thermostat or not or what?

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OiiiiiiO

OiiiiiiO

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how do you determine what to do with the thermostat when racing? is there a science here? use one, restricter or none at all> help, please and thanx
 
i would definitely use a thermostat or a restrictor. none is a bad idea. a cooling system is an exchange system. the stat works as a door to let the stuff in the rad cool enough and then exchange it in the block for the hot stuff. the cycle continues. without one, the water/coolant can't stay in the rad long enough to get cool before it goes back into the block.
 
and pressure is a factor here also, there is a big difference between running an 8 pound cap and and one at 20. what's the set-up?
 
451, eddy`s perf., vic 440 manif., mech. roller, approx. 11 comp., 727w/3800. going mid 11`s and trying for more
 
redfastback said:
i would definitely use a thermostat or a restrictor. none is a bad idea. a cooling system is an exchange system. the stat works as a door to let the stuff in the rad cool enough and then exchange it in the block for the hot stuff. the cycle continues. without one, the water/coolant can't stay in the rad long enough to get cool before it goes back into the block.
Click to expand...

tweety said:
What kind of radiator- stock, aftermarket aluminum, stock mech' fan, or electric?
Click to expand...
alum. rad., alum. pump and housing. fan is mech.
i heard someone mention to pull the guts out of the stat and use water and water wetter mixed in. thanks for your time here
 
I'd leave the 'stat alone for now and just run it a few times, if it gets hot fit a bigger radiator and/or some serious electric fans.
That purple ice water wetter stuff seems to work pretty good, try a bottle of that in the mix also.
 
use a restrictor if you run a mechanical pump, use no restrictor if an electric pump, we try to start our pass with the temp at 140 every pass the same temp, temp variance has a great factor in the elapsed time, so manually controling the temp is the key,
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I got a 160 t-stat in the Duster. The car is a street car. But
this still works great at the strip. 160-180 all the time.
Stock heads, radiator, and a clutch fan.
 
I use a CSI water neck for a chevy on my small block mopar without the thermostat and the inside dia I believe is smaller and acts like a restrictor. Works well. Jysnflem

DSC_8374.jpg
 
I had my stock radiator tanks recored with a BB core in preperation for putting in the 400, I had to trim the body around the bigger core a tad.

After that was done and installed I had to put the thermostat back in, my little 318 just won't warm up now without one.
 
I reckon the best value for money on the planet for rads is that monster 31" x19" summit or Jegs knock off of the Griffin for under $200 you couldn't even buy a decent stocker and it's about a third of the weight.
I had one in the dart with that big 'ol 556" KB hemi and the thing used to take 10 mins to warm up, the only time I ever over heated it was when I forgot to turn on the Mezeire electric water pump and even then it took ages before it got hot- LOL.
You have to notch the frame rails about an inch on each side to fit it in, but it most definitely works!
My little Jap motor makes just as much HP as the hemi and it's cooled by a tiny little rad, BUT they have the thing enclosed and properly ducted into the nose of the car, so all the air actually goes through the rad' instead of over or under it.
I'm busy putting the 69 cuda back together and I reckon I will try and copy the cooling system in the Skyline, Ti 'cooling plate' 'n all!
 
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