tips on asphalt driveaway replacement?

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abdywgn

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Adding a driveway replacement to the list of things to have done in the near future...i.e. next year or two. Snow blower is throwing more rocks in some areas than snow. I'm not sure what's underneath the current driveway, but if I had to guess, it had minimal amount of prep and foundation. So, after it's removed, what is the proper way to have a solid foundation put in and topped with the correct asphalt? Is there such a thing as "highway grade"? One friend had his done and he said to make sure they use a 20-ton vibratory compactor. Well, that's all I know. Thanks for any and all advice and guidance!
 
Adding a driveway replacement to the list of things to have done in the near future...i.e. next year or two. Snow blower is throwing more rocks in some areas than snow. I'm not sure what's underneath the current driveway, but if I had to guess, it had minimal amount of prep and foundation. So, after it's removed, what is the proper way to have a solid foundation put in and topped with the correct asphalt? Is there such a thing as "highway grade"? One friend had his done and he said to make sure they use a 20-ton vibratory compactor. Well, that's all I know. Thanks for any and all advice and guidance!
If you're looking for a one time deal, concrete is the way to go. Asphalt has to be resealed every couple of years, added expense.
 
Compaction is one of the keys. A lot depends on the composition of the original material. A good 4" of Class II Base material on top of the original grade is always helpful. "Fine" mixtures from the asphalt plant have a shorter lifespan than than "Medium" mixes.
 
Unless your cars are leak free concrete will not dissolve. If your driveway is long just do the parking pad In concrete to save$
 
If you're looking for a one time deal, concrete is the way to go. Asphalt has to be resealed every couple of years, added expense.
Resealed? We moved in 26+ years ago and not one inch has been resealed...I did it every other year at the other house and decided since this one was already past "sealing will help", I would wait it out and see how long this would last.
Concrete is a good idea, but taxes are more. Maybe as mbaird said, we'll just have the parking pads done. Yes, his n her garages and a long driveway to the back.
 
Resealed? We moved in 26+ years ago and not one inch has been resealed...I did it every other year at the other house and decided since this one was already past "sealing will help", I would wait it out and see how long this would last.
Concrete is a good idea, but taxes are more. Maybe as mbaird said, we'll just have the parking pads done. Yes, his n her garages and a long driveway to the back.
My driveway is 84' long and 24' wide and 4" thick it's 17 years old and still looks great.
 
With both prep is key, but I would think more skill is required for concrete translating to higher cost. Good idea with doing parking pads.
 
With both prep is key, but I would think more skill is required for concrete translating to higher cost. Good idea with doing parking pads.
Yes, used to have breakfast once a month with a retired union concrete worker. Lot of advice and I hope to find where I wrote it down cause you know how the memory is.
 
Sealing asphalt is a regional thing .
Idaho chip seals rods due to frost heaves and cracking . ******* waste of money ! Someone has a brother with a gravel pit !
 
If you're looking for a one time deal, concrete is the way to go. Asphalt has to be resealed every couple of years, added expense.
This. I've left cars on jack stands for several days only to find that the stands are now in divots.
 
There is a reason why "Interstate" highways were all specced in concrete to begin with.
Interstates, California State Highways, County, City roads are built to some of the best standards in the Nation here in California.

Yes we have high gas taxes but . . . The roads don't beat the tar out of cars in most places.

Most of the State is not subjected to the rigors of harsh winters as most and limited budgets.

Long live the Operating Engineers that keep the ball rolling efficiently.
 
It depends on a few things.
Asphalt done properly to "highway grade" is very very hard wearing, but domestic asphalt is often thin rubbish.
In the UK the asphalt is in many layers - 3 layers of asphalt alone, building up the wearing or surface course.
mac_build-up_layers.jpg


For your house you will probably get just the top 2 courses, in thinner layers too.

Concrete is way more hard wearing than typical domestic asphalt but will stain with leaves and can get slippery if on a slope.

You'd want at least 4" concrete with decent mesh reinforcement.
 
Compaction is one of the keys. A lot depends on the composition of the original material. A good 4" of Class II Base material on top of the original grade is always helpful. "Fine" mixtures from the asphalt plant have a shorter lifespan than than "Medium" mixes.
no one around here puts 4'' down , always 2''...had mine done twice , but they couldn't use a big heavy roller to compact it with , due to running under a carport/portico .
reseal time coming up...
 
Just make sure if you pay for first run asphalt, that you get it. There was an incident where someone paid for first run and received recycled material.
 
A good base is key!! We just had ours redone... they removed the old asphalt including 8" of old base. they laid down a mix of process and ground up old asphalt... one rainfall and this layer hardened up pretty good... even the guys who came and laid down the new asphalt commented on this. I never sealed the old driveway (250' long) it lasted 23 years with a shitty base. Do your research with the company you want to do the job
 
This. I've left cars on jack stands for several days only to find that the stands are now in divots.
I leave cars parked for...years and end up with divots. Friends dad always told him to put plywood under the jackstand no matter how long it's going to be there.
 
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