Time to buy a radiator for my 440 Dart

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440DART1970

1970 Dart 446ci Swinger
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1970 Dodge door going from a slant 6 to a big block 440
I'm looking for and aluminum radiator ...what do you recommend and do you have part numbers??
I see quite a bit of people have used Champion radiators
 
I would recommend AGAINST a Griffin radiator. about 8 years ago I paid $1000 for one of their perfect fit radiators. It does look very nice, but it worked no better than the stock 2 row standard radiator the car came with. It is supposedly good for 600 HP, but it barely cools my 375 HP 340.
 
I bought the Champion CC374 radiator for my 74 Duster w small block. The car had 22" radiator original, and Champ fits in the opening OK. There are 3 rows of tubes on each side that are covered by front sheetmetal, but I had a 26" mopar rad in there before and it cooled great with 500 hp. There is 1/8" clearance from hood to top of cap when closing hood. I made sure the bottom sheetmetal of front yoke was flat with no bends or humps to hold radiator up to high. I have just fit it and waiting for new fan blade before I start car.
 
I would recommend AGAINST a Griffin radiator. about 8 years ago I paid $1000 for one of their perfect fit radiators. It does look very nice, but it worked no better than the stock 2 row standard radiator the car came with. It is supposedly good for 600 HP, but it barely cools my 375 HP 340.
I`ve got a griffin 28x19- 1/1/4-2 row-crossflow, in my barracuda, the car fell off the floor jack and bent the radiator and front valence up about 1 1/4'. I straightened the valence and repainted it. the radiator is doing fine, no leaks. aprox. 700h.p., back up elec. cooling fan (in front) is set to come on at 200, it hasn't come on yet. 17" belt driven mech fan w/ shroud behing the rad.. was a universal ,had to relocate the mounting flanges. is about 4-5yrs old now, car is just finished.
 
1970 Dodge door going from a slant 6 to a big block 440
I'm looking for and aluminum radiator ...what do you recommend and do you have part numbers??
I see quite a bit of people have used Champion radiators
Champion radiators sadly are priced so reasonably affordable because they're not made in the US. That said, they do seem to work pretty well. I will be using one myself when it gets time.

I have used a Be Cool radiator before in my old Charger but those are extremely pricey.
 
I have used a Be Cool radiator before in my old Charger but those are extremely pricey.

they are but they are beautiful and work flawlessly. Also of note they are made for our cars.

I've run 2 cars with these
 
I read a recent post about a brand of aluminum radiators that advertise "drop in", but did not go in easy... Too tall and would bottom out on the radiator support, and the bolt pattern did not match the factory mounting....

Do your homework before buying....
 
I read a recent post about a brand of aluminum radiators that advertise "drop in", but did not go in easy... Too tall and would bottom out on the radiator support, and the bolt pattern did not match the factory mounting....

Do your homework before buying....
what brand was that?
 
I went with a Champion 4 Row. Had to drill 2 driver side holes, as they didn't match the factory holes. Other than that, the radiator has been working flawlessly with a 16" Spal electric fan (also sourced through Champion).

20170311_140406_zpsl46iovib.jpg
 
Just an FYI, at least for the big block guys. Twin fans work a heck of a lot better especially the fitment.
 
But my water pump comes out drivers side,...minus the power steering pump now that I went manual steering.
20170216_221851.jpg
 
Be Cool makes models for us with inlets and outlets on the sides you require.
 
what do you guys think about a 2-Row Core: 1" Thick Tubes | 600hp Rating for my 440 This is what Wendy at Champion radiators suggested

I was told it will hold 600+ HP

AE2375
American Eagle All Aluminum Radiator
2-Row Core: 1" Thick Tubes | 600hp Rating

Radiator Dimensions:
Total:
20" tall (21" with cap) x 25.63" wide (with brackets)
Core: 16" tall x 22.25" wide x 2.25" thick
Inlet: 1.5" passenger side
Outlet: 1.75" driver side
Tanks: 2.75"
Tubes: 1" thick

Bracket Mounted
(
No OEM Shroud support)

Radiator Cap included
Transmission Cooler included (1/8- 27NPT)
Aluminum shroud for 2-10" Electric Fans is also available (sold separately)

Note: This radiator is shorter than OEM (to fit multiple mopar cars)

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itle=990202&logo=ffffff&link=1f2db4&picture.image.url=%2Ffiles%2F3542644%2Fuploaded%2F2375_specs.jpg
 
I`ve got a griffin 28x19- 1/1/4-2 row-crossflow, in my barracuda, the car fell off the floor jack and bent the radiator and front valence up about 1 1/4'. I straightened the valence and repainted it. the radiator is doing fine, no leaks. aprox. 700h.p., back up elec. cooling fan (in front) is set to come on at 200, it hasn't come on yet. 17" belt driven mech fan w/ shroud behing the rad.. was a universal ,had to relocate the mounting flanges. is about 4-5yrs old now, car is just finished.
when I bought this rad., they assured me it would cool 800 h.p., I don`t have 800 but it seems to work so far. to the op, 1 1/4 tubes will cool more than 1" tubes.
I also had a 3000 cfm elec. fan at one time , it wouldn`t keep my 505 cool .
 
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there are so many things that can affect cooling it can be hard to blame any one component.I had a 340 Duster that ran hot despite many attempts to get it to run cool.I purchased the Griffin muscle car rad and it solved my cooling problems.It had big half inch tig welds everywhere but looked great otherwise.There must have been complaints because now those rads have welds that are very small and neat,almost like original soldered tanks.Once the aluminum is painted black they are very nice.
 
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