The 1947 Dodge Build

-
Owner #1 painted the dash and all the window trim sometime in 2002 according to the date on the pics I have. I was under the impression that at least the dash and possibly the metal trim around the windows were faux woodgrained on the upgraded models of that era. I had a 50 Coronet (the top of the line model in 50) that had a beautiful woodgrained dash and window trim. I was looking at the back side of the clock as it will need to eventually come out to be converted to 12 volt with modern internals and yes, there was an area that didn't get painted. Nice looking faux woodgraining! Might have to refinish the dash back to original!
IMG_7470.JPG
 
Continuing the evaluation I started of the floor pans, the rear sill plates are pretty rusty and do have holes in them. View attachment 1715086996
They had built-in pegs on them that were installed in rubber plugs in the floor. I've seen similar in other makes of cars during my time at a restoration shop but made of hard rubber.
View attachment 1715087001

Rubber receivers in the floor
View attachment 1715087003

The fronts had them as well and were MIA but also had aluminum trim you could see when opening the front doors. It appears original but in the last 70 years, who knows. I've got some 65 Dart sill trim that if shortened, might work. We'll see after the complete floor has been replaced!View attachment 1715087002

Typical older cars. Well worth the time! I remember when I was doing my 38 Dodge! My running boards was toast. I bought replacement from Mexico. 25 years ago. Miss that car!
 
The transmission cover is supposed to be bolted to the floor in 8 - 10 places and sealed to the floor with some kind of seal. It was held down by just two bolts - one at the top middle and the other at the bottom middle. It, like the rest of the floor is going to need repair or if one could be found (not likely) - replacement. More sheet metal work! I will have to decide to permanently install it or leave it removeable.
IMG_7475.JPG


Once it's removed, there's great access to the transmission, bellhousing, clutch linkage and single master cylinder. A 500/518 would easily fit in there! I suspect they used a rubber floor mat as carpeting would be a pain to remove when the transmission cover needed to be removed.
IMG_7474.JPG
 
Last edited:
The transmission cover is supposed to be bolted to the floor in 8 - 10 places and sealed to the floor with some kind of seal. It was held down by just two bolts - one at the top middle and the other at the bottom middle. It, like the rest of the floor is going to need repair or if one could be found (not likely) - replacement. More sheet metal work! I will have to decide to permanently install it or leave it removeable.View attachment 1715087551

Once it's removed, there's great access to the transmission, bellhousing, clutch linkage and single master cylinder. I suspect they used a rubber floor mat as carpeting would be a pain to remove when the transmission cover needed to be removed.
View attachment 1715087553
My 38 Dodge had rubber floor carpet.
 
Come to think of it, my 50 Coronet had a rubber mat in the front
When I was working on my 38 Dodge I bought several items from Andy Bernbaum. He had tons of stuff. I know years ago he sold his Company but the new owners is doing the same business. Their website is www.oldmopar.com

I found some stuff last night that might interest you! I will drop you a picture later on today.
 
Cool project. I have pretty much completed work on a 48 Plymouth 2 door sedan and have logged about 4000 miles on it so far. I used a 8 3/4 from a 65 C body and welded on a 91 S10 front stub. It is powered by a 383 and a truck 4 speed... I built it from parts I had laying around to keep costs down. It is a rusty rat rod but a joy to drive. Your car is in much better shape than mine when I started. I recommend the s10 front end as it has good disk brakes and power steering and is the correct width, you have to run a rear sump oil pan. I used a steering column from a 74 dodge truck and kept the original pedals by running a rod through the original master cylinder to a modern one bolted on behind it. I hope you have as much fun as I did on your build.
P.S. I bought lots of rubber stuff from Andy Bernbaum and everything they sent me worked great
 
Cool project. I have pretty much completed work on a 48 Plymouth 2 door sedan and have logged about 4000 miles on it so far. I used a 8 3/4 from a 65 C body and welded on a 91 S10 front stub. It is powered by a 383 and a truck 4 speed... I built it from parts I had laying around to keep costs down. It is a rusty rat rod but a joy to drive. Your car is in much better shape than mine when I started. I recommend the s10 front end as it has good disk brakes and power steering and is the correct width, you have to run a rear sump oil pan. I used a steering column from a 74 dodge truck and kept the original pedals by running a rod through the original master cylinder to a modern one bolted on behind it. I hope you have as much fun as I did on your build.
P.S. I bought lots of rubber stuff from Andy Bernbaum and everything they sent me worked great

Thanks for the information! I've found that a 71-74 B Body 8.75/8.25 is a bolt-in (perch width same as the spring width on the 47). Thanks for the tip on the S10 front clip! Not sure if it would work since my understanding is the 41-47 frame was wider than other years with a 48 being the most narrow. I'm researching whether a F/M/J K Frame/suspension/brake assembly can be retrofitted to the frame. I thought it interesting about how you used a modern master cylinder. I am hoping to get away from having to check the brake fluid through an access hole in the floor, so I need to do more research on this. I have a J Body as well as a late 70's truck tilt column - one of them is is likely to be used. I'd love to see some pictures of your 48 including the mods you have mentioned.
 
What is new is also old! A lot of new cars have the push button to start and something similar is available through the aftermarket. It's nothing new- the 47 featured this as well! Turn the ignition key to On and push the starter button to engage the starter. I would like to retain this feature during the rewire of the car.

