The foundation for a 5.7 Swap

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sobiecam

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Okay guys, I have my Dart and now a 5.7L Hemi from a 06 or 07 Jeep.... What all do I need for the swap... the engine itself needs a new bottom end (tossed a rod through the pan) but what all electronically do i need. I believe I saw an MSD module for these swaps but I'm not sure, I'd like to keep the FI but don't mind a carb swap if necessary
 
Going with a 727 trans for the swap? and personally...I would never put a carb on an engine that already has an engineered FI system on it.
 
i was thinking a keisler 6 speed or an auto from a new charger or in a perfect world the six speed from a new challenger
 
If you do the auto, should be able to use a stock computer...or so I've been told.
 
As far as electronics you've got a number of choices.

Options #1

Use the factory computer with a modified stock wiring harness. Street and Performance (I believe it is the same harness as sold by hot-wire) sells a four wire, wiring harness to install a modern hemi with the factory computer, you can use a Diablo tuner to do some tuning. They need the VIN number in order to remove some of the anti-theft stuff. You'll also need to update your fuel system and install a drive by wire pedal assembly. The harness is between $1000.00 and 1100.00 plus an additional $250.00 to program the factory computer. If you go to their website they have a bunch of hemi install videos, not academy award winners but quite informative.

Option #2

Use a FAST or AEM system with a cable operated throttle body. Both of these systems give you complete control over the fuel and spark. Thus, you can run any cam, any power adder and tune to your hearts content. The AEM system is sold under the Mopar performance. The main benefit is that both of these systems come with complete wiring harnesses, and a known tune that will at least get the motor running. Price 3K to 4K.

Option #3

Use Megasquirt III, a DIY stand alone engine management computer that you can buy pre-built or build it at your kitchen table. (You'll save about $200.00 if you build it yourself.) Megasquirt can now utilize all the factory sensors. You'll need to build your own wiring harness. Gives complete control over fuel and spark. If you spend an extra 200.00 dollars on a wide-band O2 sensor you can utilize "auto-tune" that will do about 90% of the tuning. The big benefit is that you can build yourself a complete Megasquirt ECM and wiring harness for under $1000.00.

Option #4

Install a carb, there are a bunch of carb manifolds out there, including from XV Motorsports, Edelbrock, Indy, and Mopar Performance. These manifolds run about $500.00 MSD makes a stand-alone ignition controller called the MSD 6-Hemi Controller. They run $500.00 + $180.00 for a wiring harness. You can read about it here:

http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/Ignitions/6013.pdf?
terms=88864

Add a holley carb and you're good to go. Total cost about $1500.00.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
wow joe. That's a great post. Seems to have all the info in one place.

to the OP one thing to keep in mid is that if you go with a modern trans there are speed sensors in the wheels that will be needed. And they will require a tone ring to operate correctly. I do not know the details but, it's something you need to know and consider. A factory pcm with trans function disabled seems to be the easiesy and cheapest way to go. That or carb, if you don't have the electronics.
 
so far i like option two with a keisler lol, I have an engine test stand and was wondering if there's any way to rig it up on that first...
 
The choice was between the FAST XFI 2.0 and the Megasquirt 3x for me. The two systems nearly match each other in features, while the FAST XFI cost ~$3000, and the MS3x cost ~$1200-1800 for me (the base unit is like $650 from DIY, but you need a number of other things to "complete" the kit for comparing it to the XFI).

For those who are interested, here is a comparison put together by Matt Creamer at DIYautotune (check out their dragpak chally on youtube):

__________________________________________________ __________
The FAST XFI and MS3 are pretty similar on paper. I'm looking through
the FAST manual to see if there's any major differences, and here's what
I have noticed. Look like some points land in favor of FAST and some for
MS3. Overall, the MS3 has a bit more precise fuel control.

1. The fuel and ignition tuning process is almost EXACTLY the same for
the main fuel and spark maps. Unlike some of the other John Meany ECUs,
the FAST system uses a VE type fuel table, which MS also does.

