Toe-in changes when front end lifts at track

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Demonx2

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I've had an issue sometimes where my avatar car (72 Demon) pulls to the left at the dragstrip when I launch it or when going down the track. After reviewing several videos of the car, you can clearly see the car leaving straight then veering left shortly after. You can also see the tire tracks when it does this. It's a manual steering car and when I instinctively correct it, the car can go into an over-gained condition where the back-end and front end start "porpoising" horizontally and you feel like the back end wants to swap places with the front! I'm no hero so I immediately abort the run and the car settles down just fine. Here's an example where you can see the tire tracks after it left the line and went left. The camera was not perfectly behind the car but you can see what I'm describing idea pretty well:

1665981750438.png


The car's best 60' is a 1.496 and 1/8 mile is a 7.01 (1/4 mile 11.19) The videos showed me something quite interesting. This car has considerable body separation on the launch (car has a CalTrac split mono rear and 73 disc brake setup up front). It pulls the LF tire up to maybe an inch or so and the RF will sometimes see daylight and sometimes not. But the video shows that, on the launch, when the front end lifts and the RF tire swings down from the body, the act of it dropping down makes the tie rod end "act" too long which causes the tire to toe in (since the tie rod is on the rear side of the wheel) and essentially drives the car to the left. The suspension pieces (bushings, ball joints, etc) are essentially all new and there is no looseness to the wheel when I have it in the air on a jack and try to jostle it. It seems like simple geometry that when the tire swings down, the tie rod end would be too long and cause this toe-in affect. FWIW, the LF tire does not seem to do this similar thing in reverse as much hence why the car drives left. I haven't determine why sometimes it drives harder left than others but suspect it may be dependent on how high it pulls the front end and whether the RF tire is down more compared to the LF one. Note that this tendency to drive left can also occur a bit down the track (say 100' out) as the front end is still lifted/body separation is still quite a bit at that point.

So given this, I'm sure someone has already overcome this or uses some front end alignment trick. When I set the car up, I used the Skosh chart for alignment specs for "Max performance street" as I use the car on the street some too. Today I worked on it in the driveway trying different toe settings and camber settings. But if I make the RF wheel point straight ahead with them just touching the ground (like just after it leaves and settles back down), it is toed out when sitting at rest or idling around in the driveway/normal driving.

Is this just a limitation that you live with and set the tie rod for the track with the wheels up (shorten it several turns) and then lengthen it for normal street driving or ??? Looking to the braintrust for some experience and schooling for me. Thx!!
 
ALL of this is covered in the Mopar Performance Suspension Book in depth, IF you can find a copy. It shows step by step how to STOP camber change through the front suspension travel. It's a wealth of information. Mancini used to run them for 10 bucks each plus shipping when they had them.
 
Known as bump steer. Do your tie rods have the same number of threads showing between the spindle and the tie rod sleeve ?
In the drive way jack up the front end from the center of the K frame and measure the toe change on each side every time you pump
 
I think it was called the "chassis" manual. I have a copy here somewhere as well as the engine book.

P5007160​

 
I've had an issue sometimes where my avatar car (72 Demon) pulls to the left at the dragstrip when I launch it or when going down the track. After reviewing several videos of the car, you can clearly see the car leaving straight then veering left shortly after. You can also see the tire tracks when it does this. It's a manual steering car and when I instinctively correct it, the car can go into an over-gained condition where the back-end and front end start "porpoising" horizontally and you feel like the back end wants to swap places with the front! I'm no hero so I immediately abort the run and the car settles down just fine. Here's an example where you can see the tire tracks after it left the line and went left. The camera was not perfectly behind the car but you can see what I'm describing idea pretty well:

