Timing Gear/Chain Replacement

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Divenut

Divenut

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Hey Folks,

Hope everyone's making through this never ending winter. (Woke up to ANOTHER dusting of snow today LOL!) However, looks like weather's finally breaking here in Northern IL. So the girls and I are gonna get back to work on the Duster. We're going to be repairing a nagging oil pan leak and while it's off, replace what I'm guessing is a stretched timing chain (hear it slapping the cover). We'll be removing the radiator for more room etc (need to drain it any way to remove headers :pukerigh:). Ordered a replacement chain & gear set, gaskets for the cover, water pump, oil pan etc. Any tips, tricks that may help? Any pitfalls to avoid? Thanks in advance for any assistance you gurus may be able to provide. The car is a 72 w/340.

Be well,
Pat & Family
 
It's not easy to change an oil pan gasket in the car. Maybe pull the engine. It's also difficult to move the headers around when the engine is in there also.

Yes, I got some dusting also.
 
I soak the chain in heavy gear oil before installing. Yeah it drips, gets messy. Better than waiting for the engine to oil it in my opinion.
 
krazykuda said:
It's not easy to change an oil pan gasket in the car. Maybe pull the engine. It's also difficult to move the headers around when the engine is in there also.

Yes, I got some dusting also.
Click to expand...


Hey Karl, thanks for the quick reply. Don't know about you, but I am sooo ready for Spring! I hear you about the pain it is to drop the pan with the motor in the car. Did it last summer during that heat wave (100 + in the garage "mistake". Screwed up and failed to let the RTV cure enough before slapping the pan back on "mistake!" and getting leaks from rear corner :banghead:. Good news is this time everything is clean/new and free of years of rust and corrosion, all new fasteners etc so everything should come apart pretty easily. And having done it once, I am not as clueless as to what needs to be done this time around. Would love to have the space to pull the motor, but the garage is just too darn tight (Maybe some day momma will let me build that dream garage.) We'll get the car up nice and high like last time. We were able to pull the headers out the bottom w/o having to jack up the motor or anything.

Pat
 
RedFish said:
I soak the chain in heavy gear oil before installing. Yeah it drips, gets messy. Better than waiting for the engine to oil it in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Good idea. :D

What about just installing it dry, then after installing the oil pan, hit it with a few squirts of oil/STP/Motor Honey from an oil can, and let it drip into the pan. Then put the front of the engine together. This may save a mess and still accomplish the end result...
 
Divenut said:
I hear you about the pain it is to drop the pan with the motor in the car. Did it last summer during that heat wave (100 + in the garage "mistake". Screwed up and failed to let the RTV cure enough before slapping the pan back on "mistake!" and getting leaks from rear corner :banghead:.
Pat
Click to expand...

My son and I just had the opposite problem with his 360 oil pan on the engine stand.

We let the RTV dry and then it would not "squish" enough to let us get the pan in place. We then cleaned it all off and started over.

We then installed the pan shortly after applying the RTV, so the excess was soft enough to "squish" out while we tightened the bolts. It was very difficult to align and get the bolts in when the RTV cured on the end gaskets (we put them on one day, then had an issue, so stopped to take a break and think it over for a couple of days).
 
hi, we soak chains in motor oil before installing. reason is, oil can get inside the rollers. then its lubed all way through. chains will last a lot longer!
 
perfacar said:
hi, we soak chains in motor oil before installing. reason is, oil can get inside the rollers. then its lubed all way through. chains will last a lot longer!
Click to expand...


Ok, good point.
 
perfacar said:
hi, we soak chains in motor oil before installing. reason is, oil can get inside the rollers. then its lubed all way through. chains will last a lot longer!
Click to expand...

Good idea, I just replaced my chain with a double roller chain. I did not soak it in oil and when I started my truck, the chain was ticking for a couple of minutes. I did not like the way that sounded, it went away slowly. I will soak my chain next time.
 
Here's a few suggestions:

You can check that the chain oiler is working. It's the top thrust plate bolt with the hole in it on the passenger side.

Check the condition of your fuel pump eccentric. Lube it.

Centerline your cam.

Add a chain tensioner.

Modify the way your chain is oiled, easy to do.

Check for a crankshaft oil slinger. I read where it helps lube the eccentric !

Change the crank seal in the Timing Cover and apply some silicone to the O.D. before you install it in the cover.

Lubricate the seal and the O.D. of the damper hub. Neverseeze the I.D. of the hub and crank before installation.

Clean gasket mating surfaces with lacquer thinner, cement gasket to cover, apply sealer to the block side of gasket.

Then when you are bolting down the timing cover, to leave it loose, until the damper is installed through the seal, then tighten and TQ cover bolts.

Add dab of sealer to Woodruff key just before damper installation.

Like you, I have to do the same thing next week.

Divenut, Are you near Koller Dodge, are they still in business ? I bought an engine from them.
 
70 DUSTER CRATE said:
Here's a few suggestions:

You can check that the chain oiler is working. It's the top thrust plate bolt with the hole in it on the passenger side.

Check the condition of your fuel pump eccentric. Lube it.

Centerline your cam.

Add a chain tensioner.

Modify the way your chain is oiled, easy to do.

Check for a crankshaft oil slinger. I read where it helps lube the eccentric !

Change the crank seal in the Timing Cover and apply some silicone to the O.D. before you install it in the cover.

Lubricate the seal and the O.D. of the damper hub. Neverseeze the I.D. of the hub and crank before installation.

Clean gasket mating surfaces with lacquer thinner, cement gasket to cover, apply sealer to the block side of gasket.

Then when you are bolting down the timing cover, to leave it loose, until the damper is installed through the seal, then tighten and TQ cover bolts.

Add dab of sealer to Woodruff key just before damper installation.

Like you, I have to do the same thing next week.

Divenut, Are you near Koller Dodge, are they still in business ? I bought an engine from them.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips 70 Duster. I believe Koller sold to Naperville Dodge/Jeep awhile back.

Pat
 
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