TF727 part throttle shift points

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prorac1

prorac1

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just got Jason’s car on the road for shakedown runs.

Everything went very well.

But, the part throttle shift points are a little high.

Here’s the rundown on the combo.

1983 318, 214/224, 444/466, 104 installed intake centerline camshaft. Holley street dominator intake with 390 Holley vac secondary carb.

Stock converter

1972 TF727 with TF2 kit installed. 4.2 kickdown lever.

Cable style kickdown installed and set up properly matching arc of carb lever to kickdown lever, and adjusted to give full pull at full throttle.

Part throttle up shifts were way to high. But the kickdown seemed to work fine.

I kept letting out the TV cable adjustment and the shift RPM dropped to where it’s better, but still to high IMHO, but now it doesn’t kick down. Lol.

What other ways are there to drop part throttle shift RPM?

Currently it shifts 1-2 at 2200 rpm, which is fine. But it shifts 2-3 at 3200 which is a little high I believe.

Here’s a video. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Eric.

 
Too much tranny pressure. Shorten the rod at the carb. Adjust rod to achieve proper shift points.
 
Murray said:
Too much tranny pressure. Shorten the rod at the carb. Adjust rod to achieve proper shift points.
Click to expand...

So far that’s what I’ve been doing.

But I ran out of cable. Lol

And I got it lower, but not low enough, and now kickdown function is getting compromised.

That’s why I was wondering if there was any other ways.
 
What speed's is it shifting at.
I thought there were part and full throttle speeds in the FSM
 
Dana67Dart said:
What speed's is it shifting at.
I thought there were part and full throttle speeds in the FSM
Click to expand...

Good question. Lol.

We’re running a 3.73 rear gear with a 28” tire. So I’m not sure that factory shift point MPH range would apply?

Thanks. Eric
 
You could convert the factory speeds to engine rpm and see how they compare
 
1-2 and 2-3 rpm should be a lot closer to each other than that, my friend bought a trans and 1-2 shift was fine but 2-3 shift was at about 4000 rpm and we found that the direct clutch seal rolled over when assembled, I'm not saying that is what is wrong but if nothing else fixes it look at that.
 
I would check the pressures, then report back. I suspect the line pressure is to high. What is the front band set at. How many springs in the front servo. How many springs in the front drum. What clearance is in the front drum and how many clutches and steels. How big of holes did u drill in the separator plate? Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
I would check the pressures, then report back. I suspect the line pressure is to high. What is the front band set at. How many springs in the front servo. How many springs in the front drum. What clearance is in the front drum and how many clutches and steels. How big of holes did u drill in the separator plate? Kim
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We set the front band according to the TF2 instructions. I don’t remember off the top of my head.

The servo is an upgraded unit. I believe the stock spring. I’ll have to read my transmission notes again.

We did upgrade the amount of springs in the drum. But didn’t go overboard. I believe it was 12 springs.

And we went mild with the shift kit because of the stock converter. We didn’t want to harsh of shifts.

I believe it has a 4.2 kick down arm also

I’ll have to check my notes and get back.

Thanks. Eric
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Sometimes you have to give the kd its own return spring.
Click to expand...

We played around with that, but it doesn’t seem to be a problem. Shift points decreased as we backed off the cable.

But I don’t think that’s the proper way to fix this issue. But I definitely think we have high line pressure. I just have to look back at my notes from the rebuild and figure out what we can change to drop the line pressure a little bit. I will be ordering gauges soon I think. LOL
 
What did u use for the line pressure adjustment? As in zero turns from the plate or u went to 6 turns or somewhere in between? Did it Gsve a line pressure limit ball and did u drill the hole there if it did? Did u adjust the manual valve? What year vb and tranny? Post some pics. Thanks. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
What did u use for the line pressure adjustment? As in zero turns from the plate or u went to 6 turns or somewhere in between? Did it Gsve a line pressure limit ball and did u drill the hole there if it did? Did u adjust the manual valve? What year vb and tranny? Post some pics. Thanks. Kim
Click to expand...

I will look that information up tonight or tomorrow and get back to you with the answers.

It was almost 2 years ago so I can’t do it off the top of my head. LOL.

Thank you again very much for the help.

I have also read that adjusting the kickdown after installing Tf2 kit is different because of the way the kit as you increase line pressure. But first I have to get the answers to your questions and make sure we didn’t do something wrong when installing the valve body kit
 
oldkimmer said:
What did u use for the line pressure adjustment? As in zero turns from the plate or u went to 6 turns or somewhere in between? Did it Gsve a line pressure limit ball and did u drill the hole there if it did? Did u adjust the manual valve? What year vb and tranny? Post some pics. Thanks. Kim
Click to expand...

I can tell you this though. We did go specifically by the trans go instructions when setting everything up. Triple checking as we went.
 
TF2s sometimes do that. And, to fix the spread between WOT 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, A&A has a spring that is reported to help.
 
Trans go TF-2 is the only kit I have used and I have never had that happen
 
I think I found what the problem is.

The arc between the Holley carb and the factory TV lever is off.

We need to drill a new hole closer to the pivot point to match the throw of the Holley carb.

I had played with the geometry before, but attempted to modify it at the carb side, and I obviously did it wrong. Lol.

I’m planing on trying this tomorrow or Wednesday and will report back with results.

But from what I’m reading it’s exactly what’s causing our symptoms.
 
oldkimmer said:
Post a pic of ur carb brackets please. Kim
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5AEA4F3F-1761-472A-8896-9300E20FF1D7.png
 
I gotta say, I watched the video and I liked how it shifts. I would have let it alone. lol
 
I never liked the cables My friend used it and had nothing but problems with it.
 
oldkimmer said:
Ok, u need the Chrysler throttle lever adaptor to put the linkage in the proper position. Holley adaptor # 20-7. Kim
Click to expand...

Ok. I looked at that one, but I thought it extended the bracket out not down?

But it was hard to tell from a picture.

That would solve the problem though if it fix extend it down.

Thank you very much Kimmer
 
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