Too much timing?

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furrystump said:
Sometimes a cleaned plug doesn’t come back to full performance. I run cheap autolites just so I can throw new plugs in Willy Nilly and not cry.
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I have an old friend who says running rich for too long "kills the plugs" ....and for lack of better terms, I've found he's right, It does happen sometimes. Strange as it sounds.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Im gonna bump it ups some and dial total down. I think I'm gonna change springs again too, to get it all in sooner
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I forget, where is the initial now? Oh and FWIW, I bump 2 degrees at a time and retest. It's just always worked well for "ME". Just a little at a time.
 
Keep in mind, you likely won't here detonation at cruise. Should be able to see signs of detonation on plugs if it's a problem.
 
fishmens67 said:
Keep in mind, you likely won't here detonation at cruise. Should be able to see signs of detonation on plugs if it's a problem.
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Yup. You'll see it as small specks of aluminum on the plugs. That's pistons. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
I forget, where is the initial now? Oh and FWIW, I bump 2 degrees at a time and retest. It's just always worked well for "ME". Just a little at a time.
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14 initial 34 total without va, about 51 total with va
 
fishmens67 said:
Keep in mind, you likely won't here detonation at cruise. Should be able to see signs of detonation on plugs if it's a problem.
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I just pulled all the plugs I didn't see anything unusual other that the sooty black. The insulators looked like a pretty good color kinda copper Tanish color I should have took pictures the ground strap was too sooty to see any timing lines I couldn't see anything on them other than black soot.
 
Sounds rich.

I use a wideband O2 sensor for tuning it works wonders.
 
dartfreak75 said:
14 initial 34 total without va, about 51 total with va
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I think it can definitely stand more initial. You'll need to limit total to no more than 36 initial plus mechanical. I forget. What did the static compression end up being?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think it can definitely stand more initial. You'll need to limit total to no more than 36 initial plus mechanical. I forget. What did the static compression end up being?
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Hell I can't remember either hahaha. It was somewhere in the 10.25-10.5 range the cylinder pressure was 175 I do remember that
 
dartfreak75 said:
Hell I can't remember either hahaha. It was somewhere in the 10.25-10.5 range the cylinder pressure was 175 I do remember that
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Ok. It may not can stand much more. I thought I remembered it being in the 10 range, but I was not sure. It won't hurt a thing to try and see. Just keep an ear out for detonation......and keep a feel for it too. when it detonates, the power will instantly fall off, so you can feel it as well. The important part here is to limit the mechanical total.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Sounds expensive haha
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It's a couple hundred bucks. But you can really tune the carb effectively especially for part throttle operation. You can play with timing and fuel mixtures and actually get really lean cruising/part throttle operation and it runs cleaner. You don't leave the car smelling like exhaust, and it saves a lot on fuel too
 
Mean416 said:
It's a couple hundred bucks. But you can really tune the carb effectively especially for part throttle operation. You can play with timing and fuel mixtures and actually get really lean cruising/part throttle operation and it runs cleaner. You don't leave the car smelling like exhaust, and it saves a lot on fuel too
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Yea that is true. I'm gonna look into them.
 
Mean416 said:
It's a couple hundred bucks. But you can really tune the carb effectively especially for part throttle operation. You can play with timing and fuel mixtures and actually get really lean cruising/part throttle operation and it runs cleaner. You don't leave the car smelling like exhaust, and it saves a lot on fuel too
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You you just use one o2 sensor or two one for each bank?
 
Update! I finally got around to messing with it again today. I pulled the distributor replaced the springs with 2 light ones to get the all in sooner. And closed the gap on the mechanical advance to limit the total. Now im all in by 2600 I set the initial at 20 and the total came out at 34 it ran like a scalded dog!!. The pop is gone and the hesitation is somewhat better. The wot bog is still there but im 99.9999% sure that's the AF we talked about earlier. At 3/4 throttle no hesitation no bog. At a roll with the rpms all ready up no bog. Just when I floor it from a dead stop. Seems to me like it's really strong until I hit about 3 grand then the bog kicks in for a split sec then once I get past 3-3400 it hits 5k like nothing! I am going to have to dial the initial back some more tho after about 30 mins of driving I shut it off and restarted it after about 5 mins and did get some starter kick back. So im gonna take about 4 degrees out of it. I will have to add 4 degree to the mechanical stop to get my total back to 34. But making some progress. Tbh the "bog" is probably helping me out as this thing just wants to spin! When the bog happens it stops spinning until it hits second gear then starts spinning again lol
 
Sounds like you're beginning to have a good understanding of the timing curve. The bog sounds like the secondary air door still. You're gettin close.
 
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