pacuda59
pacuda59
The dash looks great!
Try YouTube for the Dakota front end swap, you might just find something.
Try YouTube for the Dakota front end swap, you might just find something.
The 1947 Dodge Build
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
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Who would have thought that REM made exact reproduction glove boxes for 46-48 Dodges? Looks and feels like a quality piece!
Glove box brightwork all masked in prep for clear. Gonna have to make sure it, the dash and surrounding areas are warm enough to shoot the clear. Tough when it gets cold!
Got the clear on today and these Pics just don’t do the parts justice! My helper (the wife) was Just looking at the dash and said it’s still wet! I touched an inconspicuous area and told her - Nope! It’s dry! Looks wet and like a sheet of glass!
No, the pic of the glovebox lid is not the same as the one from the previous post!
I do have a couple of imperfections in the clear that might come out with wetsanding and hand buffing. I’ll make a final decision once all the bright work and Speedhut gauges gets installed.
No, the pic of the glovebox lid is not the same as the one from the previous post!
I do have a couple of imperfections in the clear that might come out with wetsanding and hand buffing. I’ll make a final decision once all the bright work and Speedhut gauges gets installed.
Got the glove box lid unmasked and am pretty pleased with the results. Can I improve it a bit? If I repaint the black in the DODGE and the red in the FLUID DRIVE, it should look a bit more finished. Before pic
Sooooo, here it is with the red done but not yet cleaned from around the recessed letters:
And both red and black:
And the red I’m using - Chrysler Red of course!
Sooooo, here it is with the red done but not yet cleaned from around the recessed letters:
And both red and black:
And the red I’m using - Chrysler Red of course!
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I decided to wetsand the top of the dash as I was not happy with the imperfections. If it gets warm enough today, I hope to spray a couple coats of clear. Would like to assemble it tomorrow.
So, trying to make a little more progress elsewhere, I decided to start on the bumper guard chevrons to paint them red. The bumper guard chevrons and where it says FLUID DRIVE on the rear bumper are commonly painted red. A before picture:
I figured the paint won’t stick to the chrome too well, so I roughed the chrome up a bit by hand with a small grinding wheel and sandpaper roll from my Dremel kit. So, 2 guards done, 2 to go.
I’m not looking forward to preparing the rear bumper since the bumper prep, painting and clear coat application is all done by hand.
All 4 guards done! Time to get started in the rear bumper that says FLUID DRIVE
Well, the dash is about 95% done - got the final coat of clear sprayed, all the brightwork is installed and gauges and clock installed. Yet to do is make a harness to connect all the switches in the center to an eventual dash harness, a specialized harness to connect the lighting and gauge pointers to the light and panel dimmer switches, and hot wire harness for the clock and lighter - wiring is fun!
Here’s the whole dash - not a lot of detail can be seen since I had to stand on the stairs to get the whole dash in the picture.
And the business end of the dash - Speedhut 4 in 1 gauge with individual wiring harnesses provided for oil pressure, water temp and even to the gas tank. The voltmeter gets its power when the ignition is on. The other Speedhut gauge is a 120MPH GPS speedometer and 8000RPM tach. In between them in the middle is the shift quadrant LEDs powered by a Dakota Digital module. In the middle at the top you can see an empty hole - thinking about an oil pressure idiot light, or ????? Any suggestions?
EDIT: there are 5 individual pieces of factory brightwork that makes up the complete bezel.
And one heavy weight-wise center section. Top left switch is from a 56 Chrysler that controls the dash lights, in the middle under the emblem is the OEM 47 map light, to it’s right is also a 56 Chrysler switch to control both the Map light and dome light. On the bottom left is a 56 Chrysler headlight switch (which is a rotary switch rather than a pull switch), then a 66 Chrysler switch originally for a rear defroster but I’m using it as a 2 speed wiper switch, then an original 47 starter button I’m using for the windshield washer button. In the middle is a brake warning light from my old 69 A108, then a switch from a 53 Dodge for a blower motor, then another 66 Chrysler rear defroster switch which is exactly what I’ll use it for and finally a 56 Chrysler lighter. The factory radio goes in the empty hole.
The glove box lid holds the clock. It was a Speedhut blank gauge face that I had a company convert to an electronic clock (gives the wife something to look at lol!)
And here is the top of the dash all woodgrained. I have no idea of what wood grain it resembles - anyone care to venture a guess. My Mopar buddy said it looks like some kind of exotic Asian wood. I did do a couple of modifications to the top of the dash- eliminated the original wiper switch which was right in the middle and the original turn signal/hi beam indicator which was right in front of the speedometer.
Here’s the whole dash - not a lot of detail can be seen since I had to stand on the stairs to get the whole dash in the picture.
And the business end of the dash - Speedhut 4 in 1 gauge with individual wiring harnesses provided for oil pressure, water temp and even to the gas tank. The voltmeter gets its power when the ignition is on. The other Speedhut gauge is a 120MPH GPS speedometer and 8000RPM tach. In between them in the middle is the shift quadrant LEDs powered by a Dakota Digital module. In the middle at the top you can see an empty hole - thinking about an oil pressure idiot light, or ????? Any suggestions?
