Time for sub frame connectors

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HemiTM

HemiTM

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Twice today while I was launching from the line, my trunk flew open. At first I was stumped. Then it clicked. My 60 foot times have gone from 2.06 to 1.90. I have yet to put sub frame connectors on this car. I think when I launch the car is twisting and allowing the trunk to open. I could be wrong about this. But it`s the only thing I can think of that would cause this. Any thoughts??
 
Sounds like your car is already twisted.Best to put conectors in before its your rear window shattering or popping out.The connectors will also help with your 60ft times.
 
Yeah I believe your right about needing them.... like day before yesterday. lol
 
Put jackstands under both sides of the k frame, and under both sides, in front of the front leafs. Get a 2x4 and a 4 or 6 foot level; level across both front fenders, using shims on the stands. Same for the rear, avross both rear fenders.

Then put level on door sills, level from front to rear with shims on stands. OK, this is how it was born at the factory.

Now, find some points to measure from, to a level floor(bottom of front sub, both sides, same with rear) 1/2 difference ? Put a 3/4" shim under the low stand, and weld in the connectors.
 
green1 said:
Put jackstands under both sides of the k frame, and under both sides, in front of the front leafs. Get a 2x4 and a 4 or 6 foot level; level across both front fenders, using shims on the stands. Same for the rear, avross both rear fenders.

Then put level on door sills, level from front to rear with shims on stands. OK, this is how it was born at the factory.

Now, find some points to measure from, to a level floor(bottom of front sub, both sides, same with rear) 1/2 difference ? Put a 3/4" shim under the low stand, and weld in the connectors.
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Great advice. I will be purchasing connectors before I hit the track again.
 
If it is already twisted as Scott suggested...and it sounds like it might be, it would be best to get it on a frame machine and find out first. Might be easier to have it straightened without the connectors in place....IF it's twisted.
 
I've had sub frame connectors sitting at my friend's shop for about 5 years, that never got done. I got my warning recently when my rear shock support broke loose on one side, and I found stress cracks in the trunk floor and rear floor hump area. Took some welding to fix it all, and the connectors are in it now, I did it myself.

If you guys are making power do it right away, don't wait.
 
Not being familiar with frame straightening machines. Is there a certain type of machine that I should look for a shop to have?
 
HemiTM said:
Not being familiar with frame straightening machines. Is there a certain type of machine that I should look for a shop to have?
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You might can simply get a shop to take what's called dedicated measurements. All cars have holes at various places in the frame or unibody where cross measurements are taken from, to check what's called a "diamond" situation. That's where the car's frame rails are essentially a paralellogram (diamond) instead of a rectangle. The holes are recognizable because they have a "lip" that protrudes into the hole all the way around the hole's perimiter. There are special tools designed to fit into those holes for the measurement to be taken from. If you can find what the spec is supposed to be for your car, you might can even do it yourself.
 
pettybludart said:
I made my own connectors,cost was $22 in materials from my local Metal Supermarket.
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exactly...

just "flange" out the front and 45 the rear... easy pezy

look next to the fuel pump for the rear
 

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As far as checking for twist, don't rule out your local community college. You could get it put on a frame rack and pulled back to factory specs for next to nothing.

Sure it will mostly done by students but they will be guided and under the eye of professionals with decades of experience.

I think my school charges $1 (Yes, ONE dollar) for basic frame straightening.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
As far as checking for twist, don't rule out your local community college. You could get it put on a frame rack and pulled back to factory specs for next to nothing.

Sure it will mostly done by students but they will be guided and under the eye of professionals with decades of experience.

I think my school charges $1 (Yes, ONE dollar) for basic frame straightening.
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That's a fantabulous idea. They usually have the latest equipment, too.
 
Easy to do and does not cost much. Will only help and you "may" even see better 60 foot times from it. Cost me around 20 bucks to make mine. I put them through the floor for extra strangth and will also land the down bar from the main hoop on te top of the connector.
 

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Sub frame connectors are in. The shop that installed them was very impressed with Seymour_Scamps craftsmanship. Also put in a line lock and moved the battery to the trunk along with a push / pull switch to cut off the battery and altenator. Almost ready for the racing season!!
 
HemiTM said:
Sub frame connectors are in. The shop that installed them was very impressed with Seymour_Scamps craftsmanship. Also put in a line lock and moved the battery to the trunk along with a push / pull switch to cut off the battery and altenator. Almost ready for the racing season!!
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Was the car twisted?
 
just wondering, how much does a shop charge to see if the frame is bent/twisted, and how much would it be to fix it? lol
 
HemiTM said:
Great advice. I will be purchasing connectors before I hit the track again.
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all you need is some thick wall 2x2 square tubing...

if i remember two peices at 45" but dont count on that...

ok so the front you flare out, make a slice in each corner, bend three of the tabs 90*, the one you dont bend is the bottom...

now 45 cut the other end to match the rear subframe angle... weld and go...

if the car is very tweaked or has SS springs do it on jack stands and get it in square again
 

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2"x3", cut the floor.....if you decide/need to put a cage in it at some point you will have a good solid anchor for the main hoop....
 
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