Ticking 2007 5.7 Hemi

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CFD244

CFD244

"THE NEW OLDSMOBILES ARE IN EARLY THIS YEAR"
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Hi Folks

Not an A body, but my Ram1500. I've heard these things are known to tick.......Has anyone actually nailed the cause down? My first suspect would be sticking lifters. Seems to lighten up when it gets warm. Right now I use 5w20 (from varying manufacturers, Castrol currently) like the manual says........Any suggestions?

BTW.....180 000 Kilometers. (111 000 miles).

Thanks
 
Make sure it is not an exhaust tick. They are known to have the manifold bolts break. Just had to do this boogie on the 6.4 Ram here at work.
 
First, check to make sure it isn't a broke exhaust stud, this is very common on these engines it's always the rear ones, typically there noisey cold, get better when warm, secondly if it's not that these engines are known for the bearing piling up in the roller lifter then wiping the cam lobe, here is how you tell....drive by something like a fence or hedge or concrete well etc, roll down your window and lift on the gas to coast and get it in MDS mode you should be doing around 60kph or 35mph, you should here the noise, then if you do, push your " tow haul " button this will disable the MDS and the noise will go away, some will say it's your MDS solenoid but rarely this is the case, you will find its at the very least a lifter but probably it's too late and the cam will be wiped, I had this happen once you here it you get tuned in, my 2011 Ram it went at 130 kms , the dealer could not get factory lifters due to a shortage and used after market lifters and they failed again 1.5 years later at 150 kms so they did it again ( under warrenty this time ) with oem parts, the first time it wasn't under warranty it cost me 5k to do it, this is a ugly job and as it was my daily driver I chose not to do myself IF you have the tools, skills, and time, it is doable, good luck!
 
Lots have leaky exhaust manifolds. Hard to see the evidence of a leak, but easy to hear if its manifold with hood up or at each wheelwell. Not the worst to fix but a new manifold should be installed.

internal, they do all kinds of nasty things. Valve traing being common issue.
 
Another vote for broken exhaust manifold bolts. I have a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 5.7. I took it in under warranty and they replaced them. Ticking is gone. :)
 
Yes....The sound is especially noticeable in the wheel well area. Noisiest on the passenger side.
 
Another vote for exhaust manifold leak.

Have not seen many 2008 and earlier 5.7L Hemis with the bad lifter problems. The lifter and camshaft failures seamed to come with the engine and body style changes in 2009 and later model years, but not 100% sure on that. Mine is a 2008. Had a broken stud on right side exhaust manifold since about 13,000 miles. Last winter it started noticeably ticking pretty loud at cold start up with around 200,000 miles on it. Now this summer it's ticking a lot more noticeable than ever, but has clearly become a regular sounding exhaust manifold leak so it's annoying and is time to fix it. It has about 250,000 on the odometer this week.
 
When the lifter fails and takes out the cam you almost always get a misfire. The cop cars would usually fail lifters on cylinder 5 or 7. Mainly cylinder 5.
 
Truck runs awesome. Just that ticking that seems to have gotten more noticeable in the last year. Someone once told me that you get the tic if you don't use dealer oil. I didn't believe it.......I use good quality, but not from the dealer.
 
Thanks to everyone who shared their experience. I will direct my investigation towards the exhaust leak hypothesis. Great site with folks willing to help with just about any problem. I appreciate it.
 
You should be able to go in through the wheel well and usually you can jiggle the heatshield when the studs are broke
 
There are shorty headers that stop it from popping the studs. They are direct bolt in stainless steel. I had to replace the studs twice and finally had enough and went with the headers. Problem solved. If you do the job I would not try and drill the bolts for an easy out. There is water pretty close. I would borrow a welder or have someone weld a nut on the broken stud. Then slowly turn them out.
 
furrystump said:
There are shorty headers that stop it from popping the studs. They are direct bolt in stainless steel. I had to replace the studs twice and finally had enough and went with the headers. Problem solved. If you do the job I would not try and drill the bolts for an easy out. There is water pretty close. I would borrow a welder or have someone weld a nut on the broken stud. Then slowly turn them out.
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I use my mig, and tack weld a nub big enough to grab with vise grips. After attempting to weld nuts on numerous times, the nub is faster. And more heat gets into stud.
 
furrystump said:
There are shorty headers that stop it from popping the studs. They are direct bolt in stainless steel. I had to replace the studs twice and finally had enough and went with the headers. Problem solved. If you do the job I would not try and drill the bolts for an easy out. There is water pretty close. I would borrow a welder or have someone weld a nut on the broken stud. Then slowly turn them out.
Click to expand...
I tried that on my 13 with bbk shorties. I never could get them to seal right and still had the tick. After changing the gasket a few times I went back to manifolds. Drilling a broken stud out is way easier and faster then replacing a gasket with headers on the newer ones.
Op, want a set of header's?
 
Tooljunkie said:
I use my mig, and tack weld a nub big enough to grab with vise grips. After attempting to weld nuts on numerous times, the nub is faster. And more heat gets into stud.
Click to expand...
Would those studs not be seized into the head that would require heating the head around the stud?
 
some of them came out with ease. The ones that were broke off flush or below the surface I built them up with the mig and welded a small bolt to them and the heat from the weld assisted in removal. None of the ones I removed were frozen in the head
 
Welding to the broken off bolts is definitely the best way to go. I start by building a bump on the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to that.
 
CFD244 said:
Would those studs not be seized into the head that would require heating the head around the stud?
Click to expand...
No. Usually not. Studs threaded in, and they break at the shoulder. I drilled hundreds out before i got enough nerve to weld. Not ever drilling again.
 
Definitely agree on the broken exhaust studs. I’ve done them twice now on my 2010 Ram. I used the trick of welding a nut to the broken stud in the head.
 
Garethw said:
Definitely agree on the broken exhaust studs. I’ve done them twice now on my 2010 Ram. I used the trick of welding a nut to the broken stud in the head.
Click to expand...
When I Worked for The railroad I did this hundreds of times on broken studs. It worked every single time. If you can get at the bolt with a welder it's simple. Just fill up the inside of the nut with weld and the bolt will get red hot. Let it cool for about a minute and then turn it off. It's easier than it sounds. :thumbsup:
 
The stock replacement gaskets sealed fine. The ones that came with the headers were junk.
 
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