Yeah... They are good. A good chunk of their design was utilized in the newer Street Demon carbs.
That says a lot.
Except the best part sadly.
Yeah... They are good. A good chunk of their design was utilized in the newer Street Demon carbs.
That says a lot.
Not all of them are great carbs. I've found the 72 to 74 are the best. There are some later non-leanburn versions out there too. Many years ago I tried running a later 400 carb on my 360 fury. It was lean and just didn't make the power. I swapped to a 73 440 thermoquad and the difference was substantial. I think they're great but the plastic bodies are going bad on most of mine. They're just getting old.
71 is press in jets, avoid unless you need to be date correct.The 71-74 TQ are the best to use, Truck TQ were affected later as the emission requirements came in later for them. Some TQ do not even have ported vacuum for the distributor vacuum advance. They do require a choke to start or they will drive you crazy.
71 is press in jets, avoid unless you need to be date correct.
The electric choke helper in 73 and up helps it work better, because the choke needs to be pretty close to fully closed for them to start quickly.
It is what really keeps it from bogging more than the spring tension.The secondary air valve choke/pull off, whatever you want to call it, can cause some strange problems. Especially as these carbs age & the rubber diaphragm goes hard from age & heat.
Usual symptom is like stutter when the secondaries start to open. What happens is the AV releases too slowly, AV acts like a choke & the mixture goes very rich.
Fix is very simple; buy a new AV & if at all in doubt, replace it.
Those are not the same, the calibration curve is totally different....ford based.From memory the Australian ones were electric choke. Get one off of Ebay
we run a T.Q. on our 340 stocker. we use a oxy sensor in header collector to see a/f mixture. easy way to tune the carb. when we tried that, had a a/f mixture of 12.3 to 12.4 all way down the track, this was with a clutch car. that makes it a flat fuel curve. main thing done to carb, was get rid of the inlet piece. and tap carb for 3/8 pipe thread , adds volume of fuel to carb. i used brass nipple.
Hence the edit to my original post:Except the best part sadly.
To hard to get parts for, by the time that you would find everything you need for one the season is over with.
That's good on a driver...I want it just rich enough to not have drive ability problems. Richen the secondary circuit for WOT.That's correct. The carbs are lean especially in the idle circuits.