The Disuster

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Last few days:
1. got all the headlights and tail lights working.. even reverse lights!
2. put a coat of primer on the underside of my floor repair
3. located all the rust on the front left frame rail.. should be repairable.. with the removal of everything...
4. pulled the headliner and am exploring repair options. the rear panel is in rough shape. thinking about cutting it off and replacing it with the piece shown below. Also JB welded some cracks in the interior plastics.
5. I started peeling at the drivers side rear quarter.. HOLY COW! 1/2" of bondo! Whoever did this work was thorough, and also pretty decent at making things look normal when they are not.

I ordered a new piece for the passenger side, but I believe I can repair the drivers side with just a section of steel. Most of the structure is still there.

At this point, I can fix all the little rust and drive the car for a while, but eventually the engine, trans and K member will need to come out. I guess I should save that for last, then I can paint the engine bay!

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cut the whole panel out, put new panel on, save 100 pounds of body filler good grief thats a lot
 
after 10 minutes of driving, it gets as hot as shown in the picture below. It will eventually get hotter if I keep going.. but it takes a while. After driving home from work today it started to spew out of the overflow tube so I know it was getting warm. The lower drivers side of the radiator feels cold compared to the rest of it, granted that corner does not seem in direct flow from top port to bottom. Is it safe to assume it's clogged? or is this normal for these radiators? has anyone had success in cleaning them out?

second picture: these two cars sat next to each other abandoned in a field for over 8 years, now they are together again!

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I do believe the lower corned will be cooler than the upper portion for the radiator. The hot coolant should be passing through the thermostat into the top of the radiator, cooling as it travels down.
Heating up that quick makes me think your thermostat is not opening. Have you inspected it?
 
Large success.. followed by a few failures. Chasing an overheating issue, I discovered the head gasket was not gasketting.. So I spent a couple of hours yesterday getting the head off... EASY!! My last head gasket job was a BMW 323... I went in to this knowing that it had a broken exhaust stud, but I didn't know that the gasket was also blown out. That should seal up real nice when I'm done! I broke one of the long bolts attaching the intake to exhaust manifold, which lead to the decision to pull the manifolds apart... and in doing that, Broke the others as well. this seems common with these manifolds. The unfortunate thing is that trying to drill them out didn't work really well. the casting seems softer than the bolts and caused the bit to wander. My solution will be to weld a stud on top for the middle bolt. then do my best at bolting the outside together with my crooked holes... more to come.

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I had to weld new "studs" onto the exhaust manifold. worked out pretty well.

Got everything back together in no-time flat! This thing runs AMAZING! It must have had a blown headgasket for a long time, because it has never ran this good! It's also nice not having that loud exhaust leak. however, no I can hear that the valve lash needs adjusted.

Also have a new exhaust leak... at the lower manifold gasket.

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more photos for the sake of photos!

had good luck drilling out my broken exhaust stud.. drilled out just enough that it didn't ruin the threads! This never happens for me by the way.

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I bet the parts to fix it were a lot cheaper than bimmer parts too. It looks like your disuster is becoming less of a disuster, and more of a duster.

If it's got an electronic distributor, you should consider installing a GM HEI module and E coil to fire the mopar distributor. Also consider using a denso mini starter off a 3.9, 5.2, or 5.9 magnum series engine. More turning HP more compact.
 
When you get the body work done, I'd scuff it down with a DA sander and 220 grit, tape it off and apply some epoxy primer.
 
When you get the body work done, I'd scuff it down with a DA sander and 220 grit, tape it off and apply some epoxy primer.

that's the plan! I wont be painting this thing completely until I get my new shop up.. sometime next year.
 
Found a warm day before winter arrived. Decided to get the interior back in the car now that the floors are done. Chose to go the saddle blanket seat cover route.. Seats are in good shape, but getting them re-covered is going to cost more than I thought - so it's a project for next year. Got the heater blower motor working, replaced the Heater switches with the one I will be using with my A/C box. My old fan switch didn't work, so now I have the multiple speeds working. Still doesn't blow as hard as I'd like. Still need to get my "new" radio in and replace the speaker.

Also has a stumble when it's cold out. Choke opens too far too fast.

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Well I went ahead and replaced the heater box due to very poor heat and almost no air flow. This past summer I grabbed this HVAC box from a 76 dart sedan at LKQ. Also grabbed a few other neat things from it like a power steering column for when I do that conversion.

I spent the first day getting the heater box in by making a template, and then cutting the necessary holes in the firewall. This is definitely not the professionals method, but it actually worked quite well! Got it positioned about as good as possible. there is still a little bit of a gap on the top round seal, but I also need to fabricate a support bracket to hold that up tighter - at least that's how it was in the Dart I took it from. Day 2 was getting the electrical and vacuum all routed and hooked up.

Not only is this heater core good, but she'll blow the pants off your female passenger now! Surprisingly, all the vacuum diaphragms work! and now it's already for A/C come next spring!

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Now all the holes in the body are bugging me...

Remember the rocker panels I made this past summer - they are working great! My goal is to get the body to be 98% metal, and only a very small amount of filler. So far doing good, although The dent just in front of the passenger rear wheel was a tough one to pull out. I guess old metal doesn't have memory to it like fresh, new steel.
I'm going to take this opportunity to clean up inside the front fender as well, and paint that all black. also applying some seam sealer under where the cowl drain is. All that was pretty messy. Rust converter is my friend!

Tonight I'll hopefully get the rear lower rocker area, and then start to plan out replacing the rear quarter.

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Front corner all cleaned up and seam sealed. I wanted to take care of enough of the rust so I wouldn't have to remove the quarter panel again, but there's a good chance I'll probably have it back off when I do frame repair on the other side.

It will all be going back together for a little bit while I work on another project. The next step is pull the rear bumper and take care of the rear quarters. I decided on buying a complete new quarter for the drivers side after doing this side. It didn't make economical sense to get one for this side as I already had bought a new rear quarter.

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Also, does anyone have a good way of removing the old spray rust-preventative coating?
 
Yikes... I was hoping for some sort of chemical so you can scrape it off!
Don't know about chemical but you can heat it with a torch to soften it than scrape
 
ok... Isolation has been going quite well!

I replaced a lot of metal.. did a lot of shaping.. and used more bondo than I wanted.. but the turnout is almost there! I have a few spots that need some tweaking to get the shadows right. using water to look at reflection and light to look at shading. just glad to have the rear 95% done so I can focus on the rest now!

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