Tons of Questions on Front-end Rebuild!!

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64 SRT8 Dart

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Hey everyone, got a lot of questions (some might be stupid) regarding rebuilding the front end on my 66 Valiant and then some....hope this is the right section for all this?? I'm also gonna go ahead and switch to the BBP discs I got off a 76 Dart last fall. I have the spindles, rotors, calipers and caliper brackets. Also, gonna swap to manual steering from a box out of a 64 Dart /6.
I plan on ordering the tubular uca's from RMS. Also, gonna try and get a set of the tubular lowers from Badart.
Now with all that being said...will my factory strut rods work with the tubulars from Badart? What would be the best front shock/coil-over to work with this combo?...knowing I'm gonna have to brace the shock tower.
I'm gonna order my front-end kit from P-S-T but have some questions with that. When ordering my kit, do I tell them I need a pitman arm for manual steering out of a 64 Dart or will it be the same as if it were in my Valiant or does it matter? Will the 66 Valiant outer tie rod ends work with the 76 Dart spindles? Is the lower ball joint the same between the two years? I've never ordered anything from P-S-T, are they pretty knowledgable on this stuff and won't send me the wrong stuff when I tell them what I need? I'm kind of stressing a little bit about it because I don't want to get the wrong stuff to only get into the middle of the build and it be the wrong stuff....this is my daily driver, so all of this will have to get done on a weekend.
What's a good master cylinder to run (manual) for my year of car with disc/drums that will work with the factory plunger rod??
About the car... a stock 273 Valiant 2dr w/904 and full interior that's daily driven.
It's weight is stock as well....never weighed it so.....
Eventually the car is going to end up as more of a Pro-Street/touring type car so wanting to do upgrades while I'm having to fix stuff.
Everone's help and advice for a "suspension noob" is very much appreciated!!
 
Please when posting long posts use paragraph breaks it makes it much easier to read. Many people don't take the time to read one long paragraph. That being said.

64 and 66 are the same body type the 64 pitman arm should bolt to your center link

You are fine with factory 66 tie rods. Tie rod attaches to LBJ not spindle

Lower ball joints will need to be 73-76 a body. You will need to grind down the steering stops on the lbj or else your turning radius will HUUUUGE. No spec on this procedure just make both sides have the same turns to lock from center.

Upper ball joints need to be 73-76, but that will be handled by the RMS uca. Paint the uppers before you install, they look nasty after they rust. Unless it has been apart before the upper control arm cam bolts will very likely be seized and need to be cut out. Some will tell you force it loose with large breaker bar, I don't like putting all that force on the mount tabs to save $40 of cam bolts.

I have no knowledge on badart tublar lca send him a pm.

For master cylinder selection how much pedal effort do you want?
 
Thanks mcnoople! It would be nice to have not have a whole lot of pedal effort but I'll take what I can get, as long as it works smoothly and nicely.
 
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