "Roll Pin"
should be.
 
i think it depends on the axle you are using. i have always had moser either cut down c-body axles or bought new big bolt axles from moser and have never needed to remove that thrust spacer. it seems that guys using yukon axles seem to have to remove that piece for some reason.
 
Look in the factory parts book for your car, or for a 71 that has a 4 speed and your motor.
There will be a section for prop shaft and will list part numbers and lengths.
 
FJ5 said:
Okay, again my lack of knowledge has struck. I bought axles with green bearings. I did not remove the thrust pinion spacer. I installed the axles without any problem. 8 3/4 with 489 center section with 3:55 sure grip. Did I do something that I'm gonna have to fix?
Click to expand...



I just put my rear end together. Have a cut down housing and I purchased axles/green bearings. Bolted axles in the housing and they were touching the thrust block. I just cut 2mm from each axle bolted back in and all good. I new mine were just touching as it was binding when I spun the centre. Whoever shortened my rear had cut it down slightly shorter than standard measurements. Sounds good to me what you have done. Does it spin ok without binding.
 
Im currently running the Eaton tru trac posi unit , it does not require limited slip additive and is rated for up to 950 HP , its a little expensive but what a nice set up
 
oK I will go look right now, to the other gent who said to go buy the tapered I ALREADY have the green bearings on my axles there is no point in buying more parts
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
When you look down the hole where the axle goes in you should see the head of the thrust button with the little hole in the middle where the "nail" or "Roll Pin"
should be.
Click to expand...
ahh yes I see it now, I grabbed a flashlight and rolled it on the side. Also my axles are stock A body 8.75 axles 5x4 bolt pattern
 
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