Thinking about turbo on my/6 again...

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If I was going to do this. I would use a draw thru system for an early '80s Buick Regal. GM spent millions of dollars developing the system so little old ladies can drive there Regals and not know it was turbo charged. So it is sized correctly for what you want to do.

When sourcing a unit, try to get the carburetor also. It is setup for draw thru turbos and has enough capacity to feed the system. I would use an Offy 4v manifold because it will bolt to the stock exhaust manifold and has a larger hole to mount the turbo outlet too. Make a J pipe to connect the exhaust to the turbo. The turbo inlet is 2", just the right size for the slants exhaust outlet. Then run a 2 1/2" pipe off the turbo.

This unit will put out about 9psi max and would be good for about a 180hp on a slant and would be a clean simple install in a pickup.
 
Have we explored the cost of fabrication of fuel rail/injector/crank spark?

It seems a bit more reliable once sorted. But i only speak from what ive read vs what ive done.

And again, having the feedback loop from an O2 sensor so your burn is better (supposedly) than a carb.

What about robbing stuff off of a bmw inline motor?
 
You don't need to go crank fired for the EFI route - although conversely, you could go with a crank fired ignition and carburetor if that's what you really wanted for some reason. If you want a crank trigger on a slant six, here's how I set one up. But the easy way to go with electronic control would be to use aftermarket timing control with a Lean Burn distributor. I'm doing that at the moment and plan to switch to the crank trigger after sorting some other issues, like why my fuel gauge reads way too low.

There isn't that much I would recommend stripping from a BMW for an EFI conversion. Some of the early to mid '80s motors have a plenum that has bolt-on runners, which you could potentially use with fabricated runners. But the manifolds are designed for cross flow heads with equal port spacing, and from the early '90s are made of plastic, so lifting a whole manifold is not a good idea. It might be possible to adapt their external crank triggers. But I wouldn't try adapting their electronics; their stock ECUs are not something you could tune enough to adapt it for an engine with wildly different fuel and timing requirements.
 
I've thought of doing my current build on the stand a turbo build. Right now it will end up about 10.6:1. Just too high. I have some different pistons I "could" swap out to get it to about 9.2, but still too high IMO. I'd prefer a flat 8:1, which would require custom pi$ton$. So N/A it is.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I've thought of doing my current build on the stand a turbo build. Right now it will end up about 10.6:1. Just too high. I have some different pistons I "could" swap out to get it to about 9.2, but still too high IMO. I'd prefer a flat 8:1, which would require custom pi$ton$. So N/A it is.
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There's always C16 or ethanol! :p
 
I was just aggravated that with 0.100" between the block and head being shaved that I "only "got it that high. Which was why I was thinking about adding a mild turbo. And after the 0.030 of that came off the block that my pistons are STILL 0.180 in the hole
I'm mainly worried about my rebuilder grade pistons taking "any" boost
 
volaredon said:
I was just aggravated that with 0.100" between the block and head being shaved that I "only "got it that high. Which was why I was thinking about adding a mild turbo. And after the 0.030 of that came off the block that my pistons are STILL 0.180 in the hole
I'm mainly worried about my rebuilder grade pistons taking "any" boost
Click to expand...
Keep it out of detonation and you'll be fine. They get used all the time on mild turbo and nitrous builds. I'd only start to worry about them if you're going over 15 psi or so - and even then, that's a maybe.
 
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