tailpipe question

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mopardemon340

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im going to be using a TTI 2.5 tailpipes to ensure clearance around the axle and out the back. the muffler will be 3 inch offset center then necked down for the tail pipes.. later in time i plan on getting a spring relocation kit.. so before i get the spring relocation i want to have my exhaust in place snow so i dont have to do it later. what do i need to do to make sure the tti tailpipes will work with the spring relocation.
 
Personally I'd wait til after I moved the springs. If you are doing the relocation to the frame rails, I have my doubts as to the tail pipes working. The drivers side maybe. Passenger highly unlikely. Here's a picture of my Demon with springs moved in to frame and stock gas tank. I believe the TTI's follow the frame rails out.

IMG_0824.JPG
 
How about with the gas tank removed? (I'm assuming the spare tire well is not an obstruction since that stays in the same place)...
 
here are the 2.5" tti tail pipes mounted on our dart below Dubob's pic for comparrison.. not sure they will work with a spring relocation..



img_0824-jpg.1715032363.jpg

DSC_0016_1.jpg
 
i think i got it figured out.. the reason i wanted to do the spring relocation was so i can get wider tires.. 235x70x15 28 inch tall and 9.3 inches wide and was concerned about them rubbing, the rums im getting have a back space of 4.625 iches but i measured the car for back spacing and got 6 inches so i should have enough clearance to run tire that 9.3 inches wide. so there for i wont need to relocate my springs and can use the tti tailpipes with no issues. the only rubbing i will have are from the traction bars but that will change once i have caltrac bars.
 
i think i got it figured out.. the reason i wanted to do the spring relocation was so i can get wider tires.. 235x70x15 28 inch tall and 9.3 inches wide and was concerned about them rubbing, the rums im getting have a back space of 4.625 iches but i measured the car for back spacing and got 6 inches so i should have enough clearance to run tire that 9.3 inches wide. so there for i wont need to relocate my springs and can use the tti tailpipes with no issues. the only rubbing i will have are from the traction bars but that will change once i have caltrac bars.
the tank in the last pic sure is narrower than mine !
 
how is everyone mating up the 2.5 tailpipes with 3 inch mufflers.
 
yea i figured i could do that but i was worried about voiding any kind of warranty. thats if there is one..
 
Or use an adapter. Won't stretching 2.5" to 3" make the wall of the tubing very thin (or tear it at the seam)?

I just ordered these Heartthrob 3" tailpipes since I've already built the system as far as the mufflers. $227 shipped, and they are split where they go up and over the axle which will make them easy to install. Even if I have to modify them, it beats starting from scratch with a pile of mandrel bends.

1967-1974 Mopar A-Body 3" Header Dual Kit
 
Tried to put the 3" Heartthrob tailpipes on today... my mufflers ended up slightly further to the rear than stock, so I trimmed 1" off the end of each front tailpipe section. Lots of room under there without the stock tank.

Unfortunately the right side will not quite line up at the over-axle joint. The two ends are quite visibly misaligned at an angle. The rear tailpipes are designed to hang beneath the frame rails, and with my minitubs and inward-relocated springs the bend in the rear pipe interferes with the spring. With the pipe in the proper position, the joint won't slide in all the way and there's about a 3/8" gap at the top outside joint.

(The left side has just enough slack in the joint to mate up, although welding it on the car would be "interesting". I plan to tack it and then let the axle hang down which hopefully will give enough room to get the joined pipes out.)

If I can find a tight enough mandrel bend, I can cut it as short as possible (and trim the rear tailpipe if needed). That'll line the ends back up! 15 or 18 degree bends seem to be a stock item at least with 4.5" radius. A tight 1D (3" radius) bend would be better if available.

There's a lot of extra length coming out under the rear valance, so that will need to be "adjusted" (and to install turndowns). I was hoping to add glasspacks to the straight sections, but they definitely won't clear the leaf springs either.

So this kit isn't the perfect solution either, but it's close, and I got the four pieces for $227 shipped. I don't think anyone makes tailpipes to fit minitub/spring relocated A-bodies anyhow...

Edit: I had a bright(?) idea just after posting... cut a crescent-shaped piece from scrap 3" tubing, and weld it over the gap. Less work than trying to cram a tight bend in that area, cheaper than buying bends, but a little "rigged"...
 
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Tried to put the 3" Heartthrob tailpipes on today... my mufflers ended up slightly further to the rear than stock, so I trimmed 1" off the end of each front tailpipe section. Lots of room under there without the stock tank.

Unfortunately the right side will not quite line up at the over-axle joint. The two ends are quite visibly misaligned at an angle. The rear tailpipes are designed to hang beneath the frame rails, and with my minitubs and inward-relocated springs the bend in the rear pipe interferes with the spring. With the pipe in the proper position, the joint won't slide in all the way and there's about a 3/8" gap at the top outside joint.

(The left side has just enough slack in the joint to mate up, although welding it on the car would be "interesting". I plan to tack it and then let the axle hang down which hopefully will give enough room to get the joined pipes out.)

If I can find a tight enough mandrel bend, I can cut it as short as possible (and trim the rear tailpipe if needed). That'll line the ends back up! 15 or 18 degree bends seem to be a stock item at least with 4.5" radius. A tight 1D (3" radius) bend would be better if available.

There's a lot of extra length coming out under the rear valance, so that will need to be "adjusted" (and to install turndowns). I was hoping to add glasspacks to the straight sections, but they definitely won't clear the leaf springs either.

So this kit isn't the perfect solution either, but it's close, and I got the four pieces for $227 shipped. I don't think anyone makes tailpipes to fit minitub/spring relocated A-bodies anyhow...

Edit: I had a bright(?) idea just after posting... cut a crescent-shaped piece from scrap 3" tubing, and weld it over the gap. Less work than trying to cram a tight bend in that area, cheaper than buying bends, but a little "rigged"...

thanks for the write up and helped alot. i went with 2.5 inch tailpipes to give me the room and i wont be doing the spring relocation. ill just run a spacer if clearance is needed for my tires
 
2.5 are always easier than 3 to fit back there, certainly. Probably quieter too. Doubt you could run much of a spacer since then you have interference with the outside of the tire.

I ended up cutting a 3/8" wedge from the front over-axle pipes (at the widest point, aligned with the direction I needed the bend to go), tack-welding and having the local muffler shop MIG the cut edges together for $10.

That moved the rear tailpipes toward the center and also downwards slightly. So there was room for a pair of 18" Summit glasspacks as shown. I cut most of the straight part of the rear tailpipes off and replaced them with the glasspacks and turndowns mounted directly to the outlets.

An easy rework and a decent-fitting set of tailpipes. They wouldn't have needed any modification with springs in the stock location. Still don't know about gas tank clearance though.

Now I just have to rig a pair of hangers either in front or behind the glasspacks... the Missouri-Engineered #12 house wire supports probably won't pass tech :D
Dart exhaust (1).JPG
Dart exhaust (2).JPG
Dart exhaust (3).JPG
Dart exhaust (4).JPG
Dart exhaust (10).JPG
 
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