TKX bellhousing offset dowel confusion

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ESP47

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Installing a set of .007" offset dowels to get the run out alignment in spec and it seems to me like the dowels that shift sst sent me are too long.

The side with the cut outs should go into the block right? I installed them that way but there is a good 1/4" gap when I tried putting the bellhousing on. I knocked them back out and stuck them in the bellhousing and it looks to me like they're too long.

Just want to make sure I'm not over looking something stupid here because it sure did put a halt to my weekend plans.

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The straight part goes into the block and the offset end engages the bell. The slot end engages the bell.
 
Measure them carefully. Most of the mopar dowels are sold as .500" (ford) when they are actually need to be .496ish. This is why most people end up with RobMc dowels.

RobbMcPerformance Bellhousing Alignment Dowels

www.robbmcperformance.com

For fine tuning I make my own but anything that needs more than a five thou gets the RobMC dowels. If you want to make a set to verify how much offset is needed (or not), the process is relatively easy. If you have a drill press and a long 1/2" bolt you can use a section of the shank to make a set of dowels by chucking up the bolt and removing marerial with emery cloth and measure with a dial caliper to get .497ish. Extra points for drilling and tapping them 1/4-20 for easy removal.

A down and dirty way to find center is using a section of 1/2" shrink tubing to align a chucked up center punch and the dowel which is locked down in the vice. Index everything, lock the table down and swap over to the 13/64 (or #7) drill bit. Once the hole is drilled you can carefully use the chuck to start the tap. Once the tap is eating you can release the chuck and finish with a tap wrench etc.
 
It is okay that the dowels are long. The holes in the bell are open and the dowels will stick out about 3/8".

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Thanks for the replies. I'll check it out again when I get a chance later today but I'm pretty sure the dowel holes in the bellhousing that I have aren't open unless I'm making a mistake and using the wrong holes.

@66Valiant528 you're saying the slotted end goes into the bellhousing? I thought the point of the slotted end was to be able to expand to keep the dowel held in place in the block when you drive the hex head screw in? Seems as if every video I've seen shows the slotted end going into the block with the other end being stamped on the end to show you which way to turn them.

 
If you have the Robb style yes the split end goes into the block and you tighten the Allen screw like in my picture. If you just have a slot to turn the dowel in the block to where it's dialed in, there may be no lock. Dial it in and tighten it down.
 
66Valiant528 said:
If you have the Robb style yes the split end goes into the block and you tighten the Allen screw like in my picture. If you just have a slot to turn the dowel in the block to where it's dialed in, there may be no lock. Dial it in and tighten it down.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have the Robb style. I just went and checked and the bell housing doesn't have through holes so this style isn't going to work for me. Too long to be able to make the bell to the engine. I'll call shift sst and see what they say tomorrow. Thanks.
 
If you have the Robb dowels, his instructions say to cut down if needed. I did on my 4spd install and my holes weren't open either..
 
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