IMG_7479.JPG
 
Last edited:
I still have to check the brake fluid under the floor, but I made a hinged door so its real easy. I had to replace pretty much the entire floor pan. I also welded the fenders to the hood and made the front clip hinge forward, a wing nut on the bottom of each fender holds everything down. A B-body rear end would have fit better due to being a little narrower, but I had this one laying there. I have never posted pics on the internet, but I will try to figure it out.
 
I had to replace pretty much the entire floor pan.

I will join the "replace the floor pan" crowd as well!

I started removing the driver's side floor pan "repair" done by Owner #1 in 2002. That repair consisted of screwing a flat piece of 20 gauge to the original, rusty and numerous holes floor pan.
IMG_7478.JPG

Driver's original front pan under the "repair" is just as bad as the rears (see previous pics)! I expect the passenger side front repair will be just as bad. Oh well, it's just sheet metal with a few stiffening ribs!
IMG_7480.JPG


EDIT: started to remove the "repair" on the passenger front side. WTF! Some of it was brazed to the original floor and parts of it were screwed in place! No cut off wheels so gotta go get some.
 
Last edited:
sweet instrument panel - cool and unique car

Thanks! I would like to convert the ammeter to a voltmeter with a matching face as the other minor gauges and make the temp gauge ("HEAT") scale something like 100 to at least 240. Anyone know where this could be done?
 
Last edited:
I have to wait until Tuesday before I can go buy a 4' x 8' sheet of 18 or 20 gauge. So being bored today, I pulled my set of hi-back truck buckets out of storage just to see how they would fit. Not bad! I will probably end up using these mainly because they have the built in shoulder belt and I have them.
IMG_7487.JPG


HOWEVER, I have a set of 66/67 Charger buckets that would more resemble the original front seat back height. I also have the matching fold down rear individual seats and new dark blue 67 Charger upholstery for all 4 seats. Wonder if those rear seats could be fitted in the 47? The bad part would be, I would loose my built in shoulder belt on the front that the hi backs have.

For those following this build, would you vote for the hi back truck seats or the Charger seats if a poll could be added?
 
Last edited:
Those highbacks would look way out of place in a car that old, imo. The PO who owned my 52 chevyized, the thing threw a 80`s bench in there and it wound up in the scrapyard along with the chevy frame and steering column. Low backs would look much better, I used and had redone a set of 69 cuda seats in mine saved for my 67. I built up a base to get it at a proper height. Your call.
 
If you're asking for opinions, here's mine. :)

From a safety viewpoint, anything with a seat belt is good, especially in a car with a mighty stiff frame like that Dodge. However, they would need to be re-upholstered or covered somehow to match the car, imo.

From an aesthetic viewpoint, don't you think a bench would look best? Then you can send those charger buckets to me. :D
 
Yes, the gas pedal looks the same. The center emblem is the same as the dash emblem (which is pretty small).

IMG_7489.JPG

The emblem on the right - I do not know what it's for. Here is the emblem on the front bezel. I need find s NOS bezel!
IMG_7490.JPG


and the emblem on the trunk - ditto for finding a NOS bezel - good luck on finding either!
IMG_7491.JPG
 
Last edited:
Yes, the gas pedal is the same. The center emblem is the same as the dash emblem (which is pretty small).

View attachment 1715089051
The emblem on the right - I do not know what it's for. Here is the emblem on the front bezel. I need find s NOS bezel!View attachment 1715089052

and the emblem on the trunk - ditto for finding a NOS bezel - good luck on finding either!View attachment 1715089054
I Think I have the trunk emblem in NOS condition. I'll search for it tomorrow. I crashing soon due to early wake up tomorrow and heading down to Uppsala for a meeting with the doctor!
 
Those highbacks would look way out of place in a car that old, imo.

I tend to agree the hi backs look too modern compared with the vintage of the car! The best thing about them is the built in shoulder/seat belt!

Low backs would look much better, I used and had redone a set of 69 cuda seats in mine saved for my 67. I built up a base to get it at a proper height. Your call.

I saw the picture of the base you built - definitely a consideration if I use the low back 66/67 Charger seats (other than the upholstery, they are the same as 66/67 A Bodies).

If you're asking for opinions, here's mine. :)

From a safety viewpoint, anything with a seat belt is good, especially in a car with a mighty stiff frame like that Dodge. However, they would need to be re-upholstered or covered somehow to match the car, imo.

I will agree on the safety aspect! If I used the hi backs, I'd leave the upholstery as is, do the rear seat (when I find something suitable) and door panels in similar material and call it good!

From an aesthetic viewpoint, don't you think a bench would look best? Then you can send those charger buckets to me. :D

You're probably right on the aesthetics, but being retired and poor as well, I've got to use what I have on hand lol! Those Charger/A Body buckets would cost a small fortune to send to you, so I might as well use them lol!

HOWEVER, I have a set of 66/67 Charger buckets that would more resemble the original front seat back height.

Here is the Charger buckets sort of fitted in the 47.
IMG_7488.JPG

As mopar head mentioned, I'd need to fabricate some kind of platform
to raise the seats to the height of the original seat. I have new foam and 67 Charger upholstery in dark blue for the seats, so that's a huge, no cost plus! To fill the space between the seats, I could use the matching buddy seat (which I have). I like the look - I'll use the Charger seats and upholstery. Fitting regular seat belts is no problem; I'll look into a shoulder belt.
 
I Think I have the trunk emblem in NOS condition. I'll search for it tomorrow. I crashing soon due to early wake up tomorrow and heading down to Uppsala for a meeting with the doctor!
I hope it's nothing serious, Ulf. Have a safe ride!
 
-
Back
Top