Tire wear, what's causing this! ? ?

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i am stuck at the UPPER BALL JOINT! whats the damn socket size? any one know? cant seem to find any one that carries sockets this big.... some one said 1 7/8 is this correct?
 
this is very useful thank you. but i just broke the bank with all the parts previously ordered and wasnt really trying to brake the bank on a 40 dollar socket. that i will be using 2 times.

a socket size would be much appreciated - i found a few for a few dollars but i am not certain of the size. some one mentio0ned 1 7/8 but ive herd a tad bit largers sizes as well
 
not sure a regular socket will fit it.. you may be able to rent the proper socket at a local place.... a friend used a pipe wrench years ago..
 
Special socket. Period.
-They are usually very tight. Almost extremely tight. I have had to use 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 4 FOOT pipe to get the leverage that is often required. I leave the arm on the car, and the car on the ground with only the one wheel off. I break it loose and perhaps several turns before diss-assembling anything. That way the spindle and lower arm stabilize the upper for the procedure.If the arm is flopping around, you may have major difficulties.Forget about impact tools, if on the car. The rubber bushings absorb and negate the impact hammering.If the car is on jackstands, you will need to figure out a way to transfer the screwing torque back into the chassis so that it doesnt fall off the stands and possibly injure you.If the car is on the alignment rack it is usually stable enough to really muscle it.
-When reassembling, be extremely careful in screwing that BJ back in absolutely straight. They can be ornery. And they have fooled me. If going only by feel,they may screw in maybe a turn or two then get tighter and tighter until impossible to continue even with the big bar.You have to keep eyeballing them to prove them straight.I use a bit of anti-seize.If you damage the threads or strip them, you will be shopping for a replacement arm.Or welding the new BJ in;not for the feint of heart.The BJs have proprietary materials inside them that are heat sensitive, and can easily be destroyed during the welding procedure. And then youre back shopping. So, be very, very,careful with the install.
-If your arm accepts the BJ with no fuss at all(This happened to me on one occasion) your arm may have been damaged on a previous install. You may have to loctite it in
-And in the event that your BJ goes in without drama,hallelujah.
-Get the right socket.Period.
-There are three sizes in the Mopar line-up;one for the early As, one for the full-size cars, and one for the pick-ups. Small, medium, large.
May the force be with you,Cheers
 
OKAY WELL I GOT MY ARMS BACK today a friend from work pressed in the new bushings and even did the ball joints for me. and wen tthe extra mile and took all the greases GUNK off of them. going to install today. i will update with photos. i will get home and remove the idler arem and pitman arm..

anything i should be aware of? i dont wan tto learn from my mistake.. !
 
Normally, (and as posted in #91)you need a tool to remove the P-arm. Do not wail on it with the mechanics favorite tool; the bfg. Do not heat it,unless you know exactly how and where to.
 
Don't just put the puller on the pitman arm and tighten down on it. Remove the nut, install the tool. Tighten down on it. I use an impact. Tighten it down good. Then remove the impact and socket and take a hammer and smack the SIDE of the pitman arm where it slides onto the sector shaft splined shaft. Tighten some more and repeat until the arm pops off the sector shaft. If you simply tighten the tool without smacking on the pitman arm, you will probably break the tool.
 
Damn i"!

New issue ....
I purchased the idler arm and pitman arm for my 1968 barracuda. From a 1973 a body but it's not the same the new ones are more thick with a smaller bend...

Do I have stock 1968 a body idler arm and pitman arm? I hope I have warranty for return!
 
You bought parts for a 73 car for a 68? Why the hell would you do that? Yeah, they are different.
 
Because I have front end from a 73 a body . Front discs , A Arms ... etc...

i guess my question was - has any one ever done the front disc conversion from a 1973 A body to a 68... and if the idler arm and pitman arm are usually changed with this process or stocks are kept in with ... and one have any photos of 1968 A body pitman arm and idler arm so i can use for reference that . that is indeed what i have on mine... thanks!

damn it ... rock auto - return policy is only 50 days or 30.... im at 61 days.. oh well

any one need a 1973 A body pitman arm and idler arm?
 
