Temp and Gas gauge repair

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cuda65vpt

cuda65vpt
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I am doing the gauge repair that I found on the evbc website, but I am unclear on one of the steps. Has anyone done this that could give me some advice?
 
from start to finish. I didn't want to rip the clip off the post a so I just soldered the wire to it.

67seats 005 (Small).jpg


67seats 006 (Small).jpg


67seats 007 (Small).jpg


67seats 008 (Small).jpg
 
Wow, looks very similar.;) That's my article.

My only concerns with how that looks are:
First, make sure you're never going to contact the hot leads with the circuit board. I put electrical tape under the wires to make sure they didn't hit the bottom. And make sure the IC pins aren't going to contact each other either.

Second, is that clip really well connected to the board/post? Mine had broken on its own, so I have no clue as to how secure it was when it was intact. Should work fine if it's solidly on there.

Third, have you isolated the internal voltage regulator? I mean the one inside the fuel gauge. If it's still in action, your probably going to get some funky results.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Or buy a designed, tested, and proven package unit at www.DEMonIVR.com
41 units sold in first year (includes 13 modified rallye fuel gauges).
Not one field failure yet :)
 
Third, have you isolated the internal voltage regulator? I mean the one inside the fuel gauge. If it's still in action, your probably going to get some funky results.

Let me know if you have any other questions.


How do you do that?
 
Or buy a designed, tested, and proven package unit at www.DEMonIVR.com
41 units sold in first year (includes 13 modified rallye fuel gauges).
Not one field failure yet :)

Got a pic of one hooked up on a 65 A-body? I would like to see how simple yours is verses home made.
 
How do you do that?
you can do it a couple of different ways. dhowlan's solution was to place a piece of heatshrink over the stud and a neoprene washer to keep the stud form coming into contact with the circuit board. Here is a link to his article. http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/gauge-convert.htm

Since my stud was centered perfectly in the hole I just installed two nuts up high on the stud.
 
I don't like to disrespect other peoples work. Lets call the following statements education.
The heatsink shown in those pictures is pretty much worthless in that configuration. The heat created by the regulater is directly behind the black area where its ID markings are. IF you were to open and examine any piece of electronics in you home you would find the entire flat backside of a regulater fastened to the flat side of the heatsink along with heatsink compound or silpad. No bent legs will be found either.
My younger brother has been with Bosch for 23 years. Head of field failure annalisis at their local antilock brake processor plant. He made sure my unit would not have field failures. A full year of redesigning and testing to satisfy both of us.
But hey if what you have there works and satisfies you... happy moparing :)
 
That's a good point. I hadn't noticed that the heat sink is above the regulator in that picture. It's certainly not obvious in the pictures on the EVBC. The regulator should be flat on the circuit board and the heat sink should sit on top of the mounting pad. The heat sink is designed to be used with that chip, the mod on top is just to fit the big screw that goes into the circuit board. It's not worthless even flipped. Heat will be dissipated, just not as well as if it is the other way round.

RedFish, it's nice that you've designed such a nice unit. But, it's kind of like Obama attacking Palin. Your unit is 6x the cost of the DIY. It should be better. I have no doubt it is. Plug and play is a great thing. It's 50/50 as to whether I would have gone that route when I installed mine. Having said that, some people are Sony people, some people are Heathkit people. Either unit will work, possibly longer than the gauges. It just depends on what you want. You must like tinkering or you wouldn't have made one yourself. :-D
 
If you mean the heat sink, it should be on top of the IC chip. But, that wouldn't make it fail right off. IF there was too much heat, eventually, the chip would fail. Is that what you mean?
 
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