The HEI Video is online now

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TrailBeast

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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I wish I had a high def camera now.
It's SO easy to test the newly built units with the one in my car.
I just disconnect the pickup coil connector from my ECU and plug it in to the one I'm testing and power the coil off the battery.

Here ya go. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRFX1zctJcg&feature=youtu.be"]Classic HEI Ignition Systems - YouTube[/ame]
 
i put it right here Greg for those who may have trouble loading it. very impressed to say the least :cheers:

[ame="http://youtu.be/KRFX1zctJcg"]302 Found[/ame]
 
That is impressive. It works with a standard Mopar e-distributor right? I mean my small block won't have that Chevy style distributor?
 
73AbodEE said:
i put it right here Greg for those who may have trouble loading it. very impressed to say the least :cheers:

302 Found
Click to expand...

Thanks man.


DFX 340 Duster said:
That is impressive. It works with a standard Mopar e-distributor right? I mean my small block won't have that Chevy style distributor?
Click to expand...

That distributor is the electronic one out of my 318
Since I had the room to get to it easy, I just marked the rotor and pulled it test the other HEI system I just put together.
I only pulled it for the video.
From now on all I have to do to them is plug it into my ECU and connect it to the battery and turn the key.

So, yes it works great with the original electronic distributor.

You can even put an aftermarket pickup in a points distributor and use these just that easy.
 
Just what I am looking for. Does this get rid of the ballast resistor?
 
Sweet is this what you ordered? I hope it helps my 318 in my Doba.
 
That is impressive, but I have to tell you (for the benifit of others) that allowing that much gap, which builds TREMENDOUS voltages, is not good for either coils or control modules. Something as simple as a broken plug or open plug wire can kill modern control modules, and can sometimes damage coils (internal flashover)
 
Up to .050 is accepted gap for HEI, but it can happen anyway.
Flashover or arch out to ground on the coil can happen anytime at any gap, but if people want to have a safe margin for error they can set them at .040 if they want.
Didn't have a problem for a 1.25in gap (temporarily of course)
I run mine at .050 and never had a problem, and it's an easy cheap fix if it does happen.
Thanks for tossin that out there Del.
 
*UPDATE* as promised

this car is my daily driver so i wasnt looking for a super clean install, only function and reliability. i had to see for myself what this conversion is all about.

i received my kit from Greg. i went out and hooked it up and i must say i am extremely impressed with the results. I elected to keep my stock mopar EI components in place just "in case" i ever want to go back or if i sell the car. for anyone that is interested, this is what i did:

i chopped off and used an old EI distributor connector to attach to Gregs distributor wires off of the GM module to plug into my distributor.

instead of hard wiring the ballast connector wiring, i used plate connectors to directly mate my ballast connectors together.

i left my coil in the stock location with the ground wire still attached and mounted the new coil next to my wiper motor on one of the studs. i used male and female connectors to run power from my existing hot coil wire to feed the new coil 12v.

i had to drill a hole in the heat sink and mount it with the ground from the Module sandwiched between it and the fender, using an existing hole.

i re-gapped my plugs to .048, the rest is a plug in.

the results are fantastic. this car starts and runs like it never has. the spark is so intense, i can hear it working inside the cap standing outside the car with the hood closed. i barely power brake this thing with 235/70/15s and 2.76 gears and it just instantly lights em' up where it had to work before to do it.

if i ever need or want to go back to my factory stuff all i have to do is plug my ballast back up, hook the power wire back onto my old coil, plug in my distributor and my coil wire. no tools required. im sure for as long as own this car , i wont need to, but its there just in case. i did not cut one original wire for this install. i wrapped every thing up in electrical tape after these pics.

it could still benefit from a better rotor and possibly a timing change, but i have not done either, yet.
 

