The plot thickens

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pishta said:
scope it off #2, are you seeing line under tab now? You are out of whack or your balancer has spun. You need to get it to #1 TDC. pull plug, put finger over hole and wait until hard puff while you are bumping it, then stick a straight coathanger in there and turn crank with wrench to find TDC or as close as you can tell. The timing mark should be very close to 0 on tab. Now look under cap: you can either pull distributor and rotate it 180 to get you to point to #1, or just rewire cap to reflect rotor pointing to #1 tower. If the damper is no where close to TDC, then it has spun and you need to mark the hub, and start looking for a balancer as yours could come apart. I got one (neutral balance) if you need one. I feel your pain doing this through a phone.. try a blackberry, it is dreadful.
Click to expand...

X3
Yes get it close first with out a timing light.

When angry and flustard, Take a deep breath and some time before
hitting the submit reply button.
4spdragtop is one of the best members on here and was only trying
to help you out.
You ask for help, then fired back (not a good thing). If you were to ask
a question in the future, you will get less answers because of this.

Well anyway leave that all behind. Updates?

Darryl
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks BH, I am not the 1st person to tell him/her to keep the threads/problems condensed into 1 thread. I was new here once too, but I did take/heed the advice...He/she mentioned that it "might" be a bad timing gear...well there is no "might" it either is or it isnt...I had timing issues/problems but I listened to the advice given to me and the problem was solved...the other person who advised to keep it into 1 thread is a person I consider an electrical/electronic guru on here.....

Get ridda that HEI(for now anyway) and start with a stock dizzy and get it to approx 10* before TDC on COMPRESSION...then go from there
Click to expand...
I apologize for being rude and defensive to the guys just trying to help. I really don't know how to find my old threads to repost on there. I also thought that members didn't go back and read old threads to see if they were updated. Furthermore, I heed all of the advice given to me. I appreciate anyone taking the time out to help. Maybe if I had Internet access at home I could do this on my computer. As I said before it is very hard to navigate this site on my phone. From here on out if I can't locate my original thread I will just avoid posting a new one.
 
VonCramp said:
I apologize for being rude and defensive to the guys just trying to help. I really don't know how to find my old threads to repost on there. I also thought that members didn't go back and read old threads to see if they were updated. Furthermore, I heed all of the advice given to me. I appreciate anyone taking the time out to help. Maybe if I had Internet access at home I could do this on my computer. As I said before it is very hard to navigate this site on my phone. From here on out if I can't locate my original thread I will just avoid posting a new one.
Click to expand...
if you just click on "user cp" at the top of the page then click on "your profile" on the left side, then click on "stats" , it will show you all your threads and posts.

you can also click on your user name and in the drop down box, click on "view public profile" and then "stats"

the reason one thread is better is that you get everyones input in the same place at the same time and people wont have give you the same info in four different threads. we understand your frustration , but we are all here to help you, and a good attitude goes a long way.
 
I'm no expert but the advice to check the timing mark against TDC seems like the place to start.
 
No sweat Cramps!! LOL Another way to find your posts,
1. click on "search" at the top of the page.....
2. there is an empty box("user name")that you fill with whatever members name you are searching
3. drop down box below(posts by user or threads started by user)
4. then hit enter and it should bring them up

Just like mopars, this site takes a little learning!
Hell I just learned the "multi-quote" thing....
 
4spdragtop,any chance you could send over one of your hot police chicks seeing how I have been a bad boy.Your labeled now .
 
...had a 318 in a 71 cuda one time long ago...traded a camaro for it,motor was fresh built came with receipts,..hot lil 318 would turn up 8,000 like butter!! anyways,..was out drinking an redneck'in,..out run my buddy's Z28 4 times,..smoked him any way he wanted to kick them....afterwards we was setting at old store out in the country finishing off the whiskey,..fired it up an started doing donuts round his slowmaro patting my roof,...them she went to spitting an a sputtering,...limped it back to the house,..figured timing chain jumped,..went got one next day put it in,...running fine,...got ready to go redneck'in that night,..took off an didn't make it to end of street it sputtering again,...after pulling timing chain on an off 4 times an it run good till id drive it an go sputtering,....said hell with it,..put battery back in my 340 4speed duster,..sold cuda way she sat,..ol boy came by next day driving it,..said one tooth on distributor was cracked off on end,an wouldn't jump a tooth till took off driving it...he put new gear on dizzy an ran fine,bought car back an drove it anutter year then sold it still running again...
 
