[Found!] Temperature gauge

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kaytbugsdad

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Looking for a working temperature gauge for my 1975 Dart Swinger....... I tested the gauge (grounded lead directly to ground, needle doesn't move), but all other gauges are working fine...... Let me know what you have (price with shipping to 95632)!!! Thanks!!!!
 
If you can't locate a good used one, you might want to consider having yours rebuilt. There are a few good rebuilders in the Bay Area
 
Another fault is possible. The later models have a white engine harness connector in the engine bay. Failed connections have been found there.
Next... check that this gauge is still tight to the inst' panel circuit board. Its not unheard of for the speedy nuts that make the connection to get loose.
The thing is... A water temperature gauge has the very least duty cycle so they should live virtually forever.
In all my experience I have seen only 3 or 4 temp' gauges that were totally fried. No doubt that a serious fault such as shorted to ground for extended period caused it. Yep, chit happens. I suppose that purple wire was pinched under a slant 6 valve cover at least a hunert times. I assume that in most cases this mistake was caught and corrected before the gauge was killed.
Bottom line, be sure you need another before buying another.
 
I pulled the gauge out of the cluster, and applied battery voltage to the positive side and went to a direct ground with the other side... No movement at all. I also ran a new wire from the sending unit (new) to the gauge cluster with no change at all......
 
I pulled the gauge out of the cluster, and applied battery voltage to the positive side and went to a direct ground with the other side... No movement at all. I also ran a new wire from the sending unit (new) to the gauge cluster with no change at all......
I see. The way I read it, you had only attached the sender lead at the engine directly to ground ( that's what most owners do ). I wont ask what battery or voltage you applied since anything over 3 volts would have moved the needle. A good 12 volt battery would have let the smoke out LOL
Good luck with it.
 
I have a tester I built many years ago that uses a 9 volt battery...... Plenty of voltage for testing, but not enough amperage to fry anything......
 
I've got a couple of later a-body temp' gauges here. I don't know they're correct for 75 model panel though. I haven't tested them either. If you can provide a pic of yours, I might be able to hook you up.
 
I've got a couple of later a-body temp' gauges here. I don't know they're correct for 75 model panel though. I haven't tested them either. If you can provide a pic of yours, I might be able to hook you up.

71-76 Dart and Duster should be all the same and look like this.
If it comes down to it I have the working one that came out of my 73 Dart.
Mine is in a lot better condition than this one though.

temp.jpg
 
Consider using regular nuts on the gauge. Gives alot more surface area on the threads. I also wire wheeled the threads, and mine worked. I think some kind of corrrosion on the threads.
 
Clean the rust off the posts threads. Try a standard 10-24 hex nut on there but don't force it or you could break the fiber board that the post is crimped into. It is pizz poor weak. That's why they used a weak nut. Seems there was very little quality control in the making of those posts. I've ran across a few that a real nut would not go on. I guess they knew the POS speedy nut would fit a less than perfect thread.
 
I drilled the two small rivets out yesterday to remove the gauge face and found the wire that moves the needle was gone!!!!! Kinda explains why it wouldn't move...... not burnt at all, but was a little rusty.....
 
That is a extremely fragile design. A very light weight needle is suspended between 2 hooks. A good coat of needle paint can change the calibration.
 
Thank you everybody for the responses....... Got one from a forum member coming. Should be here sometime next week!!!!
 
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