View attachment 1715999236

The car's best 60' is a 1.496 and 1/8 mile is a 7.01 (1/4 mile 11.19) The videos showed me something quite interesting. This car has considerable body separation on the launch (car has a CalTrac split mono rear and 73 disc brake setup up front). It pulls the LF tire up to maybe an inch or so and the RF will sometimes see daylight and sometimes not. But the video shows that, on the launch, when the front end lifts and the RF tire swings down from the body, the act of it dropping down makes the tie rod end "act" too long which causes the tire to toe in (since the tie rod is on the rear side of the wheel) and essentially drives the car to the left. The suspension pieces (bushings, ball joints, etc) are essentially all new and there is no looseness to the wheel when I have it in the air on a jack and try to jostle it. It seems like simple geometry that when the tire swings down, the tie rod end would be too long and cause this toe-in affect. FWIW, the LF tire does not seem to do this similar thing in reverse as much hence why the car drives left. I haven't determine why sometimes it drives harder left than others but suspect it may be dependent on how high it pulls the front end and whether the RF tire is down more compared to the LF one. Note that this tendency to drive left can also occur a bit down the track (say 100' out) as the front end is still lifted/body separation is still quite a bit at that point.

So given this, I'm sure someone has already overcome this or uses some front end alignment trick. When I set the car up, I used the Skosh chart for alignment specs for "Max performance street" as I use the car on the street some too. Today I worked on it in the driveway trying different toe settings and camber settings. But if I make the RF wheel point straight ahead with them just touching the ground (like just after it leaves and settles back down), it is toed out when sitting at rest or idling around in the driveway/normal driving.

Is this just a limitation that you live with and set the tie rod for the track with the wheels up (shorten it several turns) and then lengthen it for normal street driving or ??? Looking to the braintrust for some experience and schooling for me. Thx!!
Are you running some type of limited slip or a spool? When I used to drag race my car would pull to the left like that with the sure grip. Once I put a spool in it, it went straight.
 
Known as bump steer. Do your tie rods have the same number of threads showing between the spindle and the tie rod sleeve ?
In the drive way jack up the front end from the center of the K frame and measure the toe change on each side every time you pump
Good question! On the RH side, the amount of threads showing on each end of the tie rod sleeve is roughly the same. As for whether it is similar to the LH side, I will have to look.

One thing I did notice when I jacked the car up under the k-member is that the RH tire definitely turns in quite a bit more than the LH tire. I lifted the car until the tires are just barely and lightly touching the ground and you can watch the RH tire turning inward. So I definitely measure a toe-in change. I don't recall seeing much (certainly not nearly as much) toe change on the LH side so I'll have to go look at that again this evening.

I took measurements when I started and here is what I found (using a tape measure and recording to within 1/16"):
1. Car sitting on ground...toe-in essentially 0"
2. Jack car up under center of k-member until both front wheels are in the air then set it back down until both tires are slightly loaded touching the ground: toe-in measures a hefty 1.75"! I believe most of that is coming from the RH side.

I'll have a look at the tie-rod threads side to side tonight and report back. Thx!
 
Are you running some type of limited slip or a spool? When I used to drag race my car would pull to the left like that with the sure grip. Once I put a spool in it, it went straight.
489 case 8-3/4 with a spool. 4.10 gear. Swapping slicks side to side also made no difference as the car tends to leave initially straight.
 
Does it come out of the water box straight? You can measure the lower ball joint grease zert to the rear axle on each side. Sometimes you can fine a 1/4 inch or more difference just in all the "lazy tolerances" of the car. I've seen some put spacer between the leaf mount and body on one side of the car to get the car to track true.
 
ALL of this is covered in the Mopar Performance Suspension Book in depth, IF you can find a copy. It shows step by step how to STOP camber change through the front suspension travel. It's a wealth of information. Mancini used to run them for 10 bucks each plus shipping when they had them.
Thx for that and to @MoparMike1974 . I found the book not too far from me and ordered it. Should have it in a few days.
 
Does it come out of the water box straight? You can measure the lower ball joint grease zert to the rear axle on each side. Sometimes you can fine a 1/4 inch or more difference just in all the "lazy tolerances" of the car. I've seen some put spacer between the leaf mount and body on one side of the car to get the car to track true.
It does come out straight. But I do 3rd gear burnouts and lift as it comes out of the box. I'll have to go think back ..every now and then it will tend to turn a bit in the burnout. I think it's random which direction but I'll confirm. I've always associated that with just pushing/sliding one of the front tires.