EDIT: there are 5 individual pieces of factory brightwork that makes up the complete bezel.
And one heavy weight-wise center section. Top left switch is from a 56 Chrysler that controls the dash lights, in the middle under the emblem is the OEM 47 map light, to it’s right is also a 56 Chrysler switch to control both the Map light and dome light. On the bottom left is a 56 Chrysler headlight switch (which is a rotary switch rather than a pull switch), then a 66 Chrysler switch originally for a rear defroster but I’m using it as a 2 speed wiper switch, then an original 47 starter button I’m using for the windshield washer button. In the middle is a brake warning light from my old 69 A108, then a switch from a 53 Dodge for a blower motor, then another 66 Chrysler rear defroster switch which is exactly what I’ll use it for and finally a 56 Chrysler lighter. The factory radio goes in the empty hole.
The glove box lid holds the clock. It was a Speedhut blank gauge face that I had a company convert to an electronic clock (gives the wife something to look at lol!)
And here is the top of the dash all woodgrained. I have no idea of what wood grain it resembles - anyone care to venture a guess. My Mopar buddy said it looks like some kind of exotic Asian wood. I did do a couple of modifications to the top of the dash- eliminated the original wiper switch which was right in the middle and the original turn signal/hi beam indicator which was right in front of the speedometer.
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carfreak6970
Well-Known Member
Well for that empty spot inbetween your gauges would probably be a good place for a high beam indicator light? loving the progress!
Thanks for the idea and following along as well. The speedometer gauge has the turn signals and high beam indicator. Within the 4 in 1 gauge the oil pressure gauge can be set for both a high and low warning indicator, same with the water temperature as well as a low fuel indicator all user adjustable. On My wife’s Caravan a green indicator comes on when the headlights are on; That might be a possibility as well so as to not make the spot redundant to something that’s already built in.
So I go to open the glove box door and the push knob won’t push in to release the latch! Nope, it’s not locked either! How dare it quit After 72 years of service! Luckily eBay has a bunch of NORS and better yet, NOS Chrysler branded locks for less than $30 - problem solved!
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I went to install it a few days ago, and it doesn’t fit! It appears at least one or two mounting holes are not correct. It’s constructed from 2 pieces of the HD cardboard that’s used to construct a glove box. So I pulled all the staples and began matching mounting holes to those in the dash. All three of the side vertical holes lined up perfectly; only one of the mounting holes at the top did. I screwed the 2 sections to the dash and was able to pull it all together but with no staple gun, I ended up using small machine screws and nuts to hold it all together.
While waiting on a fuse panel I bought through Del City, I decided to disassemble the factory heater box yesterday. Several of the OEM screws just wouldn’t budge, so out with the 36 grit sandpaper on the rolox to remove the screw heads. So hopefully the 73 year old heater core wasn’t going to leak. No leaks! I spent at least 30 minutes flushing it out and did get a bunch of crap out of it till the water ran clear. Looks like it was made of brass.
I noticed that the 6 volt motor was virtually the same size as a junk A Body 12 volt heater motor I have. Rock Auto has them for about $29 so I’ve got one on order. No need of a voltage reducer for the heater blower. I’ll need to media blast the case and make it look decent.
I noticed that the 6 volt motor was virtually the same size as a junk A Body 12 volt heater motor I have. Rock Auto has them for about $29 so I’ve got one on order. No need of a voltage reducer for the heater blower. I’ll need to media blast the case and make it look decent.
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Hi Don. Looking at your 47 Heater Core.....would you say they "Dont make them like that anymore?" Wow, 73 years old, and no leaks. Remarkable, for certain!!! Do you get any rest? Your S.D. and your 47 hobbies must take up most of your spare time. A party for sure when both are done. I would even fly out for that get-together. Fun Mopar celebration it would be. Best. JJ
Back when they made real parts and cars!!!!
Here’s what the heater case all disassembled looks like:
I will need to replace the 2 mounting studs that hold the upper part of the heater box to the firewall(at the top of those L-Shaped brackets near the heater core nipples).
I received the 12 volt heater blower motor from Rock Auto the other day and it’s the exact same size as the OEM 6 volt motor.
Even the adapter bolts right on. A 2nd adapter (seen just above the motor) bolts to the adapter now on the motor.
The original heater was just a single speed; I wanted at least a 2 speed. To accomplish this I am adding the resistor from a junk housing to the heater box.
I will swap out the 54 Dodge heater switch I was going to use to one from a pre-65 Valiant or maybe from an early van that Jerry @sgrip65 gave to me at the Nationals - it will be a match for the rest of the lower knobs plus a 65 heater harness mounts into both the switch and resister - win win!
I will need to replace the 2 mounting studs that hold the upper part of the heater box to the firewall(at the top of those L-Shaped brackets near the heater core nipples).
I received the 12 volt heater blower motor from Rock Auto the other day and it’s the exact same size as the OEM 6 volt motor.
Even the adapter bolts right on. A 2nd adapter (seen just above the motor) bolts to the adapter now on the motor.