2. The only acceleration enrichment option in FAST is a "accelerator
pump" type enrichment; MS3 (and MS2) also has a model based acceleration
enrichment that is a bit more sophisticated. This generally has very
little effect on a drag car; it's more useful on a road racer.

3. FAST has more nitrous channels (4 instead of 2), while MS3 can run
its nitrous control progressively.

4. FAST boost control is closed loop only. MS3 (and MS2) has closed and
open loop boost control. MS3 can also adjust boost as a function of
vehicle speed - although this is not allowed in the NHRA.

5. FAST has a dedicated EGR function (this could be done with a generic
output on MS3).

6. FAST has a time based traction control option to meet NHRA rules
against monitoring wheel speed.

7. FAST individual cylinder corrections are a fixed percent or degree.
MS3 has 6 x 6 tables for each cylinder.

8. FAST has 8 extra analog inputs; MS3 has 3 to 5 depending on setup.

9. FAST can switch between 4 internally stored maps; MS3 has 2.

10. FAST does not support MAF input or blending alpha N with speed
density. MS3 (and MS2) supports both.

11. FAST does not seem to have the same sort of gradual staged injection
capabilities as MS3 and MS2, although I could be wrong.

Thanks,

Matt Cramer
DIYAutoTune.com
__________________________________________________ ____________


I also spoke with fastmanefi (fastmanefi.com) about the FAST system, and he gave a great sales pitch for their product. It is a complete stand alone system that you can plug and play. Apparently the XFI system (not hemi specific) is popular among the competitive national drag racers. Further, the XFI 2.0 is supposed to be able to "tune itself". Granted, the high HP jobs, this wouldn't work with.

The XFI is truly a plug and play (with some computer inputs, I'm sure), while the MS3x requires you to wire the system and input some variables.
 
wow joe. That's a great post. Seems to have all the info in one place.

to the OP one thing to keep in mid is that if you go with a modern trans there are speed sensors in the wheels that will be needed. And they will require a tone ring to operate correctly. I do not know the details but, it's something you need to know and consider. A factory pcm with trans function disabled seems to be the easiesy and cheapest way to go. That or carb, if you don't have the electronics.

Only the car (LX) or NAG tranny needs wheel sensors and tone rings, not a truck tranny (545RFE). A good used 545 can be had for around $600, and can be controlled by the stock ECM, allowing shift changes and other mods via a Diablo tuner. The only drawback is tunnel modification.
 
Wheel speed sensors are for TCS and ABS use, doesn't the NAG get wheel speed from the output shaft of the trans?
 
Only the car (LX) or NAG tranny needs wheel sensors and tone rings, not a truck tranny (545RFE). A good used 545 can be had for around $600, and can be controlled by the stock ECM, allowing shift changes and other mods via a Diablo tuner. The only drawback is tunnel modification.

I agree 100%, I did not mention the 545 because the OP did not mention running it. He was talking about the car transmissions.
 
That sucks...putting a reluctor ring and sensor on the duster would be...difficult.
 
I have been giving serious consideration in using a SRT8 Jeep rear end init. This way it would already have the needed items. Rough measurements says it is just slightly smaller than an A body 8 3/4. So far locally I have only found one and the guy thinks it is gold.
 
Uhog,

I think your estimate for MS3 is a bit high unless your including the requisite fuel system as well. If you include the fuel system your estimate is spot on. The issue with MS is similar to a lot of projects the more you're willing to do yourself the more you're going to save. For example, if your putting a junk-yard hemi into your car, and have the factory harness you can save a fair amount by modifying the stock harness.

I also really liked the comparison given to you by Matt Cramer comparing MS and FAST. I think it clearly shows that even though MS is DIY, it is very feature complete.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
The choice was between the FAST XFI 2.0 and the Megasquirt 3x for me. The two systems nearly match each other in features, while the FAST XFI cost ~$3000, and the MS3x cost ~$1200-1800 for me (the base unit is like $650 from DIY, but you need a number of other things to "complete" the kit for comparing it to the XFI).

