LJ67barracuda340
Well-Known Member
question.. what are the extra fittings for on the top tank?? don't remember seeing that before.
Tip for removing radiator
- Thread starter Mako21
- Start date
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Wow!
Did he happen to mention if it was clogged before he reworked it?
New pump and hoses and you're back cruisin.
The domino effect says to remove and repaint the fan.
Did he happen to mention if it was clogged before he reworked it?
New pump and hoses and you're back cruisin.
The domino effect says to remove and repaint the fan.
Im not sure what the extra plugs at each corner of the upper radiator are for. They were and are just there. Maybe they were for some other fitting used on v8 cars? I’m sure the radiator was original to the car though. The entire car is pretty much all original.
Richard, the tech, did find issues with the old radiator. The upper neck outlet had a pinhole leak and while under pressure would start to bubble and displace coolant. The bottom neck outlet was no longer round and even with two clamps holding the hose on, it still would leak. Instead of being round, it was more of an oval letter D kind of shape. While I was shooting the radiator from the inside out with a water pistol in attempt to clear any blockages and road grime stuck in the fins I had damaged it and pretty much shot a hole through the radiator. They also re-threaded the trans cooler pickups for me as well.
I bought the car two months ago and have driven it a whopping 20 miles. So yes, hopefully with the radiator, two new upper and lower radiator hoses, the new thermostat, and drive belt will solve the overheating issues. I’m inclined to leave the water pump on for now. I will be bypassing the heater core as I don’t need it living in Miami. It’s always hot here.
Richard, the tech, did find issues with the old radiator. The upper neck outlet had a pinhole leak and while under pressure would start to bubble and displace coolant. The bottom neck outlet was no longer round and even with two clamps holding the hose on, it still would leak. Instead of being round, it was more of an oval letter D kind of shape. While I was shooting the radiator from the inside out with a water pistol in attempt to clear any blockages and road grime stuck in the fins I had damaged it and pretty much shot a hole through the radiator. They also re-threaded the trans cooler pickups for me as well.
I bought the car two months ago and have driven it a whopping 20 miles. So yes, hopefully with the radiator, two new upper and lower radiator hoses, the new thermostat, and drive belt will solve the overheating issues. I’m inclined to leave the water pump on for now. I will be bypassing the heater core as I don’t need it living in Miami. It’s always hot here.
pishta
I know I'm right....
I think the threaded fittings in these radiators up top were for thermo actuated vacuum valves. Ie when the temp got to operating levels they opened and allowed manifold.vacuum to the EGR or other warm timed things.
Dorian
dorian
one more thing to do once you get it all together. Go back to the radiatior shop and get them to do a reverse power flush on your car. Rad, heater, and engine. They use compressed air and water. Dont buy those plastic "tee's" they sell to put in your heater lines, doesnt work!
I usually just stick a straight nozzle into a heater hose connected to the block, disconnect the other heater hose too, and run the water til it comes out clean. Then open the petcock, drain best I can and put 1/2 the capacity of the cooling system in straight antifreeze and then if need be, too off from there with straight water or else some 50-50 mix
While running the water hose if I can get to the block drain I leave that out while garden hose is on. If real nasty once I get it full on water I'll put something in like iron out and let it run a while (the engine not the hose) warm up and circulate the iron out then give it He11 with the garden hose again til clear.
While running the water hose if I can get to the block drain I leave that out while garden hose is on. If real nasty once I get it full on water I'll put something in like iron out and let it run a while (the engine not the hose) warm up and circulate the iron out then give it He11 with the garden hose again til clear.
Dorian
dorian
unfortunately if you dont use compressed air and water in reverse flow you are not knocking all the buildup off and not the best way to do it. I used to own a Rad shop and that is the only way to do it properly. Remember to remove the top hose and take an old upper hose and cut it down to a 90 to use to flush.
I also recommend after you flush it with compressed air and water, to add in 7 liters of antifreeze, one per cylinder and one in the overflow then top up with water. Run to temp with the heater on and get you will usually get all the air out of the system that way.
