timing?

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bignasty123

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ok tommarrow is gonna be a little tuning for my new solid cammed motor..mopar 408 eddy heads mp590 solid cam carb shop 750 dp msd ign..what do u gurus run for intial and advanced by chance? just want to get a balpark?
 
20-24* Initial ; 32-34* all in at 2800-3200 RPM. Do not use the Vac Advance, un plug it cap it and do not run it at all.
 
thanks any more oppinions feel free....love to forums can always get loads of help for free..thanks guys
 
I have mine set at 32 and haven't had time to really experiment with it. I have heard that these strokers don't like a lot of advance though.
 
Does that much initial cause kick back on cranking?

No not at all. Almost all SBM Strokers Enjoy this much Initial Timing. You can Lock out the Distributor and set the timing at 34*, it will for for sure start to drag the starter down like that. A Start Retard/Cranking Feature in your ignition box would be a good thing to have doing it locked out.
 
No not at all. Almost all SBM Strokers Enjoy this much Initial Timing. You can Lock out the Distributor and set the timing at 34*, it will for for sure start to drag the starter down like that. A Start Retard/Cranking Feature in your ignition box would be a good thing to have doing it locked out.

or you can crack the throttle a little bit also and it cost nothing unlike a crank retard box
 
or you can crack the throttle a little bit also and it cost nothing unlike a crank retard box

Agreed that would work. If you have a High Compression engine and alot of initial or locked timing. You still may need/benefit from having the cranking retard feature. Most guys who have alot of time and money into their engines have a good ignition system that has this feature, "most of the time".
 
Put a light and vacuum gauge on it. Advance to the best vacuum, de-creasing idle, and adjusting idle mix screws, until tou get the best advance.

Shut it off, and re-start; sluggish/kick back; retard until it starts ok when hot. That's what it wants at initial. Then time to run it, check for ping. Couple degrees under ping; read total. Then play with total advance in dissy,

Gas will change, humidity and temp will change, needed timing will change, etc.
 
Not a good explaination; then you have to see what you changed the intial to, then do whatever, usually lowering mech advance in the dist. To bring the inial back up.
 
Not a good explaination; then you have to see what you changed the intial to, then do whatever, usually lowering mech advance in the dist. To bring the inial back up.

The OP's combination has been done so many times I guarantee that the initial and all in timing settings will land within the guidelines that I posted. I am willing to put some serious cash on it. Are you??
 
For a stroker I like 18-20° initial, no more than 30° total.
 
I guess I'm old fashion, I have my 408 set at 14 base,32 mechanical(all in by 2500)and vacuum hooked up with a total of 50.I believe all three parts of the distributor should work.Just another opinion for you.
 
I've got a 408 w 10.5 cr. Initial set at 17 degree and total at 35 deg. It starts a little hard when hot but runs great.
 
I have mine locked at 34°...starts easy, works great.
 
The OP posted this in the Racers Forum so I figure this was a max effort question.
Yes you can tune your vehicle all kinds of ways from being conservative to squeezing every bit out of it. Who races their car with the VAC Advance hooked up?? Nobody I know. Why stroke your engine to be conservative is my question?? Sounds like an oxymoron or a play on words at its finest. "Waste of an engine"! Kind of like the guy who has 1000HP beautiful car with all the go fast goodies who idles it everywhere or trailers it to car shows never cracking the throttle open unless he is parked in Neutral... "Waste"
 
Maddart yes max effort....Oh and btw its msd no vac in it at all
 
Pump gas strokers generally do not need as much lead. Reason being a long rod long stroke hits the "sweet spot" in terms of rod/crank geometry faster. The reason there is any ignition lead is so the piston is at the right spot when the burn produces maximum pressure. Different fuels burn in more or less time, and oxygenated pump unleaded with Ethanol burns very quickly. So too much timing can "waste" that energy by peaking before the rod and crank are in the best position to use that leverage.

If this is a drag race only car, then fixed timing is fine. Run a quality fuel, and vary it by 2° increments until it slows down. You'll find the best amount of lead through repetitive testing that way. That's also why you use the log book and weather station as the perfect timing will vary depending on atmopspheric conditions. Testing for vacuum at idle doesnt help, nor does holding a steady rpm off idle and lookign at vacuum levels. The only way that would is if you were at full throttle.

If the car is driven ont he street for any length of time, IMO, it should have a properly curved ignition to take advantage of the light and part throttle situations that street driving has. Vacuum advance will give a lot better mileage, better part throttle response, and does not affect wide open performance at all. So whenever possible, I do run the vacuum. But, eventually there isnt enough adjustment in the can to cover the lower vacuum signals a big cam has and you have to scrap it.
 
Pump gas strokers generally do not need as much lead. Reason being a long rod long stroke hits the "sweet spot" in terms of rod/crank geometry faster. The reason there is any ignition lead is so the piston is at the right spot when the burn produces maximum pressure. Different fuels burn in more or less time, and oxygenated pump unleaded with Ethanol burns very quickly. So too much timing can "waste" that energy by peaking before the rod and crank are in the best position to use that leverage.

If this is a drag race only car, then fixed timing is fine. Run a quality fuel, and vary it by 2° increments until it slows down. You'll find the best amount of lead through repetitive testing that way. That's also why you use the log book and weather station as the perfect timing will vary depending on atmopspheric conditions. Testing for vacuum at idle doesnt help, nor does holding a steady rpm off idle and lookign at vacuum levels. The only way that would is if you were at full throttle.

If the car is driven ont he street for any length of time, IMO, it should have a properly curved ignition to take advantage of the light and part throttle situations that street driving has. Vacuum advance will give a lot better mileage, better part throttle response, and does not affect wide open performance at all. So whenever possible, I do run the vacuum. But, eventually there isnt enough adjustment in the can to cover the lower vacuum signals a big cam has and you have to scrap it.

Good explanation!
 
20-24* Initial ; 32-34* all in at 2800-3200 RPM. Do not use the Vac Advance, un plug it cap it and do not run it at all.

That's about where I would start.

Most of the quench style strokers I've seen like 30-32 total, rare cases get in the 28-29 range
 
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