I have a 68 S-clone. It has a 70 Duster KH set-up on it and 73 steering parts. It all fits.
The 68 parts are OEM; control arms and balljoints. These interchange up to and including 72.The Duster parts are;Knuckles,discs,and calipers, and 340K-frame. The 73 Dart parts are steering only parts; Centerlink,and all tierod parts, and the arms. The centerlink and arms must be treated as a set; they are different between groups of years. The later style(73 up) drops the centerlink for extra oilpan clearance.
As long as your new pitman arm physically fits on the sector shaft (there are 2 sizes), and has the pin oriented up/down (there are 2 styles) the same as what you are replacing,and the overall length between the pin and the splined hole are the same, other manufacturing differences shouldnt matter. The only important stuff is that it fits,and the length is about the same, and that the working angles are similar.
Hope this helps.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I have a 68 S-clone. It has a 70 Duster KH set-up on it and 73 steering parts. It all fits.
The 68 parts are OEM; control arms and balljoints. These interchange up to and including 72.The Duster parts are;Knuckles,discs,and calipers. The 73 Dart parts are steering only parts; Centerlink,and all tierod parts, and the arms. The centerlink and arms must be treated as a set; they are different between groups of years. The later style(73 up) drops the centerlink for extra oilpan clearance.
As long as your new pitman arm physically fits on the sector shaft (there are 2 sizes), and has the pin oriented up/down (there are 2 styles) the same as what you are replacing,and the overall length between the pin and the splined hole are the same, other manufacturing differences shouldnt matter. The only important stuff is that it fits,and the length is about the same, and that the working angles are similar.
Hope this helps.
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well i think that right there is my issue.. because these (1973 abody idler and pitman arms) are thinker and smaller bend giving my less clearance on the center link to the oilpan//// i have no space there so i have to use whats on the car currently///... i was wondering what was on my car if not 1973 A body idler and pitman arms... my guess is stock 1968 A body/...

again i have a 1973 440 magnum off of a charger. barely any clearance on the oilpan and steering link.
 
I would sanity check all the clearences at full lock either side, make sure your not rubbin. All your tires the same? my girlfriends elcamino did this when i got a flat and swapped on the fullsize spare just beacause the treads/psi rateing where different. Front right on the outside, driverside on the inside. Felt straight too untill you get over 25 or 30, let go and not touch it it would pull ever so slightly to the right. Most likely something misalighed (hopefully not bent).
 
InItSwingIt said:
I would sanity check all the clearences at full lock either side, make sure your not rubbin. All your tires the same? my girlfriends elcamino did this when i got a flat and swapped on the fullsize spare just beacause the treads/psi rateing where different. Front right on the outside, driverside on the inside. Felt straight too untill you get over 25 or 30, let go and not touch it it would pull ever so slightly to the right. Most likely something misalighed (hopefully not bent).
Click to expand...

well from what ive seen so far the 1968 A body pitman arm and idler arm are thinner and have more of a bend giving more room for the link bar giving more room for oil pan.

this is a separate:D issue. what was causing my tire wear was worn bushings and misalignment.
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
Because I have front end from a 73 a body . Front discs , A Arms ... etc...

i guess my question was - has any one ever done the front disc conversion from a 1973 A body to a 68... and if the idler arm and pitman arm are usually changed with this process or stocks are kept in with ... and one have any photos of 1968 A body pitman arm and idler arm so i can use for reference that . that is indeed what i have on mine... thanks!

damn it ... rock auto - return policy is only 50 days or 30.... im at 61 days.. oh well

any one need a 1973 A body pitman arm and idler arm?
Click to expand...

I think it depends on which K frame you have. Do you have a 73 K frame?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think it depends on which K frame you have. Do you have a 73 K frame?
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good question.... so should i check out 1973 charger.. idler arm and pitman arm?

what is this a B body? (1973 dodge charger) :blob:

how about i get the part number off of the ones i currently have on the car.. would someone be able to tell me what they come off of? that would solve my problem haha...

