Timing Cover Gasket Replacement

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LH23H2R

LH23H2R

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I'm having to replace the timing cover gasket set on my 1972 318 , and am wondering if there's anything to *watch* for ; any tricks or tips .

The prior owner replaced the timing chain itself ( yes , the motor holds timing just fine ; doesn't jump-around or anything as such ) just before I got the car 6 years and 50,000 miles ago .

I'm needing to replace these gaskets for the simple fact that a few leaks have sprung up , because I've had to replace 2 water pumps
( the one that was on the motor when I got the car took a dump 4 years ago ; its replacement took a dump because the shaft popped-out of the bearing ; the newest pump is 10 months old and is working just fine ).

As I'm certain you're aware , removing the water pump that frequently causes the timing cover-to-block gasket to weaken and possibly tear ; that's what happened with the one on mine :book: .

Never-the-less ...
It's been a number of years since I've even removed / replaced the gaskets on a small block MoPar ; and due to age , time and other variables , I've forgotten torque specs , what adhesives to use
( Gask-a-Cinch ? ) , and whether or not the harmonic balancer needs to be removed for access .

Thanks much for your time and considerations .:drinkers:
 
You do have to pull the balancer. Other than that the only problem I've seen is sometimes the aluminum timing cover gets corroded and pitted. I've used RTV, shellac, and copper coat all with good results. If the timing cover is pitted I use RTV because it fills in pitting better. I also put a little pipe dope on the bolts that go into the water jacket just to make sure nothing leaks.
 
Thanks much for your reply and tips !
Good reminder about the pipe dope for the bolts that intercede the coolant passages !
 
I also will loosen the the pan bolts (3 back) from the front just so the pan will drop down . so when you install the new gasket it seams that the cover goes on a little easer.
 
AJ71DUSTER said:
I also will loosen the the pan bolts (3 back) from the front just so the pan will drop down . so when you install the new gasket it seams that the cover goes on a little easer.
Click to expand...

Good call . I was wondering how much better / easier it would be to do that , so as to avoid new leaks from the front main seal area .:drinkers:
 
does anyone know the torque specs for the timing cover ? Is it just hand-tight (via a ratchet , of course ) and tightened in a star-type pattern ?

I know that there's 3-4 bolts at the cover's base , plus the ~6 bolts which retain the water pump , as well as ~7 bolts at the oil pan ; is there a torquing-sequence ?
I don't want to go too crazy , as the cover and the pump housing are aluminum .

Thanks !
 
As per my 1970 service manual it is 30 ft. lbs. for the water pump bolts and 35 ft. lbs for the timing cover bolts. The oil pan bolts are 200 inch lbs. I'd do them in a criss cross pattern also.
 
I use Permatex Ultra Black (aerosol can). Those damn cork gaskets on the pan are a pain. I use Brakecleen to spray away any bit of oil (after scraping the old gasket off) then install the timing cover using the Permatex. I do not use the cork gaskets ever. After its installed I fill the void with the permatex. Let it dry overnight and your good to go. I've never had one leak.

Jim
 
MVRCorp said:
I use Permatex Ultra Black (aerosol can). Those damn cork gaskets on the pan are a pain. I use Brakecleen to spray away any bit of oil (after scraping the old gasket off) then install the timing cover using the Permatex. I do not use the cork gaskets ever. After its installed I fill the void with the permatex. Let it dry overnight and your good to go. I've never had one leak.

Jim
Click to expand...

What problems have you had with cork gaskets Jim? I rarely have any problem with them except for the end seals on the intake. I just use RTV there.
 
Thanks guys !

I was thinking of using Gasket-Cinch [sp?] on the timing cover's gaskets and water pump gasket , with black hi-temp RTV on the oil pan tabs ; good call on filling any voids in the pan's end tabs with the RTV .

Thanks to fishy68 for the torque specs and the confirmation of cross-torquing the bolts .

Thanks to MVRCorp the head's-up on the RTV applications(s).
I've not had any problems with cork , either ( I know you said that you do , and you're not alone ) . I think that cork gaskets are commonly mis-applied , vis-a-vis people using either too much ( too thick of an application ) silicone , or just plain using it ; valve cover gaskets being the prime example .
However , those pesky intake rail gaskets do require a certain amount of RTV , especially a liberal-amount at the rail-gasket-to-head junction .

Anyone know why 318's , et al. , have such a verocious appetite for intake gaskets ??
 
.............May as well put in a new timing chain+gears...make sure u only put sealer/silicone on 1 side of the gaskets, otherwise they will want to slip out when u tork them.....have u ever checked the torque on the intake bolts?................kim........
 
I am replacing the timing cover on my 340 because of a gasket leak. I am also installing a new ATI Super Damper. I am looking for the proper procedure as far as to how and when to tighten down the timing cover. I believe the timing cover has to be put in place loose so the Super Damper can line up the front seal on the crank shaft properly, but I am concerned with the material used as a seal drying before I get the Super Damper in place? I never did this operation before- so I read and ask questions. Looking for advise.
 
Spoody said:
I am replacing the timing cover on my 340 because of a gasket leak. I am also installing a new ATI Super Damper. I am looking for the proper procedure as far as to how and when to tighten down the timing cover. I believe the timing cover has to be put in place loose so the Super Damper can line up the front seal on the crank shaft properly, but I am concerned with the material used as a seal drying before I get the Super Damper in place? I never did this operation before- so I read and ask questions. Looking for advise.
Click to expand...


Put the long 6" bolrs for the water pump in fist to set the up/down movement, then go for the bottom bolts that come from the oil pan from below to help set it closer to the block, making sure that you don't knock them off alignment (I would recommend using gaska-cinch to help it stick in place). Then put the other bolts in that are below the water pump and torque them as you can't get to the one behind the lower radiator outlet when you install the water pump.

Then put the water pump on and torque the rest of the bolts to 30 ft*lb.

Then put the balancer on once the cover is in place...


Here's a link for how the parts under the timing cover are assembled if you are going that far. It wouldn't hurt to check that the galley plugs are installed behind your camshaft thrust plate, and also that you have a good oil to the timing chain by not blocking the hole that feeds it oil and have the proper oil tab:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=287231
 
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