For those who are interested, here is a comparison put together by Matt Creamer at DIYautotune (check out their dragpak chally on youtube):

The DIY Drag Pac Challenger is now tuned with FAST.
 
Uhog,

I think your estimate for MS3 is a bit high unless your including the requisite fuel system as well. If you include the fuel system your estimate is spot on. The issue with MS is similar to a lot of projects the more you're willing to do yourself the more you're going to save. For example, if your putting a junk-yard hemi into your car, and have the factory harness you can save a fair amount by modifying the stock harness.

I also really liked the comparison given to you by Matt Cramer comparing MS and FAST. I think it clearly shows that even though MS is DIY, it is very feature complete.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

Joe -

Here's how I got there:

Here's my breakdown for $1800
640 Megasquirt
75 megasquirt wiring harness
75 3x wiring harness
300 coil drivers
375 cable driven throttle body with TPS
12 MAP
150 chrys 300 engine harness (from junkyard)
200 wideband O2
~1840

If you cut out the expensive coil drivers and the expensive throttle body, it's not so bad.

My plan is to attempt to modify a stock TB to cable driven - not sure if that will be successful. I'm going to the junkyard saturday to look for those bosch 211 coil drivers. Wish me luck, save a few bucks!
progress.gif
 
Thanks for the Break Down.

Your prices are very reasonable, for example, I've been questioning myself,"Do I really want to build my own MS3 box?" Sure I could save $200.00 but what if I plug it in and I fry it? So the question becomes one of 640.00 vs 455.00? How confident am I in my ability to follow directions and solder solder?

The only thing is I don't think you really need both of the megasquirt wiring harnesses. On my 06 6.1 hemi with the factory harness, the wires are REALLY long, I think they are long enough to cut the factory plugs off the end solder on the DB-37 connectors and be good. You'd need to create some kind of grommet where the harness passes through the firewall.

I think budgeting 200.00 for the wideband is a really good Idea, everything I've read about tuning says that it is a thousand times easier with a wideband sensor.

Keep looking for a cable operated throttle body, I was able to pick up a new 85mm Power Products throttle body on ebay for only a $100.00. They've been making Ford stuff for a while, there quality was questionable when they first began, but complaints have been WAY down.

As for modifying the factory throttle body, good luck. I managed to DESTROY my stock 80mm drive by wire throttle body just trying to take it apart. (100% operator error, FYI there is a roll bin that holds the throttle shaft in place, remove the butterfly, knock out the roll pin and the whole thing comes apart, otherwise you'll break the gears and motor trying to take it apart.)

The key problem with modifying the stock one is that you need to figure out not just how to attache the cable and make sure the return spring is strong enough, but you all need to figure out how to adapt a TPS and maybe some type of Idle air control.

If your REALLY ambitious you could buy a used Nissan 90mm throttle body off of ebay, I see them all the time for right around $100.00. You'd have to machine your own adapter plate to mount it to the Hemi intake. I made my own adapter plate for the Power Throttle Body. See attached photos.


Coil Drivers are an issue. I was going to go with 8 BIP373 and make my own spark box. I know that Bosch 211 coil drivers are pretty cool drivers but they are over 100.00 dollars each. OUCH, using 8 BIP373 are less than 100.00 total. But the Bosch 211 coil drivers are very clean and would be very easy to install and use. Let me know how your search goes, they could end up in your tool box, by accident. :angel4:

I don't think you need the MAP, Megasquirt comes with a MAP sensor, you simply need to run a vacuum line from the manifold to the box.

