Timing cover pitting.

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chorty55

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Anyone notice or experience this?

Antifreeze I drained out looked brand new.

Its mighty thin and close in that one corner.

I plan to run new 50/50.

Curious why it eroded, or if this was like this since the cover was off.

Doesn't look recent

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Very common issue, because no one ever uses distilled water like the factories all recommended.
 
woof. i'd be looking for a new/used one.

such a pain in the dick to do that job if it goes all sideways. ounce of prevention and all that.
 
Ouch!

If you get significant water in your oil, it can
destroy your engine.
Plenty for sale on here and they are not expensive.
 
Hope you're being sarcastic.



But I kinda get you...I mean sometimes I don't mind getting tied up and whipped and my balls stepped on (or for you an oil pan full of water)
 
Use it at your own peril. Once aluminum begins to corrode, it doesn't stop. There's no way to neutralize it that I know of. That's why when carburetors get corroded that badly, the trash can is where they go. There' no bringing that back.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Every single radiator out there needs a zinc anode.


Fluidyne High Performance ACC.ANODE Fluidyne Zinc Anodes | Summit Racing

This will stop that. But you should still be using distilled water on top of the anode.

Or you can use Evan’s coolant. And still use the anode.
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Glad to hear someone else recommending this- I got raked over the coals for suggesting it a couple years ago. I put 'em in the block drains just as "an ounce of prevention". Cheap insurance, available at any marine dealer. With the prevalence of aluminum parts being added to the cooling circuit (manifolds, heads, radiators, etc.) it becomes even more critical. Dissimilar metals- iron blocks and aluminum heads, manifolds, t.c.s and rads-equals accelerated corrosion. Distilled water and a proper coolant mixture seals the deal.
 
I'm kinda sarcastic, at the same time I'm not. But there's sooooo much elbow room.

It didn't leak before. I'm actually more concerned of the gobs of ****, crud, and what all else that fell into the oil pan. Little bolt hole and drippy drippy isn't going to drain all that.

Oh well. We'll see what the pick up screen can stop, what the pump will grind, and thats what they make filters for!!! Lots of seamfoam! Good thing I ordered a new glycerin pressure gauge.

Start betting with the bennys boys!!!. I'm curious how far this is going to go!

New gaskets, pump, chain/gear, main seal, and thermostat.

Apparently there was a thermostat delet too. Open throat for 40 years. Going with a 160* and a 185* electric fan setup.

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and make sure you have a good ground cable and clean ground ,electrolist (wish i could spell) plays havock on your cooling system
 
I understand the rotor doesn't care who is #1, just as long as the firing order is honored, but why are the dots on the can and crank both ontop and not pointing towards each other?

That's kinda weird

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Oh, and yeah, I can easily make a tooth and a half before the cam begins to turn. Its so worn I'm surprised I didn't make it jump a tooth the last time I was roudy with it.
 
I normally not only clean the area I am going to disassemble as good as possible to avoid stuff falling in,
If the work involves the distributor/Harmonic Balancer I also set the balancer to TDC on the compression stroke, verified with the ignition rotor and mark the location of the distributor housing before taking anything apart.
No wondering where anything was.
And if it is in the car and has a battery, disconnect both terminals, starting with the ground wire.

top view oil pumpdrive 318.jpg


318 firing order diagram.jpg
 

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It was running before disassembly. Its not that random of a tear down.

Dana67Dart said:
Cam timing and ignition timing are two different things
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Oh man. I can't wait to get it dialed in. I'd love to lay down all the torque in 2nd gear. 7 mph instead of 4.

I kept breaking those little pee wee portals on humvees, so I went with Yale straight axle planetaries with closed knuckles.

Huge difference.

The best gain? It gave me the ability to run 24" rims!
 
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Real men use tooth brushes. And no oil pressure gauge.
Hahahahha.

40 years, never knew what the oil pressure has been

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Do not use distilled water, its use causes additional corrosion of the coolings system parts and block.
Use deionized water or softened water instead, or buy the premixed which uses the correct water.
If you use a sacrificial anode, make sure to check and replaces them often, as the sacrificial part can get corroded and break off and do damage to the impeller and cover, or block a water passage.
 
4eighteener said:
Do not use distilled water, its use causes additional corrosion of the coolings system parts and block.
Use deionized water or softened water instead, or buy the premixed which uses the correct water.
If you use a sacrificial anode, make sure to check and replaces them often, as the sacrificial part can get corroded and break off and do damage to the impeller and cover, or block a water passage.
Click to expand...
Yup. Adding a tee for an elbow and threaded some magnesium in it.
 
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