No2 lead additive LOLI confirmed what the long black thing is... a petrified pencil.
that is OEM sender type/design. Aftermarket replacements are a different design, less accurate at gauge, but much less expensive than having that one restored.
No2 lead additive LOLI confirmed what the long black thing is... a petrified pencil.
I'll definitely check out your build thread!Looks like you’ve got a lot of rust repair ahead of you! I clipped my Swinger as well.. once you get it all cut apart you’ll see these cars go back together like LEGO. There’s lots of little notches and alignment points throughout the car because they were pieced together by people at the assembly line. Check out my restoration thread if you need some answers, because I went through similar repairs.
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Good luck! Glad to see your not giving up! It will be a nice car in the endGood luck with this one.
once you get it all cut apart you’ll see these cars go back together like LEGO. There’s lots of little notches and alignment points throughout the car because they were pieced together by people at the assembly line.
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If you go to page one of this post you'll see it's much more than a rail, lol. Torsion bar support is cheese, inner fenders are half bondo. I have a complete inner front clip as a unit from a '74 Dart I parted out last summer to go into it.That front frame rail is a easy repair if you can find a good rail. I did one in my garage a couple of years ago. They really do just kind of fall into place.
After parting out the Dart last summer, I don't see how it won't fit in how it should. But, I'll measure, measure again, then have a few beers, and measure again the next day, then have someone else look at it and measure before I do any welds.Well that should go fairly easy too. They just kinda fit one way for the most part.