j par
Well-hung Member
my mostly race car heater delete of course. I'm thinking just leaving the thermostat out less restriction more water flow? oh I'll get it warmed up I'm sure! Lol
to be or not to be? a thermostat question
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OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
You may be fine in the winter, but you really need "some" restriction of flow in the warm weather.....Meaning the water has to stay in the radiator long enough to cool down some, especially at high rpm's.
Without some sort of restriction in there, you sure will.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
I used this type on a BB Chevy before. Most are listed for Chevy/Ford applications, but it's possible something like these will work with a little experimentation.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Be-Cool-Wat...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58bb303d8d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Be-Cool-Wat...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58bb303d8d
Why not just gut the T stat that's there already. Then I guess you wouldn't have the ability to adjust flow.
tubtar
Well-Known Member
The coolant can go too fast.
It isn't in the engine long enough to pick up much heat from the block and heads.
If you run without a stat , a restrictor is pretty much a must have.
I went with a stat still restricted the flow to try and focus the cooling around the center cylinders.
Plugs in the passages in the deck drilled down to 3/16ths " and used smaller lines from the ends of the head vs. the center. ( W-9's )
I use a remote electric pump and coolant enters the block through the center core plugs via -12 line , exits through the heads , aluminum radiator and HHR fan and shroud.
It stays cool on the street and I will probably have to work to get it to temp on the track.
It isn't in the engine long enough to pick up much heat from the block and heads.
If you run without a stat , a restrictor is pretty much a must have.
I went with a stat still restricted the flow to try and focus the cooling around the center cylinders.
Plugs in the passages in the deck drilled down to 3/16ths " and used smaller lines from the ends of the head vs. the center. ( W-9's )
I use a remote electric pump and coolant enters the block through the center core plugs via -12 line , exits through the heads , aluminum radiator and HHR fan and shroud.
It stays cool on the street and I will probably have to work to get it to temp on the track.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Knowing you are going to run some street, I've run "hi-flow" 160* stats on several 12sec. cars, and with a appropriate radiator, they all ran between 175*/195* on the street or under race conditions. Just make sure you have adequate shrouding and you'll be fine with a conventional setup.
j par
Well-hung Member
I have one of those little electric Moroso motors that runs the stock water pump.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I didn't know you had a electric pump drive. I'm not a big fan of those for much street driving, so I'm out on this one. 
j par
Well-hung Member
"just when I thought I was out, they dragged me back in" LOL (godfather 3) op- mostly drag use.Sorry, I didn't know you had a electric pump drive. I'm not a big fan of those for much street driving, so I'm out on this one.
tubtar
Well-Known Member
The Moroso water pump drive isn't up to the task for most street use.......even with the overdrive pulleys.
The belt drive only turn the water pump at about a 1000 rpm so they don't flow a lot of water.
The advantage is that they can flow water with out the eng running.
With that said, i put the fastest spinning pulley on it and couldn't keep it keep cool, with my 340 9.5 compression.
My 408 how, never has a problem with heat, and it a 12.75 compression eng. Complete seal of electric fans to radiator. No t- stat and a alum plate welded into the timing chain cover to bring the water pump impeller to with in .040" of the cover.
IF this hadn't of worked, i would have went back to the factory clutch fan set up.
I ended up putting a "thermostat control" on the water pump so that it didn't get to cold on the street on cool days. And so i would quit running the battery dead, at the track because i forgot to turn it off:violent1:
The advantage is that they can flow water with out the eng running.
With that said, i put the fastest spinning pulley on it and couldn't keep it keep cool, with my 340 9.5 compression.
My 408 how, never has a problem with heat, and it a 12.75 compression eng. Complete seal of electric fans to radiator. No t- stat and a alum plate welded into the timing chain cover to bring the water pump impeller to with in .040" of the cover.
IF this hadn't of worked, i would have went back to the factory clutch fan set up.
I ended up putting a "thermostat control" on the water pump so that it didn't get to cold on the street on cool days. And so i would quit running the battery dead, at the track because i forgot to turn it off:violent1:
j par
Well-hung Member
I actually ran the water pump and the plastic fan with that little motor and had no problems in the middle of the summer on 90 degree days but with that said it was a low compression 318. My plan is to now just run the water pump with it and I have two electric fans for the radiator with the new stroker motor. I thought when I read about it the stock gearing was for the Moroso setup was 2600 rpms? I got the dual fan set up from a member that said it came from a 440 Motorhome he was a nice guy and did a great job getting them to me at a very reasonable price.
I ran one of those Moroso electric water pump drives on my Demon on the streets for 1000's of miles with no problem. I had a aluminum radiator with a electric fan. I only turned the fan on in stop and go traffic. My Demon ran 6.90's to 7.0' on motor in the 1/8.
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