The original heater was just a single speed; I wanted at least a 2 speed. To accomplish this I am adding the resistor from a junk housing to the heater box.
I will swap out the 54 Dodge heater switch I was going to use to one from a pre-65 Valiant or maybe from an early van that Jerry @sgrip65 gave to me at the Nationals - it will be a match for the rest of the lower knobs plus a 65 heater harness mounts into both the switch and resister - win win!
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Don. Probably no fiberglass or plastic on any of those 47 heater boxes or parts. Will surely be exciting to see that one complete. Did you decide on which engine/drivetrain on the 47? Seems to me that you were toying with the idea of a V6 Dakota or a 340 at one time. Keep up the good work. JJ (sgrip65)
Hi Jerry - the 47 heater box is ALL metal! It looks to have been painted some kind of light to medium brown or brown hammertone.
After a lot of thought the 47 is getting the 70 340 that is ready to be rebuilt mated to a Dakota A500 that Dynamic Converters rebuilt as well as reworking the torque converter for increased stall. 8.75 Rear end is from a 71 Charger which should be a virtual drop in according to the info on the P15/D24 forum. With 3.55 sure grip, acceleration should be good and with the A500’s overdrive, get reasonable decent economy. Still a ways to go on this project - gotta get the 65 finished before tackling the hard stuff on the 47!
After a lot of thought the 47 is getting the 70 340 that is ready to be rebuilt mated to a Dakota A500 that Dynamic Converters rebuilt as well as reworking the torque converter for increased stall. 8.75 Rear end is from a 71 Charger which should be a virtual drop in according to the info on the P15/D24 forum. With 3.55 sure grip, acceleration should be good and with the A500’s overdrive, get reasonable decent economy. Still a ways to go on this project - gotta get the 65 finished before tackling the hard stuff on the 47!
Hi Don. Sounds like the 47 will be the real deal. Nice stuff all the way around. JJ (sgrip65)
It’s been awhile since i updated this thread after getting the dash woodgrained, gauges and switches in place. Since I’m on light duty after my surgery, Time for the fun part - fabricating a new dash harness from scratch. I’m using a pair of fuse panels from Del City - one for stuff that’s hot always; the other for stuff that’s hot in Run or Accessory. Fuses will be accessible from inside the glove compartment. The gauges have their own harnesses so that part is pretty easy!
I am basing the harness on part of a 65 A Body dash harness as I am quite familiar with it in a stock application. The trick is melding it with an 80 J Body ignition switch and turn signal harness as I will be using a J Body column shift tilt column in the 47. I am modifying the 65 Wiring as needed using the same color code wiring where possible with the switches I am using. These are a regular A Body headlight switch, a 2 speed 66 Chrysler rear defroster switch for the stock 2 speed 47 windshield wiper motor, a 47 pushbutton starter switch for with windshield washer pump. A brake system idiot light from a 69 A108 van, another 66 Chrysler rear defroster switch for the rear defroster I’ll be adding. The heater control Switch including blower operation is from a 63 or 64 Valiant so everything should interface fairly easy (I hope!). The lighter will be the easiest to add - a single red wire from the lighter to a fuse in the hot fuse panel.
I don’t think i ever posted all the changes I made on all the knobs of the switches. Originally i was going to use 56 Chrysler knobs on everything. After I decided to use the common 60’s light switch, i found a stalk from a 64 or so that said LIGHTS on it along with a windshield washer knob that said WIPERS so that got changed. I found another matching knob that said REAR DEFROSTER and yet another matching knob that said LIGHTER. And it all tied together as the new heater cable assembly (That says HEATER) matched the rest of the knobs. I like the way it looks so no more changes. I’m still going to keep the panel brightness knob that says PANEL and MAP/DOME light switch.
EDIT: That empty spot just to the left of the rear defrost switch is for the heater switch - just not pictured!
EDIT: That empty spot just to the left of the rear defrost switch is for the heater switch - just not pictured!
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That looks great Don!
Hi Don. Like they said in the 50s, 60s, and, maybe, the 70s, "It ain't cool if the chrome don't shine." Definitely "COOL." Great Stuff. Now that I am in Minnesota, I have to comment with a bit of Deutch....."Wunderbar." Nice all the way around. Keep up the great work for sure. sgrip65
Got all the heater box parts sandblasted and etch primed.
and painted in light brown enamel:
Now it’s time to assemble everything! Installed the heater core and back cover and side covers with new #10 x 1/2 stainless steel screws (same size as original old rusty screws.
And the original “COMFORT MASTER” nameplate for the heater door.
And installed:
New 12 volt blower motor installed:
and blower motor cover installed (which can be seen if one peeks under the dash).
And all of a sudden the heater assembly got pretty heavy!
and painted in light brown enamel:
Now it’s time to assemble everything! Installed the heater core and back cover and side covers with new #10 x 1/2 stainless steel screws (same size as original old rusty screws.
And the original “COMFORT MASTER” nameplate for the heater door.
And installed:
New 12 volt blower motor installed:
and blower motor cover installed (which can be seen if one peeks under the dash).
And all of a sudden the heater assembly got pretty heavy!
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