Great thinking ! i would of not thought of that till much later.
this is originally a v8 318 barracuda would a 440 from a 1973 dodge charger fit with a 1968 Plymouth barracuda V8 318 K frame?
 
Almost the only way to fit a 440 into that 68 on a 318 K is with the Schumacher mounts.
There are AFAIK, only 2 OEM bigblock A-body Ks; The early biscuit mount (67 to 72), and the later spool mount (73 to 75). Other A-body Ks can be used, either with the Schumacher brackets or home-builts. The early Ks in 340 cars were also offered with reinforced LCA pin mounts. These had a large thick washer welded on for ID just under where the crank pulley resides.The 67 K is not usually considered because of the way the idler arm mounts with a single-shear mounting tab. 68 up are double-shear.
-I suppose its possible to attempt to install a B-body centerlink into an A-body. That would definitely mess things up.The correct C-link will put your arms pointing straight back,parallel to the vehicle centerline.
-The Charger K was designed for the wider B engine bay. Ive never tried to swap it into an A. I imagine its a couple of inches too wide.
 
:coffee2::coffee2:
AJ/FormS said:
Almost the only way to fit a 440 into that 68 on a 318 K is with the Schumacher mounts.
There are AFAIK, only 2 OEM bigblock A-body Ks; The early biscuit mount (67 to 72), and the later spool mount (73 to 75). Other A-body Ks can be used, either with the Schumacher brackets or home-builts. The early Ks in 340 cars were also offered with reinforced LCA pin mounts. These had a large thick washer welded on for ID just under where the crank pulley resides.The 67 K is not usually considered because of the way the idler arm mounts with a single-shear mounting tab. 68 up are double-shear.
-I suppose its possible to attempt to install a B-body centerlink into an A-body. That would definitely mess things up.The correct C-link will put your arms pointing straight back,parallel to the vehicle centerline.
-The Charger K was designed for the wider B engine bay. Ive never tried to swap it into an A. I imagine its a couple of inches too wide.
Click to expand...

:coffee2: So your sayin I most likely do not have a 73 k frame and most likely stock? I'll check for numbers
 
In response to post 115; The early arms have the pins pointing up to the hood. The later arms (73up) have the pins pointing down.As mentioned earlier; the arms and centerlink are treated as a set between year groups. ie, the early arms go with the early C-link; the late with late.
I think it was post25 that showed the LATE (73up)pin orientation..
Post 60 shows the early pin orientation.
 
I think the first thing you should do is get your automotive ADD under control. When you do, let us know. Pick a subject. Stick with it until it's fixed, then move on.

That's it for me. As Gregory LeNoir Allman sings....

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vE3zhu9ROjo"]The Allman Brothers Band-Ain't Wastin' Time No More - YouTube[/ame]
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
Damn i"!

New issue ....
I purchased the idler arm and pitman arm for my 1968 barracuda. From a 1973 a body but it's not the same the new ones are more thick with a smaller bend...

Do I have stock 1968 a body idler arm and pitman arm? I hope I have warranty for return!
Click to expand...

you can have 73 brakes and 72-down steering linkage...

like i stated before you bought anything the 73-up idler arm and pitman arm are different then the 72-down. all the part numbers i gave you were for a 68-72 abody. i also gave you a link to all the moog. what exactly do you have and what exactly did you order?????



abodyjoe said:
what did the car originally have in it motor wise? was it a slant six or a 318? either way you should probably go with a larger torsion bar.


you have a 73-up style disc brake system on the car.

what numbers are different for a 73 that you are talking about??

what year car are you working on? the pitman arm and idler arms i posted were for a 70. 73-up will be a different number...

refer to this list for the part numbers.. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/moognumbers.shtml


73-up pitman arm is powersteering K7076.... manual steering K7075

73-up idler arm is K7086
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