Temperature Control Switch

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flashsuperstar

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Wiring for the temperature control switch has 2 dark blue wires attaching to it. One wire goes from the AC/Heater vacuum switch to the temperature control switch and the other goes from the temperature control switch to low pressure switch/air compressor. There is also a light green wire from the AC/Heater vacuum switch to the fuse block. Does anybody know if both wires on the temperature control switch are energized all the time or is one energized all the time and the temperature control cable allows the other wire to power up? How does this work? Any help is appreciated. 1972 Plymouth Scamp, factory air.
 
Dark blue wire to switch from A/C/Heater controls is energized in Max A/C and Normal position only I believe. Temperature control switch then controls power to Magnet clutch (at least on my 68 Dart with factory air). It should not always be energized from the controls, in mine it was also energized in the Off position, but not Heat and Defrost setting.

To correct this in a way that I actually preferred after I thought of it I added a push button switch switch with a micro relay inline on the blue wire from the controls to the evap temp switch so I can turn the compressor on/off if I want air from the vents without running the compressor (like in the rain when I don't want to open the windows). Doing this the evap temp switch still controls the compressor actually cycling but I control if I want it on at all. If I had to do it over again I would have powered my switch and relay directly off the power into the controls so I could also turn the compressor on in the Defrost setting like in modern car to dehumidify the air blowing on the windshield as well.

Downside of this is obviously I could forget and leave the compressor running when I don't want it too, but the switch is illuminated and it's pretty obvious when the compressor is running. Obviously everything powers down when the ignition is off so no danger of draining the battery.
 
Dark blue wire to switch from A/C/Heater controls is energized in Max A/C and Normal position only I believe. Temperature control switch then controls power to Magnet clutch (at least on my 68 Dart with factory air). It should not always be energized from the controls, in mine it was also energized in the Off position, but not Heat and Defrost setting.

To correct this in a way that I actually preferred after I thought of it I added a push button switch switch with a micro relay inline on the blue wire from the controls to the evap temp switch so I can turn the compressor on/off if I want air from the vents without running the compressor (like in the rain when I don't want to open the windows). Doing this the evap temp switch still controls the compressor actually cycling but I control if I want it on at all. If I had to do it over again I would have powered my switch and relay directly off the power into the controls so I could also turn the compressor on in the Defrost setting like in modern car to dehumidify the air blowing on the windshield as well.

Downside of this is obviously I could forget and leave the compressor running when I don't want it too, but the switch is illuminated and it's pretty obvious when the compressor is running. Obviously everything powers down when the ignition is off so no danger of draining the battery.
That sounds like what I will do, however doesn't the Defrost button work by providing warm air to the windshield as you currently have your switch setup right now?
 
That sounds like what I will do, however doesn't the Defrost button work by providing warm air to the windshield as you currently have your switch setup right now?
It does, however it doesn't have to be warm air, can still be controlled with the slider, and would just like to have the option of running the compressor in defrost mode. Modern cars all do as far as I know, and dehumidifying the air blowing on the windshield is helpful when you need the defrost on hot/humid days like in a rainstorm for example.

I definitely suggest adding a relay so all the power isn't run through the switch, modern switches aren't built to have full load run through them, and quite frankly it was never the best idea in my opinion, but it's what they all did back when these cars were built.
 
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