To retorque or not to retorque? That is the question.

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dusty1

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Just put my first set of aluminum heads on. Built several motors and have never re torqued. Are aluminum that much diff as far as actually needing re torqued? Just getting a survey of opinions. If you vote to re torque, then do it cold or warm?
 
got 4 motors using aluminium heads...never have re-torqued them...
 
I have worked as an ASE certified dealership mechanic since the 1970's. At that time the "factory" required a cylinder head retorque at 1000 miles. Since then I have noticed ALL cylinder heads can benefit from a retorque; regardless aluminum or cast iron, and regardless of "permatorque" gaskets or not.
During the initial engine build, I tighten the head bolts down in 10-15 ft lb increments, then after reaching full torque go back thru them one by one...loosen and retighten to full torque...the point is the bolts are tightened evenly.
And even then during a retorque check some bolts, typically the short ones, will be "loose" as the shortness seems to not give the bolt as much "stretch" as the long bolts.
I don't wait for 1000 miles any more. The "day after" the engine is first run to break in the cam etc, then either the next day or whenever convenient I retorque the bolts on a COLD engine. Remember the engine was initially torqued and assembled "cold" and therefore the retorque is "cold" also.
 
Never used aluminum heads on my builds. On the iron heads, the few i did with a steel shim thin gasket i did check, but were fine. All the others were Felpro's with no retorque and never had a issue.
 
i just finished changing a cyl head on a ford escort ,and ford said torque to 44 foot pounds, loosen 2 turns tighten them to 44 pounds again and then 1/4 turn,and another 1/4 turn. now i did it like that but i reallythought once you crush the gasket you didnt want to loosen or you would need a new gasket.sorry bout the ford thing justthought it kinda applied here. never have i retorqued any v-8 heads aluminum orcast iron
 
On factory type work, I follow the factory instructions (also previous ASE Master here). On all engines using aftermarket aluminum heads I run the engine a couple heat cycles, then retorque them. IMO - you always have to retorque when using aluminum heads on a non-factory appplication.
 
thats right the gasket set came with headbolts on that little ferd smallest i ever saw...
 
I have never bothered to retorque after the motor has fired. But I do normally torque 90/100ft in 3 steps, then allow it to sit over night to give the gasket time to compress and seat. Then the next day I will go back through the sequence and loosen and retorque one at a time. I always torque the upper bolts 10lbs more to counter the intake wedging and pulling up. Never had a problem, and I run 10lbs of boost on one of my cars.
 
Composition head gaskets compress over time,even without heat cycles. That means a retorque is needed. To prove it to yourself just torque a head or 2 and come back a few days later.. Shim or steel type gaskets don't have the same issue.
 
If you follow the manufacturer's directions, you shouldn't go wrong.
There's no harm in retorqueing them after they are heat cycled and cold again. It's good peace of mind.
The factory didn't retorque them, that's food for thought.
 
Just run um down with an impact wrench.
 
I wanted to retorque them but the left head with PS and TTI W2 headers make it a days work. Too much for this old fart.
 
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