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73AbodEE said:
*UPDATE* as promised

this car is my daily driver so i wasnt looking for a super clean install, only function and reliability. i am mopar to the bone, but i had to see for myself what all the hype is over this conversion.

i received my kit from Greg. i went out and hooked it up and i must say i am extremely impressed with the results. I elected to keep my stock mopar EI components in place just "in case" i ever want to go back or if i sell the car. for anyone that is interested, this is what i did:

i chopped off and used an old EI distributor connector to attach to Gregs distributor wires off of the GM module to plug into my distributor.

instead of hard wiring the ballast connector wiring, i used plate connectors to directly mate my ballast connectors together.

i left my coil in the stock location with the ground wire still attached and mounted the new coil next to my wiper motor on one of the studs. i used male and female connectors to run power from my existing hot coil wire to feed the new coil 12v.

i had to drill a hole in the heat sink and mount it with the ground from the Module sandwiched between it and the fender, using an existing hole.

i re-gapped my plugs to .048, the rest is a plug in.

the results are fantastic. this car starts and runs like it never has. the spark is so intense, i can hear it working inside the cap standing outside the car with the hood closed. i barely power brake this thing with 235/70/15s and 2.76 gears and it just instantly lights em' up where it had to work before to do it.

if i ever need or want to go back to my factory stuff all i have to do is plug my ballast back up, hook the power wire back onto my old coil, plug in my distributor and my coil wire. the only tool i would need is a wrench to tighten up my positive coil wire. im sure for as long as own this car , i wont need to, but its there just in case. i did not cut one original wire for this install. i wrapped every thing up in electrical tape after these pics.

it could still benefit from a better rotor and possibly a timing change, but i have not done either, yet.
Click to expand...


That's great Lance, glad you like it.
I thought my car had more power too, but I didn't want to over estimate the system.

After mine was installed I had a WOT pre ignition knock that wasn't there before, so I chked the timing and the initial timing hadn't moved.
It must have been the spark was igniting the fuel sooner.
I set the initial from 12 to 14 degrees and disconnected the vacuum advance, and between the initial and the mechanical it comes really close to a good total.
 
TrailBeast said:
That's great Lance, glad you like it.
I thought my car had more power too, but I didn't want to over estimate the system.

After mine was installed I had a WOT pre ignition knock that wasn't there before, so I chked the timing and the initial timing hadn't moved.
It must have been the spark was igniting the fuel sooner.
I set the initial from 12 to 14 degrees and disconnected the vacuum advance, and between the initial and the mechanical it comes really close to a good total.
Click to expand...

i definitely noticed better throttle response and a much cleaner burn. the hot-start issue is next to none, still takes a second to fire after running it hot and hard, but much better than it was over the original stuff. i am very happy with this set-up. i do not get any ping at WOT. im guessing my timing still has room for advance, i havent put a light on it yet.
 
I have a 90 dodge 3/4 ton that has an computer instead of our "traditional" electronic ignition. Will this same set up work with that to eliminate my ballast?
 
67Dart273 said:
That is impressive, but I have to tell you (for the benifit of others) that allowing that much gap, which builds TREMENDOUS voltages, is not good for either coils or control modules. Something as simple as a broken plug or open plug wire can kill modern control modules, and can sometimes damage coils (internal flashover)
Click to expand...

2x
 
Ive been building these for my own cars and customers for years cant beat the set up minus the completely wrong looking coil. Anyone know if there is a old school round 12 volt coil that will work with this set up? Nevermind found one fairly quick on a search napa ic14sb.
 
CudaJunction said:
cant beat the set up minus the completely wrong looking coil.
Click to expand...

If anybody wants to be only "half wrong", you might use the E-core coil from a Mopar Magnum engine. I have one w/ matching connector I'll never use (PM me, real cheap) since I found the GM coil has a factory cable that plugs direct to the ECU for no fuss. Can't say the Mopar one looks much different from the GM or Ford coils.
 
I'd like to see a couple mopar intallations to see just how clean we could make it look.
Great job...
 
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