Too much horsepower?

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why risk all those great parts in a stock block? if its a true 790hp the block will not last long. I'd look for a race block and go from there. the cheapest part of your engine I'd bet is the stock block ..LOL
 
darndart said:
I was wondering how much power a 30 spline 8 3/4" can handle. I was just about to order a new set of Moser 30 spline axles for my new 410" build(close to 600 hp), but I wonder if I shouldn't just get a set of 35 spline axles & matching spool, just to be safe???
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Yes I would just order the 35 spline axels and spool,better safe than $orry.I have a feeling my gears will be next to break(bought new)I hope your also buying new race gears?Here,s a pic of a 25 inch 30 spline race axel from STRANGE.Running behind a 500plus HP SB.
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 214.jpg

View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 216.jpg
 
The heads are 2.08 valve W5's that peak flow 325 @ .700 and the lower lift numbers are really good too. The cam is a crane roller 276/.727 and 283/.727, net lift at the valve is .698/.717. You can see how much the pushrod angle affects the actual lift on the intake as both lobes measured the same.

I know it's just a sim and they may be generous but when they made 650 HP with that cam in a SS 340 it makes me think. Iron heads, stock size valves, and single thermoquad on that motor plus I have another 44 cubic inches so it makes me wonder. I've got a good bit of money invested in this block now, it's been bored and honed with a plate, tall filled with hardblock and a Hughes main girdle on it. I never really dreamed it would make 700 HP, which may be closer but I have to think now that it will do better than that.

I'd love to put it on a dyno but I don't know if I can swing it right now. Work is slow and my funds are drying up faster than the water in a Japanese nuclear reactor.

It will go together and make some passes so we'll see what happens.
 
Guitar Jones said:
The heads are 2.08 valve W5's that peak flow 325 @ .700 and the lower lift numbers are really good too. The cam is a crane roller 276/.727 and 283/.727, net lift at the valve is .698/.717. You can see how much the pushrod angle affects the actual lift on the intake as both lobes measured the same.

I know it's just a sim and they may be generous but when they made 650 HP with that cam in a SS 340 it makes me think. Iron heads, stock size valves, and single thermoquad on that motor plus I have another 44 cubic inches so it makes me wonder. I've got a good bit of money invested in this block now, it's been bored and honed with a plate, tall filled with hardblock and a Hughes main girdle on it. I never really dreamed it would make 700 HP, which may be closer but I have to think now that it will do better than that.

I'd love to put it on a dyno but I don't know if I can swing it right now. Work is slow and my funds are drying up faster than the water in a Japanese nuclear reactor.

It will go together and make some passes so we'll see what happens.
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MPH will give you all the info you need as to how much HP the engine makes!
 
IMO, 790 is gona be tough. I've got a buddy with a 440 W8 motor, 15:1, heads flow like 388 intake, 284/292 @ .050 807 lift cam, all nice stuff. I think he dynoed 748.
 
darndart said:
I was wondering how much power a 30 spline 8 3/4" can handle. I was just about to order a new set of Moser 30 spline axles for my new 410" build(close to 600 hp), but I wonder if I shouldn't just get a set of 35 spline axles & matching spool, just to be safe???
Click to expand...

I have Moser 35 spline axels and spool in my car (8 3/4). It has been in there for 10 years now, no problems at all...that was with a nitrous huffing small block for 8 of those years, now a 10 second NA small block.
 
With what you have for heads, I'd be very surprised to see that hit anything more than around 650, depending on the mid-lift figures. You need more duration to really let the heads work and get big numbers. You also really cant compare to Stock or Super Stock. They are an entirely different animal. Put it together and dyno it. Then worry if needed. I really dont think you'll need to sweat it much. (not meant as a cut, just going on info provided)
 
800 hp...:shock:

what cyl heads for a small block can support that kinda power...???

is that intake sheet metal ?
 
My heads flow a little less than yours (300@ .700, 2.055 valves), and my cam is an FT cam 251/257 duration with a little over .600 net lift. I have about 20 cubes on you, and mine dyno'd at 513HP, 526 lb/ft. I really don't see 25cfm more flow (with probably less velocity and more shrouding) and the cam difference being good for an extra 277 HP.
You said the block is partially filled and has a girdle.. I think it would be ok to run it. Limit the RPM's and adjust the throttle cable so it doesn't quite open WOT if you're really worried about it.
 
moper said:
With what you have for heads, I'd be very surprised to see that hit anything more than around 650, depending on the mid-lift figures. You need more duration to really let the heads work and get big numbers. You also really cant compare to Stock or Super Stock. They are an entirely different animal. Put it together and dyno it. Then worry if needed. I really dont think you'll need to sweat it much. (not meant as a cut, just going on info provided)
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I understand what you're saying. I never say I know it all but I do know a good bit. You seem to be a knowledgable guy from what I read from your posts. I know a lot of the the Stock, Super Stock stuff, I've known these guys for decades.They didn't use this cam because it didn't make enough HP. I'm not saying I'm building my junk to SS level but my heads and induction system are much better than what they have to use.

I was only looking to make 650-660 HP with this motor. I was just blown away by what the sims spit out and then what I was told that cam made in their engine so if it does come close I'm probably going to be in trouble. :)
 
moper said:
With what you have for heads, I'd be very surprised to see that hit anything more than around 650, depending on the mid-lift figures. You need more duration to really let the heads work and get big numbers. You also really cant compare to Stock or Super Stock. They are an entirely different animal. Put it together and dyno it. Then worry if needed. I really dont think you'll need to sweat it much. (not meant as a cut, just going on info provided)
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I agree with moper
 
I would be A LOT more worried about the car than the block and rear end at that level. The block should be fine as long as the machining is good and everything is well balanced. The rear end could end up being a problem, but, without SERIOUS mods, I would be most worried about twisting the body! 790hp is WAY beyond what a unibody car can take with out going into pretzel mode.
 
Hey, here's an x-block with the mains and most of the machine work done (on moparts). You might have to open the bores up. You could sell the pistons and whatever else you don't need to offset the cost, but you can't beat the price. If I wasn't broke and too far away, I'd get it (take away either of the 2 and I'd get it):

Have mopar X block 4.04 bore
4 bolt billet steel mains w/arp hardware
lifter bores bushed with oil holes to oil through push rods
new Diamond pistons and rings(were for 4.25 crank approx 14.0 to 1)
Ryan said can be used with smaller crank and longer rods
ready to be assemblied still at Ryan's, Shady Dell, all fresh machine work done.
Asking 1700.00 with pistons obo
Brad 610-960-8579 or [email protected]
 
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