I hate to join the "Chinese stuff sucks" bandwagon but honestly everytime I use a part, even some damn camber bolts, most stuff that comes from there actually does suck and I wouldn't be surprised if it's the dizzy doing this to you.

If you REALLY think the Mopar ignition boxes are that bad (I have personally never seen one melt, and never known anyone aside from on the Internet have one die) then I guess you get to deal with it as is.

When I bought the engine I'm using, it had a Mopar electronic dizzy but nothing else so I wired up an MSD HEI module (externally) and it runs like a champ.
 
I melted a ignition box back in high school but I put a 68 318 in a 71 body and had it wired wrong. That was 1984 and Al Gore hadn't gotten around to inventing the internet yet! It would so overcharge the battery I would drive around with every electrical option on to try and keep it under control. Lived with it lime that as my daily driver for 2 years.
 
Installed the new distributor and Mopar box. Car still wouldn't run. I just noticed the distributor wiggling around as I was cranking it. Pulled the oil pump driveshaft and it is galled right below the gear. Is this the source of my non-running 340 woes?
 
Another way to find your thread. Since you have a Smart phone, save this thread under your bookmarks on the internet. These guys have a wealth of info. I find new stuff every day. Mike
 
I was going to post a new thread about a new problem but I guess I can still relate it to an original post since it is about the same 340. After installing the new factory Mopar distributor and orange box the 340 still fires but doesn't run. That's the same old problem. However, the new problem I am speaking of is I noticed my new Mopar distributor wiggling like a dashboard Hula dancer. Unfortunately that is not much of an exaggeration. I went ahead and pulled the oil pump driveshaft. It is galled just below the gear where it rides inside the bronze bushing. So, would this "wiggling" of the distributor cause my motor not to run? What would cause the shaft to gaul in the bushing. Is it possible my cam is moving causing pressure on the shaft? I ask this because the motor was previously in a bad accident while the car was parked. The motor seemed to run fine after the collision. I even drove it out of my neighbor's yard. However I soon pulled it from the old Barracuda and ditched the old electronic distributor in favor of the cleaner Mallory Unilite. That one lasted for about two days after dropping the motor into the 69 'Cuda. Yes 'Cuda, not Barracuda. On a side note I recall seeing this distributor wiggle around as well. I just assumed it was a bent distributor shaft. Four distributors later I am at a dead end. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
 
dirty white boy said:
...had a 318 in a 71 cuda one time long ago...traded a camaro for it,motor was fresh built came with receipts,..hot lil 318 would turn up 8,000 like butter!! anyways,..was out drinking an redneck'in,..out run my buddy's Z28 4 times,..smoked him any way he wanted to kick them....afterwards we was setting at old store out in the country finishing off the whiskey,..fired it up an started doing donuts round his slowmaro patting my roof,...them she went to spitting an a sputtering,...limped it back to the house,..figured timing chain jumped,..went got one next day put it in,...running fine,...got ready to go redneck'in that night,..took off an didn't make it to end of street it sputtering again,...after pulling timing chain on an off 4 times an it run good till id drive it an go sputtering,....said hell with it,..put battery back in my 340 4speed duster,..sold cuda way she sat,..ol boy came by next day driving it,..said one tooth on distributor was cracked off on end,an wouldn't jump a tooth till took off driving it...he put new gear on dizzy an ran fine,bought car back an drove it anutter year then sold it still running again...
Click to expand...
Well, at the very least your story made me feel better! I did discover my oil pump driveshaft is galled where it rides inside the bronze bushing and the distributor wiggling like a hula dancer.
 
I have seen real loose oil pump drives and block bushings and the car still run ok. Not perfect but they'll generally run. The timing will usually jump around when you put a light on it but it'll run. I can't imagine the bushing or shaft being so bad it won't run because of it. Are you sure you got it timed right? There are 2 top dead centers. TDC compression stroke (that's when the rotor should point at the #1 spark plug wire terminal on the dist. cap) and TDC exhaust stroke (180* out of time). Sometimes they'll kick like their trying to start if their 180* out of time. Also, run the wires to make sure no wires got switched around. It rotates clockwise and the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Voodoo1 just mentioned the ballast resistor and that could be the issue if you wired the HEI to the coil positive wire in the wiring harness. When the ballast resistor is bad the dist. gets power when cranking and will show spark then and the engine will try to start but as soon as it fires you let off the key and the power drops out. Did you try running a direct hot wire from the battery?
 
VonCramp,
how many miles on the engine???
& history of same..., i.e., rebuilt?
top end repair, etc,etc,
 
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