Tips n tricks for exhaust install

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Hi all, not looking forward to this as I'll be doing this on my back, so looking for any advice you can offer.
I bought the Summit 2.5" kit(Heart Throb)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-680144.
As well as TTI 340 headpipes.
In our 67 cuda FB, console shift 340/904, 8 3/4 factory 340 hipo manifolds 2863549, 2863553.
Also using a right angle oil filter adapter.
Pretty sure that's it for required specs??
I made a lot of cribbing to raise car up, but not sure if I should use axle stands on frame, or on the diff?
Use cribbing with axle stands under diff for safety? This puts diff at ride height so over axle pipe doesnt(hopefully) get squished.
Cribbing under front tires. I'm assuming keep car as level as possible?
Exhaust should be level?
Going to buy some band clamps. Do I get 2.5", or should I buy a "stepped" version?
MOST but not all suggest starting at rear and working forward. I'm thinking ill install the TTI headpipes and then tailpipes?
I've checked Boobtube and there are some videos, but mainly regards to headers and bbodies. One from justmoparjoe was pretty good with what to watch for, altho it's in a b body. I've linked it below. I also left previous hangers installed for reference.
Thanks all.
 
If you're doing this alone Steve, make sure, regardless of all of the safety you employ that someone knows that you're working under the car and have a hydraulic trolley jack nearby. Good luck.
 
If you can get the car high enough off the floor, use some small jack stands to hold up and position the pipe. It's a really huge help.
 
If I recall correctly, that kit is made to fit your 108" wheelbase or the Dart's 111" wheelbase, the difference being whether you shorten the midpipe or not (and the size muffler you ultimately use).
I would mount up the headpipes, then loosely hang the tailpipes to make sure you've got plenty of clearance in all the right (tight) places. You may need to let the rear hang to get the pipes in, but set your position with the rear end supported.
Fit the mufflers to the tailpipes get the most clearance at your floorpan recesses, then you can determine the length your midpipes will need to be and how much to cut. Remember- measure twice, cut once.
Once it's all roughed in you can decide on your hanger layout.
Then tighten it all up, I usually work from front to back. And Rusty's absolutely right- some small jackstands or light-duty floor jacks make positioning the pipes a lot easier.
I don't envy you- I hate exhaust work too, since I don't have a lift either... these old bones take a while to get off the creeper nowadays.
 
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Hi Steve,

We did the TTi sysytem in my car ourselves and it wasn't too bad.

My suggestions in case it wasn't in the video.

1. Assemble the whole works on the floor before you install it. Way easier to open up pipes a little on the floor before assembling underneath with limited room.

2. Chase the bolt holes in the floor pan so its easier to install the hangers.

3. If you are using exhaust tips , test fit them at the ends of the tailpipes before final install.

As A-56 said, make sure someone knows where you are. Work safe bud!!

Good luck with the install!!
 
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Steve,

Everytime you position a joint mark it with an X, save youself from having to do it all over again.
Art
IMG_20190403_142613.jpg
 
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Good tips guys, thanks!
Thanks Troy, appreciate the offer, yes the 340 is in. Starter too...doh and bellhousing to block brackets...doh and RA oil filter adapter...triple doh lol.
Good safety point with letting someone know where I am.
I know when I removed the 273 exhaust the rear pipes were a ***** with everything at ride height so to speak, so I'll see how the Summit pipe squeezes in there.
I read somewhere to mark the middle of the curve of over axle pipe to give it the most room. Make sense?
I have some axle stands and a couple small square dollies to be able to shuffle/slide them around.
CFD244 said:
.........My offer still stands :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Good tips guys, thanks!
Thanks Troy, appreciate the offer, yes the 340 is in. Starter too...doh and bellhousing to block brackets...doh and RA oil filter adapter...triple doh lol.
Good safety point with letting someone know where I am.
I know when I removed the 273 exhaust the rear pipes were a ***** with everything at ride height so to speak, so I'll see how the Summit pipe squeezes in there.
I read somewhere to mark the middle of the curve of over axle pipe to give it the most room. Make sense?
I have some axle stands and a couple small square dollies to be able to shuffle/slide them around.
Click to expand...
Man, that didn't take you long. That is a beautiful car that you have there.
 
Thanks Troy, Im just trying to be a good caretaker for it. Gentleman we bought it from(a member on here and his brother) and the original owner deserve most of the credit.
The 340 took longer than it should've mating up to 904 lol and there were a few tense moments with 273 coming out.
Now to do the jenga shop shuffle so I can roll around on floor with exhaust lol.
CFD244 said:
Man, that didn't take you long. That is a beautiful car that you have there.
Click to expand...
 