On the street, the car seems to track straight and any "heavy accel" jaunts stay straight. I equate that to the fact that it doesn't have traction on the street. No big smoky burnouts on the street prior to launching it!! (Heck, i don't do much standing on it on the street anyway as things happen quickly on public roads. And it's a red car and it's loud and...you get the picture!)

But I think your idea is a good one to measure the left and right track just to be certain as part of this issue. I've just seen videos of the car and see that RF tire looking like it turns in and think there's something there.
 
Does it come out of the water box straight? You can measure the lower ball joint grease zert to the rear axle on each side. Sometimes you can fine a 1/4 inch or more difference just in all the "lazy tolerances" of the car. I've seen some put spacer between the leaf mount and body on one side of the car to get the car to track true.
Thanks for posting this. In an earlier post I noted that my ‘65 Dart measured 3/16” shorter on the right side versus the left between the spring mounts. I only discovered this when I tried to use a fixture I had built to replace a section of sub-frame rail on the left on the right side. At first I thought I had made a serious mistake, but after checking, found out it was wrong from the factory on the right side. I had planned on making some kind of shim to go under the perch to correct this, but wasn’t sure that would be ok. Sounds like it is. Thanks again for posting this.
 
An inch and three quarters?!? I would be looking for something bent on the suspected side.

Yeah that’s nuts. Toe change is generally considered to be acceptable if it’s less than 1/16” per inch of travel. So for the whole range of travel on these cars you’d be looking for less than ~.34” of toe change.

When Bill Reilly did the toe change measurements on an A body for the FMJ spindle swap he was getting less than .1” of toe change for the whole 5.5” range of travel he measured with A-body spindles and less than .2” of toe change with the FMJ spindles. You can see the results he plotted in this article

Swapping Disc-Brake Spindles - Mopar Muscle Magazine

I would guess something other than toe change is being measured here, because if the true toe change was 1.75” on about half the range of travel the car wouldn’t just pull on launch, it would be downright undrivable. That’s off by a factor of 10! Even something in the 1/2” range would be pretty terrible.
 
OK, I'm Probably way out there in left field. I had a B body do the same thing. But, possibly, I misread this, as I'm sicker than heck right now. As I jacked up the Passenger side, I'd see the tire move, bout 3/4 or more, sliding aside jacked it up, and as it left the ground. It was a bad idler arm causing it. Under load the tire did what it was supposed to, as the suspension unloaded, the tire slid laterally..... but no, I Ain't no Mechanic, you can axe RustyRatRod, I have to ask him what a 1/2" ratchet is for everyday
 
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Thanks for posting this. In an earlier post I noted that my ‘65 Dart measured 3/16” shorter on the right side versus the left between the spring mounts. I only discovered this when I tried to use a fixture I had built to replace a section of sub-frame rail on the left on the right side. At first I thought I had made a serious mistake, but after checking, found out it was wrong from the factory on the right side. I had planned on making some kind of shim to go under the perch to correct this, but wasn’t sure that would be ok. Sounds like it is. Thanks again for posting this.
Wow Dude!
 
OK, I'm Probably way out there in left field. I had a B body do the same thing. But, possibly, I misread this, as I'm sicker than heck right now. As I jacked up the Passenger side, I'd see the tire move, bout 3/4 or more, sliding aside jacked it up, and as it left the ground. It was a bad idler arm causing it. Under load the tire did what it was supposed to, as the suspension unloaded, the tire slid laterally..... but no, I Ain't no Mechanic, you can axe RustyRatRod, I have to ask him what a 1/2" ratchet is for everyday

Something like that would be the only way I could see that much movement not making the car completely undrivable, it would have to be a response specifically to being fully unloaded. Because if it always had that much toe change the steering would be all over the place and the tire wear would be ridiculous.
 
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