Timing Chain Cover Replacement

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oldjunk

oldjunk

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Getting ready to replace my timing chain cover due to a leaking gasket. Picked up a used one anticipating heavy corrosion behind my current cover. The used one I picked up is in great shape, hell its even date code correct! But after cleaning it up, I noticed the block mating surface isn't flat on one side. I put a straight edge on one side of the cover and can rock it back and forth pretty good. Is this a really big deal when I go to re-assemble? Should I use some type of sealant in addition to the gasket? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Car is a '72 plymouth duster 340
 
have not used a gasket on the timing chain cover in 20 plus years....use only RTV...same on the water pump.....
 
My plan was to use an aviation glue in addition to the gasket. You think just red RTV with work?
 
Replace it. Brand new units available for around $50.-$75. Use sealants around water passages and bolts that go into water jackets. Sealant is not a warped part Band-Aid .
 
How do you guys handle the rubber oil pan gasket? Is it actually possible to do just the timing cover without messing with the oil pan?
 
well..you got two bolts that come up thru the oil pan into the cover...

putting the cover back on will engage the front seal on the pan
 
MoparLeo said:
Replace it. Brand new units available for around $50.-$75. Use sealants around water passages and bolts that go into water jackets. Sealant is not a warped part Band-Aid .
Click to expand...

Yeah, I tend to agree. I may just end up buying a new one.

When installing the cover, should I use some sort of long spacers (with the bolts) in place of the wp and let the sealer/gasket set up. Then once the sealers is done curing, remove the wp bolts/spacers, install the water pump and re-torque all bolts to spec? Also read to install the balancer before tightening the cover bolts to properly align the cover crank seal.
 
You can just install the water-pump and timing cover at the same time. Especially when using a new cover, you will need very little gasket sealer. The timing cover will self center unlike some modern engines that use a crank driven oil pump. On the modern engines shims are used to center the cover on the crank snout. Not used on the older type engines. Just make sure to use a sealer designed to be used in water for the water pump bolts that go into the water jackets in the block.
 
Thanks for all the replies! Just one more thing I was concerned with...Is it necessary to loosen any of the pan bolts when re-installing the cover? Just don't want to cause any more leaks. Also don't want to run the risk of warping the pan if I don't have to. Thanks!
 
oldjunk said:
Thanks for all the replies! Just one more thing I was concerned with...Is it necessary to loosen any of the pan bolts when re-installing the cover? Just don't want to cause any more leaks. Also don't want to run the risk of warping the pan if I don't have to. Thanks!
Click to expand...


NO
 
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