OK, so some progress today, thanks to @MidnightSwinger for the help with pass manifold.
Got the car up on some cribbing, not a lot(4.5") and I may raise it some more.
Over axle pipe(s) is 2 pieces. They're half *** mounted using the old/existing hangers. The 2 pipes join above the axle, so there is a "twist" to it. Trying to keep the tail pipe part of it parallel with the frame rail. But it seems really close to the bump stop? Like less than an inch. Ideas?
First four pics are axle/tail pipe and you can see how close it is to rubber bumper on frame.
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Next pic is of the pipe that is sposed to go to the header, but I'm using the tti head pipe. Look how far off into left field it goes lol, what's with that? It's on other side of driveshaft lol I guess that Hooker headers are that much different?
20240626_205239.jpg

Next set of pics are of the 2 pipes that lead from the tti head pipe to the muffler. I measured what I "needed", and it's approx 43". These 2 pipes together are approx 59", so gotta slice n dice 15" or so somewhere.
Pic where I'm pointing is a slight bend, so can't cut there. Where I'm grabbing pipe is a decent straight stretch where I'm thinking to cut.
Open to suggestions of all sorts lol.

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So the car is not up on jackstands, and I can’t really get to the passenger side. Hopefully some of these pics will help you. I paid a shop to make the summit kit mate up to the TTI head pipes.

IMG_7683.jpeg


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Thanks, so did you install everything except the 2 pipes between muffler and head pipe? Looks good! :thumbsup:
Cheers
Steve
MidnightSwinger said:
So the car is not up on jackstands, and I can’t really get to the passenger side. Hopefully some of these pics will help you. I paid a shop to make the summit kit mate up to the TTI head pipes.

View attachment 1716268223

View attachment 1716268224

View attachment 1716268225

View attachment 1716268226

View attachment 1716268227

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View attachment 1716268229
Click to expand...
 
I know this is late, but i did mine a few weeks ago and it wasn't too bad.. used a 3" kit of bends and Gibson MWA mufflers (way too loud though but sounds good) I am happy with it and one thing i did that made me soo happy was using slip on clamps and not normal ubolt type clamps.. they make adjusting/taking it apart (over the axle mainly) soo much easier and work great..
P.S. finally got the car outside after 2 years and was able to clean and mop the floor! :)
2024-05-26 17.00.03.jpg

BTW.. this is incase anyone ever searchs for MWA mufflers.. (and this is just a weak little 318)

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I'm starting to wonder if it's worth me wrestling and cursing at.
I had a close shop about 20 min from me quote $90/hr, which is VERY reasonable.
That being said what would that equate to total tab?? $400? It would be fully welded.

OR I invest in a few lapjoint band clamps, Amazon $60. I have a mig welder.(didn't say I can weld lol :rolleyes: )
The biggest concern I have(so far) is the pass side pipe that connects immediately after the tti head pipe. It goes way off and over onto drivers side. I haven't messed with it a lot but will before I decide whatnot do.
See pics below of pass side pipe in question.
1st pic, then the following pics show how it connects to next pipe and everything looks "straight/correct" with those 2 pipes?
Thanks
Steve

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You'll most likely also need to install a mini-starter. Install the TTI headers 1st. I think TTI instructs to work from back to front. p.s. The stock Mopar chrome tail pipes won't work. You have to use the TTI versions. You'll also have to cut to X-pipe [or H-pipe] a little to fit to the header.
 
Thanks, not tti headers, they're oem style tti headpipes. I have mini starter. No X or H pipe, this is a Summit kit. Not using chrome tips, never were factory on 67 cudas. I plan on using turn downs.
rebelcaptain said:
You'll most likely also need to install a mini-starter. Install the TTI headers 1st. I think TTI instructs to work from back to front. p.s. The stock Mopar chrome tail pipes won't work. You have to use the TTI versions. You'll also have to cut to X-pipe [or H-pipe] a little to fit to the header.
Click to expand...
 
Something is super screwy with that one head pipe.
Did you order it using the part number off the manifold?

100_1467.JPG
 
Dana, no running each side straight back as "normal". Pipes on each side of driveshaft. Prev dual exhaust from 273 was run same way.
Dana67Dart said:
Steve,

Is this how you are running your exhaust?View attachment 1716269292
Click to expand...
I dunno but I think head pipe is fine. It comes out right at crossmember and parallel to driveshaft. Here's a shitty pic, I'll get a better one after work tonight. The pipe that is sposed to connect to headpipe has 3 bends in it, so I'll see about twisting it and see if that helps?
Thanks guys
sireland67 said:
Something is super screwy with that one head pipe.
Did you order it using the part number off the manifold?

View attachment 1716269295
Click to expand...

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