I am working on a 68 340 with a bolt on sheet metal timing mark. With this kind of set up, does it matter which timing chain cover I get to replace my about to fail cover?
Timing mark
- Thread starter dodgedude37
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Perfect time to find out true TDC. Piston stop method.
Install pointer and get the proper sized/length timing tape.
Install pointer and get the proper sized/length timing tape.
All 3 timing covers will work.
68 and down
69
70 and up.
70 up will just have an extra cast in mark on the driver's side that will not align to the 69 down balancer
68 and down
69
70 and up.
70 up will just have an extra cast in mark on the driver's side that will not align to the 69 down balancer
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Not sure what you're referring to, I don't have a problem with tdc or timing. My problem is a timing cover on the verge of failing to transfer water to & from the pump. The question if I put a cover with timing mark on the drivers side & bolt on sheetmetal degree on the passenger side will it work?
Thank you that is what I was looking for. That way if I don't find good old stock, I can go to rockauto & get brand new cover.
Water pump outlets will change sides, so add a new radiator to the parts list.
Water pump outlet is water pump specific not timing cover dependent
You can put a 69 down cast iron wp on a 70 up cover and a 70 up Aluminum wp on a 69 down cover
I just learned something, thanks.
Its been probably 30 years since I had the older style.
Thanks am aware of this, currently it's a 68 motor In a 70 car with a different radiator. I am returning back to a 70 look regarding radiator hose orientation. I wouldn't have even messed with timing cover, except two of the long water pump bolts had trouble coming out so I wanted to run a tap in all the holes.
Just saying that since you are changing to a non stock type pinter, this would be a great time to verify the true tdc.
This takes more time than money and is good info on tuning your engine.
Just an FYI.
This takes more time than money and is good info on tuning your engine.
Just an FYI.
It's not non stock, it's pre 69. Before 69 there was no cast timing marks, they were all bolt on.
I think what Mopar Leo is saying is while your there might as well check the damper to be sure it has not moved.
I don't think anything has moved, but it wouldn't hurt to check. But then what if I do need a new balancer?
What do you do when any part is bad?
Not all sources has pre 69 balancers. Rock auto doesn'tWhat do you do when any part is bad?
You can make your own mark on the balancer or use timing tape like previously suggested if you can't get a new 69 balancer.
PROSTOCKTOM has really nice "Fluid Filled" HB's for sale at a great price.(Because you can't say FluidDamper). I just bought one, and it's a great piece for few dollars.
Thanks
If you are returning the car to 70 spec....
You need
- 1970 up front accessory brackets
- 1970 up aluminum water pump
- 1970 up timing cover
- 1970 up balancer (or make your own slot at TDC on the driver's side timing mark, the 69 down timing mark will not line up on the 70 up cover on any cylinder. (I have that setup on my 67 273)
- 1970 up rad with passenger side lower radiator hose (70 up rads are kind of boxy compared to 69 down)
With the correct diameter timing tape, you can make your own TDC location.
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cudamark
Well-Known Member
No, unless visual differences are a concern.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Late '68 started the cast-in timing marks on the passenger side.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Add crank and water pump pulleys to the list too. The whole front end of the engine changed between '69 and '70.
I have found I can't use my sheetmetal timing mark, with the water neck on the passenger side. So am I correct in assuming the keyway on the crank is clocked the same, & the difference is the mounting of the outer part of balancer, & the method of crank manufacturing?
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