Best of Luck,

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 

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and here I was content running the stock pcm, and you guys have just about talked me into a MS3. I can build it all myself, as I repair medical equipment for a living. I have access to just about any factory part made after 2002, and would not mind retrofitting coil drivers if the bosch coil drivers are a factory part I can get them for little cost. I had ruled out aftermarket efi (such as fast ect) due to cost, and the fact that I have a completer ram for my swap so I really have everything needed, but since I'm installing a twin turbo setup, I would like to have more control than what I can pay to have done via diablo. So if you guys can tell me where to find the factory parts I need to source, I will jump on board with the MS3
 
Thanks for the Break Down.

Your prices are very reasonable, for example, I've been questioning myself,"Do I really want to build my own MS3 box?" Sure I could save $200.00 but what if I plug it in and I fry it? So the question becomes one of 640.00 vs 455.00? How confident am I in my ability to follow directions and solder solder?

FYI - There are differences in the v3.0 that you buid (or buy) and the v3.57 that you can only buy, if that matters to you. I bought the v3.57. Off wikipedia:

There is a newer version of the PCB. The V3.57 is a surface-mount device (SMD) version of the MegaSquirt V3 'thru-hole' main board. The 3.57 version of the board was created in order to allow for automated assembly of the majority of components using automated pick and place (machine assembly) and reflow soldering. The boards are meant for those unable or unwilling to assemble their own main board. Note that the V3.57 board is not a replacement for the 'build-it-yourself' boards, but rather an additional version of the MegaSquirt main board intended to make life easier for distributors who are building their boards for resale, to compete with main stream ECU suppliers.
The only thing is I don't think you really need both of the megasquirt wiring harnesses. On my 06 6.1 hemi with the factory harness, the wires are REALLY long, I think they are long enough to cut the factory plugs off the end solder on the DB-37 connectors and be good. You'd need to create some kind of grommet where the harness passes through the firewall.

I already bought it! I was noticing the same thing as you when I got the factory harness I bought. If I don't need the MS3 harness, I'll return it. I have a feeling I may use them both, given I don't have the right tools to crimp for and assemble a harness (though how hard can it be? Do you have some good info on it?).

I've been wondering about a grommet vs a firewall bulkhead - given I'm re-wiring the car at the same time, the grommet idea is probably best.

I think budgeting 200.00 for the wideband is a really good Idea, everything I've read about tuning says that it is a thousand times easier with a wideband sensor.

Bought that from DIY as well. There is no way I would attempt tuning EFI without one. Also, Matt was telling me the MS3 has some sort of autotune function, but it needs a wideband to operate.

My order from DIY arrived a couple weeks ago - I just need to get the rest of the project going! They actually had the best price on the gsl392 pump and install kit!

Keep looking for a cable operated throttle body, I was able to pick up a new 85mm Power Products throttle body on ebay for only a $100.00. They've been making Ford stuff for a while, there quality was questionable when they first began, but complaints have been WAY down.

I'd love to find something decent for $100. I figure if I pay $200, I might as well buy the FAST 92mm with adapter for~$450. I took the cover off the 5.7 hemi TB I have, and I have sourced a throttle cam for a 944 porsche that is $15. The last thing I'd have to do is figure out how to mount it without destoying it!

My best idea was to cut-off the motor wheel, and leave everything else as-is. Do you think that would take care of most of the rolling resistance? I know you've taken one apart already...

Also, I haven't figured out how to mount something without disassembling it to weld or solder something on. Did you have any ideas?

The far side of the throttle body where there is just the metal freeze-plug looking thing - do you know what lies underneath?

As for modifying the factory throttle body, good luck. I managed to DESTROY my stock 80mm drive by wire throttle body just trying to take it apart. (100% operator error, FYI there is a roll bin that holds the throttle shaft in place, remove the butterfly, knock out the roll pin and the whole thing comes apart, otherwise you'll break the gears and motor trying to take it apart.)

The key problem with modifying the stock one is that you need to figure out not just how to attache the cable and make sure the return spring is strong enough, but you all need to figure out how to adapt a TPS and maybe some type of Idle air control.

