Tearing it down

-
dustermaniac

dustermaniac

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
6,186
Reaction score
289
Location
Modesto, CA
Well I am tearing down my engine to install a new Camshaft and lifters and Timing Chain and Gears. Cam is a Comp Cam Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/272, Lift .454/.454, Matching Hydraulic lifters, Timing Chain is a double roller Crane Cam Model 69993-1 I have a couple questions-- If I install this setup I have a set of Mopar 360 heads part # 4343475. Heads are stock and have never been machined as far as I can tell. Would I need to change out anything if I decided to use these heads? I will be running an Edelbrock Performer manifold and an Edelbrock 600 CFM Carb, Hooker Comp Headers, Transmission is TCI Streetfighter with a TPI Converter 2500 stall. Would I need to have these heads machined to keep up the compression ratio? And if so, would I need to change out the stock pushrods? Would changing out the stock rockers for roller rockers make a difference? Any help is appreciated in this as I am kind of new at this and am trying to get a decent setup that will be a strong low end torque motor. Would advancing the cam also give me more bang? I posted a couple pics of the teardown as of now. Sorry these are cell phone pics. My camera is DOA.
 

Attachments

  • Jun23_001.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 273
  • Jun23_002.jpg
    94 KB · Views: 284
340 Heads are not the originals neither J or X heads. Block is stamped 340. I believe the heads on this block are off a 318. It was this way when I got the car.
 
Believe there was a guy selling the magnum conversion for less that 250 for everything check it out and put a better head on there!
 
definetely advance the cam. 4 degrees would give you more bottom end torque and make your car streetable at the same time an offset keyway makes it simple. i prefer torque over HP but both make a sweet combo. good luck
 
If the left side of the block, above the starter ends in "340 - ??" then it's a 340. The right side of the block will have the casting date/year. That's the same for any 360 or 318 too. I'd like to know what you have (definately) before too much more is said. The short, short version IMO: If you have a 71 or earlier 340 or a 360, run the 360 heads and degree the cam "straight up". If you have a later-than-71 340, or 318, run the 318 heads and advance the camshaft 2°.
 
Block is stamped 340. cannot see the stamping with the headers on very clearly. Tore deeper into it last night and have already been outside at it this morning. Here's a few shots of old parts removed. Oil galleries and intake look to be very clean upon teardown, :hello1: Going to be removing headers and cylinder heads today. Then I am thinking of stripping the engine bay of the paint thats there and removing all the components in the engine bay and covering the block and strip and paint the correct color. Just need to check if I have enough paint stored away to shoot engine compartment.
 

Attachments

  • Jun26_001.jpg
    70.2 KB · Views: 212
  • Jun26_004.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 230
  • Jun26_005.jpg
    86.9 KB · Views: 212
Are you sure about the 340 stamping? This block has got the threads to put the retainer for the roller lifters in the valley, so i think it´s a late roller cam LA 318 or 360 - as far as i know there was no 340 made with this mods.

Michael


dustermaniac said:
Block is stamped 340. Tore deeper into it last night and have already been outside at it this morning. Here's a few shots of old parts removed. Oil galleries and intake look to be very clean upon teardown, :hello1: Going to be removing headers and cylinder heads today. Then I am thinking of stripping the engine bay of the paint thats there and removing all the components in the engine bay and covering the block and strip and paint the correct color. Just need to check if I have enough paint stored away to shoot engine compartment.
Click to expand...
 
Also Im guessing your putting a new cam in since you did not put the lifters in order?
 
Yes I am putting in a new cam. The stamping on the block looks to be 340. I will check into this after I pull the heads. I did not get to pulling the heads off today (too hot). Spent the day stripping paint and cleaning and degreasing parts and priming and painting and detailing. I will post up the stamping when I can get a clear look at the block. It is difficult to read the stamping with the headers.
 
360duster said:
Are you sure about the 340 stamping? This block has got the threads to put the retainer for the roller lifters in the valley, so i think it´s a late roller cam LA 318 or 360 - as far as i know there was no 340 made with this mods.

Michael
Click to expand...

Good eye. 340's never had roller lifters and those are definitely roller lifter spider bosses. Must be a 87 or newer.

Tom, what casting heads are on it now?
 
4323302. just looked this # up. now I am convinced that this is either a 318 or 360 block. Now next question. Should I just look for an earlier year block and replace the block and get a set of J or X heads or run this block with the cam set up I posted. I do not want to waste putting these parts into this motor if it is a smog motor. When I bought this car 11 yrs ago this was the engine that was in it. It runs fine but I was looking to get more lower end torque and figured a step up in cam would get me there. I am looking at a set of J heads another member has for sale here and will pull the trigger on em if this would increase the compression ratio. The heads on this block are out of here. As stated before I maybe going in the wrong direction here but need some advice from you Mopar guru's. The heads I was thinking of using are stamped 3434375A which I also looked up and are listed as a 360 head.
 
If it's a 318 (which it probably is since it's a roller block and 302 heads were used on 318 roller engines) the J heads will lower the compression due to their open chambers vs. the closed chamber's on the 302 heads. 302 heads are good heads for a small cube engine so if it's a teen they'll work fine. The cam you have isn't real big yet I don't think it'll help low end torque. It might even loose some low end but it will open it up a good amount in the mid to upper range. You could still use your cam and overcome it with a high stall converter. You basically have a few way's to go. Keep the short block you have and use the cam kit you have along with a higher stall converter. Or install a mild roller cam in it. This will be very easy to do and fairly cheap cause you can find a set of stock roller lifters and the spider retainer and you can get a stock roller cam re-ground. Plan it right with the heads you have and it'll run good. You do need to get shed of the exhaust rotators and put better springs on it and check to make sure the lift doesn't cause interference with the retainers/valve guides. If you want to upgrade the heads look into a set of RHS or Engine Quest heads. You can buy them in the small valve version really cheap. If you find it is a 318 and want more you can look for a 360 to replace it with. The cam you have will do nicely in a mild 360.
 
dustermaniac said:
So is the torque convertor I currently have not good enough?
Click to expand...

Sorry Tom I overlooked that you have a 2500 converter. If it's a 318 it will work ok, but a looser one would be better. If it's a 360 its fine.

I also just noticed you asked about advancing the cam. I believe that cam should have 4 degrees of advance ground into it. That will do you ok. I'd highly suggest degreeing it to make sure it's where it's supposed to be which is 106 ICL.
 
Great weekend to put the engine back together!!! With the 100 degree heat and the sunshine it will be a scorcher but I have already been at it since 7:30 A.M. Hopefully I will have her up and running by the 4th!!!!!!
 

Attachments

  • Jul02_003.jpg
    49.2 KB · Views: 150
  • Jul02_002.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 124
If you look on the block directly under the driver side head there should be some numbers. The first set should be ci's. If you look at the pic you can see it here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top