I also recommend after you flush it with compressed air and water, to add in 7 liters of antifreeze, one per cylinder and one in the overflow then top up with water. Run to temp with the heater on and get you will usually get all the air out of the system that way.
when I have flushed with the garden hose to begin with, then added the Iron out, ran engine to temp, circulate it good, then flush again whine running til clear, I was blown away by what that stuff would work loose.... some times if I had one that was really bad I'd let a car sit overnite with straight water plus the Iron Out so it could soak in... run engine when 1st added to distribute/dilute it into the water, let sit, then warm up engine again and THEN flush once again til clear.... in 2 stages of flushing with the hose I might run 30-40 gallons of straight water thru an engine but so what? It works for me.
(hey Iron Out was made to clean boilers and radiators like youd see in an old school house and at one time Prestone used to sell a 2 part powdered radiator flush and the ingredient in Part 1 was exactly the same as in Iron Out-- Oxyllic acid-- so why not use this stuff?)
I can understand that as a shop owner you cant spend that much time on any given car and make anything.....
Ive also seen radiators so bad that no amount of on car flush would clean them.... blocks though, this stuff works pretty well.
I had 1 318 in a van once that I got a call about an antifreeze leak, wound up being a freeze plug.... once I popped that old leaking plug I saw that the leak was actually slowed by the deposit buildup in teh water jackets, the leaking liquid would have to filter thru all of this crap to eventually find its way out.
I popped all that I could get to (2 on front of block and all of them down the side) and pulled the block drains, poked my way thru those, set the hose in the water neck and gave it He11..... I flushed that one most of a day with freeze plugs out.... nastiest Mopar I have ever seen. I then wound up replacing the water pump, T stat, radiator, every coolant hose and those freeze plugs.... at least in the 70s those Dodge vans had tons of room from underneath to access teh freeze plugs.
It ran plenty cool from then on!
(hey Iron Out was made to clean boilers and radiators like youd see in an old school house and at one time Prestone used to sell a 2 part powdered radiator flush and the ingredient in Part 1 was exactly the same as in Iron Out-- Oxyllic acid-- so why not use this stuff?)
I can understand that as a shop owner you cant spend that much time on any given car and make anything.....
Ive also seen radiators so bad that no amount of on car flush would clean them.... blocks though, this stuff works pretty well.
I had 1 318 in a van once that I got a call about an antifreeze leak, wound up being a freeze plug.... once I popped that old leaking plug I saw that the leak was actually slowed by the deposit buildup in teh water jackets, the leaking liquid would have to filter thru all of this crap to eventually find its way out.
I popped all that I could get to (2 on front of block and all of them down the side) and pulled the block drains, poked my way thru those, set the hose in the water neck and gave it He11..... I flushed that one most of a day with freeze plugs out.... nastiest Mopar I have ever seen. I then wound up replacing the water pump, T stat, radiator, every coolant hose and those freeze plugs.... at least in the 70s those Dodge vans had tons of room from underneath to access teh freeze plugs.
It ran plenty cool from then on!
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
The problem with using any kind of a "GOOD" chemical flush, is there is a good chance of plugging up the new radiator.
Dorian
dorian
also be careful where that flush goes to on the ground and into the water system.
Well, I finally got a day off and got around to installing the radiator with all new hoses, heater lines, clamps and transmission cooler fittings. I only had time to let the car idle around 30 minutes by the time I finished. It ran great and got up to operating temp nicely. Tomorrow I will fine tune and drive the car to verify no leaks or air pockets.
I am disappointed with the quality of one of the heater hoses though. It nearly melted on the water pump and the clamp has gouged into it. I’m going to get a new one tomorrow to replace it. It looks ancient and had only been used 30 minutes...I tried to take a picture of it and will post here. Also the engine bay with the new lines and radiator. Hoping to detail it all tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help, hope to reports back good news in the next few days.
I am disappointed with the quality of one of the heater hoses though. It nearly melted on the water pump and the clamp has gouged into it. I’m going to get a new one tomorrow to replace it. It looks ancient and had only been used 30 minutes...I tried to take a picture of it and will post here. Also the engine bay with the new lines and radiator. Hoping to detail it all tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help, hope to reports back good news in the next few days.
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