If your REALLY ambitious you could buy a used Nissan 90mm throttle body off of ebay, I see them all the time for right around $100.00. You'd have to machine your own adapter plate to mount it to the Hemi intake. I made my own adapter plate for the Power Throttle Body. See attached photos.

I just read up on the Nissan 90mm throttle body - thanks for the lead! However, I found out the exterior dimension is 90mm, not the interior. Really it's ~75mm they say. Bummer.

Before I ruin the hemi TB, I'm going to see if anything is at the junkyard that would work (a stock LS1 TB would be fine by me!).

Coil Drivers are an issue. I was going to go with 8 BIP373 and make my own spark box. I know that Bosch 211 coil drivers are pretty cool drivers but they are over 100.00 dollars each. OUCH, using 8 BIP373 are less than 100.00 total. But the Bosch 211 coil drivers are very clean and would be very easy to install and use. Let me know how your search goes, they could end up in your tool box, by accident. :angel4:

I don't think you need the MAP, Megasquirt comes with a MAP sensor, you simply need to run a vacuum line from the manifold to the box.

The $12 is what they charged to solder the MAP into the MS box for me. Apparently I could have wired it in on the exterior as well, but this sounded fine to me.
 
and here I was content running the stock pcm, and you guys have just about talked me into a MS3. I can build it all myself, as I repair medical equipment for a living. I have access to just about any factory part made after 2002, and would not mind retrofitting coil drivers if the bosch coil drivers are a factory part I can get them for little cost. I had ruled out aftermarket efi (such as fast ect) due to cost, and the fact that I have a completer ram for my swap so I really have everything needed, but since I'm installing a twin turbo setup, I would like to have more control than what I can pay to have done via diablo. So if you guys can tell me where to find the factory parts I need to source, I will jump on board with the MS3

Here's a list of what I ordered from DIYautotune.com:
MegaSquirt-III EMS System with MS3X Expansion V3.57 - Assembled (+$12 pullup for crank sensor)
12' MegaSquirt Wiring Harness (MS1 / MS2 / MS3 Ready)
12' MegaSquirt Wiring Harness for MS3X
Innovate MTX-L powersports gauge - sensor - controller - 3844
Walbro GSL392 255lph Fuel Pump
Walbro GSL392 Full Installation Kit 400-939
Free T shirt- size L

If you want to assemble it yourself, just get the MS3 assembly kit v3.0, and the ms3x daughterboard. Cost on those two items, as Joe said, is $455 v th $640 assembled. I did the assembled, and Matt confirmed it would be conformed for the hemi internally (with the $12 crank sensor). He didn't tell me if that was the only hemi specific internal modification, but I didn't ask.

I emaled and spoke with Matt for a while before the order, and he handled the order. Tell him Wade sent you! I told him I wouldn't be the only one...
[email protected]
address the email to Matt Creamer - ask him all the questions you like. I know I did! He's got a slant six dart he's working on right now, and will be using Megasquirt on.

Also, Matt told me DIYautotune has 3 tech guys, and 10 guys total in the company.

Joe- oops- it wasn't the MAP that charged $12, but the crank sensor soldered in.
 
Really? Why'd they switch?

This one, right?
http://www.diyautotune.com/cars/customer/megamaniac_nhr_drag_pak_challenger.htm

I guess they changed the wrap?

Actually Wertmans Drag Pak, the "Mega Magamaniac" started life with Mega Squirt EFI and the body wrap. After many attemps of trying to get the car to make a clean pass down the track the Mega Squirt EFI was pulled out and a Bigstuff3 EFI was installed. The team had issues after 2 attemps with the Bigstuff3 and finally the FAST EFI was installed. I spent many hours on the phone with the Wertman team during their attemps to get the car down the track. Besides tuning issues there were also many other problems. Once the tream put together the right package I believe the car with driver Keith Lynch have earned 4 Wally's with it.
 
So was it a Megasquirt issue? Were they running megasquirt 3x? Should I be concerned?
 
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