thrust button/shaft

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mopar head

mopar head

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Evidently their`s 2 types, I`ve taken one out with a small pin punch, 2 pcs.
This one seems to have a larger pin but does`nt budge, I`d figure I`d inquire before I damage something. If I have to dissemble the rear, I would as soon cut the axle down instead.
Am I missing something?
Installing new green bearings.
 
some thrust block halves are held together by a split roll pin -- easy to drive out with a pin punch --- you probably have one that the pin is like a long rivet and is peened over on one end after it is installed to lock the two halves of the block together -- look at the thrust pins on Mancini's web site to see what i mean --- you will have to drill/remove one end of the peened head off and the center pin will fall out -- shortening the axle is easier.
 
mopar head said:
Evidently their`s 2 types, I`ve taken one out with a small pin punch, 2 pcs.
Click to expand...

There is 2 types of suregrip, clutch and cone.

Clutch type you can knock the pin out and remove the thrust buttons.

Cone type has a thrust block and requires disassembly to remove.
 
Bad Sport said:
There is 2 types of suregrip, clutch and cone.

Clutch type you can knock the pin out and remove the thrust buttons.

Cone type has a thrust block and requires disassembly to remove.
Click to expand...
What I found with further research, what I thought was a pin was just a shadow caused by the center hole on the axles. Hate to blow this thing apart, does the ring gear need removed? I`d assume yes.

oldkimmer said:
If u get bearings from Doctor Diff u don’t need to remove the thrust block. Kim
Click to expand...
I did get the bearings from Cass but they look like the ones I pulled off and one did`nt seem to seat all the way in actually bending the ring to hold them in, I let it eat, then years later read that the thrust pin needed removed.

Anyone use the doc`s greens and still have an issue with axles not seating in?
 
john-9 said:
some thrust block halves are held together by a split roll pin -- easy to drive out with a pin punch --- you probably have one that the pin is like a long rivet and is peened over on one end after it is installed to lock the two halves of the block together -- look at the thrust pins on Mancini's web site to see what i mean --- you will have to drill/remove one end of the peened head off and the center pin will fall out -- shortening the axle is easier.
Click to expand...
I run across those last night, I don`t think I have that style. Are these modern aftermarket replacements? and what diameter are they? the block in mine seem the same dia. as the axle.
I took a magnet to it and it moves back and forth about a 1/4"
 
Bad Sport said:
So you have the cone type?



I would call Cass and double check, perhaps the new ones you have will actually work without tearing into it.
Click to expand...
I guess I have the cone type, I believe it`s bone stock 69, 489 case.
I`d hate to throw it all together and find the last axle will not seat, guess I best call Cass...
 
Just a follow up, They seated just fine. The old bearings measured identical on the outside, they must of changed it on the inside to allow not to remove the thrust block.
Car runs smooth now, where before sounded like a freight train going down the road.
Who da thunk, the slightest play in those greens would make so much noise?
I figured when I pulled the axle, bearings would be falling out and about 5 balls would be missing.:D
Thanks again fellas.
 
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