Think I need a new clutch

[slowdown]

i have the McLead clutch with diaphragm pressure plate in my 68 dart right now. I didn't think it would last, I believe it's the first level clutch they sell. Anyhow I think it's time for a new one. I took it out for a drive an at a stop light I heard, what sounded like a loose piece of metal like something was loose or rattling when I had the clutch in. It would grind when I tried to put it in gear. I managed to get it home an look at it. I jacked the car up an had my wife push the clutch in while it was up on stands blocked an sure as **** it was coming from the clutch. After that it wouldn't go into gear at all without grinding, so my question is what's a better clutch for my combo? I've had that clutch in the car for a couple of summers. I only drive the car on the weekends an not very far, an as far as spirited driving I smoke the tires every now and again.
The car is a 68 dart with a Dana 60 4:10 gears, small block 318 bored 40 over with a 4 inch scat rotating assembly, rhs heads 2.02 in valve, xe284 hyd cam, Hughes r rockers, small supercharger, 750 dp, water methinjection, 4speed A833. Should I just go with the next
Level up in clutch? For what it's worth this clutch didn't last long for as little as I drove it.

 

[ValiantOne]

If you like the diaphragm then you could step up to the Centerforce. Brewers has em'. I just swithced to to a McLeod diaphragm and I'm have a lot of trouble getting used to it. The pedal pressure changes over the course of the pedal throw and i find it hard to be consistent with it.

When I do my engine swap next year I think I am going to go back to the borg and beck type.

Best

 

[Dartnut]

For what it's worth (my opinion).
I think your problem isn't really the clutch, it's the release bearing.
Hopefully it didn't wreck your fingers in the pressure plate, but i doubt that. You are probably looking at a full replacement to be safe.
I've had this happen to me years ago where the release bearing seized to the collar and wore the collar down to the point that it was making noises and not releasing the clutch. This will happen over time if you ride the clutch a lot or have the free play at the top of the pedal adjusted improperly.
I bought the car that way, and when i took the transmission out, that was the problem.
The car was a '69 Coronet R/T 440 4 speed that i bought in 1991. It had the original borg & beck clutch in it.
I did get a smoking deal on the car because of this problem!
The guy i bought it off of rode the clutch all of the time because he was told that it was good for it.......NOT!
I have used Mcleod street and strip borg & beck clutches with good results and have a new Centerforce dual friction diaphragm style that i am running in my Dart Sport with good results as well.
Pick your poison, there are a lot of opinions and options out there, but i find that you get what you pay for.........

 

[baracus]

Ask Yellow Rose.. Seriously, search there was a recent discussion on clutches that has a ton of good info.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Get it apart first for inspection.
I have been using factory 340 discs (P4529136) for many years behind my HO360.The diaphragm is circa 2004. It probably has 100,000 mile or so on it. During that time,I have replaced several discs.These discs are smooth engaging,easy on the flywheel and pressure plate,and take quite a bit of street abuse. Eventually mine either spit out a spring (or two), tear off chunks of linings, or crack the hub,but they last a few summers;more, now that I'm getting older.lol