Torque Strap?

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Abodysrule

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I'm doing a Slant 6 to 360 Magnum swap. I'm using the Schumacher motor mounts, trimming the driver's side slant six k-frame mount, drilling a new bolt hole for the Schumacher mount as per instructions. OK, so the instructions also recommend using a torque strap for "...any high performance and/or racing situation...". After cutting/drilling the driver's side mount, there is a thin (3/16" wide?) strip of metal on one side of the new hole for the motor mount bolt. Perhaps they believe this is a weak point. My 360 will have about 370 hp/400+ lb ft of torque. I'm definitely not racing, but does anyone think I need a torque strap for safety reasons. I won't be pushing it hard, but I do like the occasional burnout. What about strengthening this weak point? I'm thinking it's likely fine without a torque strap, it'll be only street use, no racing, but....anyone done this conversion and have any relevant experience?

Brian
 
....and if I use the Schumacher torque strap (73-76 k frame) does it get in the way of the sway bar mounts? Looks like it will, I'll have to modify the bracket to accomodate the sway bar bolts closer to the front.
 
A very simple tq strap: get some chain from a hardware store, with the links large enough for a 3/8" bolt to pass through. One end should be bolted high-ish up on the engine. Other end to frame. Get some plastic tube/hose to fit over the hose to keep it positioned & stop any rattling.
 
This is not a "weak point". On high performance applications this is good insurance. In high torque events the motor torques to the right tending to rip apart the left motor mount. This occurs with original type mounts. Having "locking type" motor mount or a torque strap will keep the motor in it's place.
 
Biscuit type mount you need them so if you loose your mount you don't cut your radiator hose. Spool type mounts you shouldn't need them .JMO
 
Does Schumacher not offer poly locker's any more? I use a poly locker on my drivers side and regular rubber mount on passenger. Does a decent job of not sounding too much like solid mounts unless I'm on the skinny pedal.

GL!
 
So this not spool type mount? This is what I did. 1/4” steel sandwiched between the mount and the k frame. With fingers that can each behind the motor side mount.

CB57FAA5-D884-405F-9699-1E8B6C8532A1.jpeg
 
Thanks All, mine is spool type, so after trimming the excess as per Schumacher's instructions, the metal remaining has a weak point for sure. See where red arrow is pointing in pic (I haven't cleaned up the cuts yet) obviously a weak point. OK, I'll go with a torque strap for insurance...

1.jpg
 
I suppose I could also weld that weak point or weld or bolt a steel plate across it...you can see in the close up below just how big this notch is. Why did they even have that notch in the spool mount?

1.jpg
 
i'd weld a nice thicker washer to the outside and then notch it to match. your 'weak' spot is now at least double the thickness so plenty strong enough and no need to spend and money.
neil.
ps what is the notch supposed to clear? got any pics? maybe shave a bit off of that so the notch you've made won't need to be so 'deep'. share the clearancing as it were.
 
I copied the Schumacker design, but bought everything I needed from McMaster for about $50 instead. Saved a good amount that way. Don't mind the spark plug wire retainer, it just looks like it's connecting it to the oil pump but it's just the pic angle. And this is on a big block, but should still work.

20231001_111448.jpg
 
I've used a small length of chain bolted to MM bracket down to Kframe. Slid it in an old bicycle tube so it doesn't rattle.
Yes, I'm old school.
 
furrystump said:
So this not spool type mount? This is what I did. 1/4” steel sandwiched between the mount and the k frame. With fingers that can each behind the motor side mount.

View attachment 1716154491
Click to expand...
Beautiful design on this one...

I think I will weld washers on that driver's side mount, centered with the new holes I drilled. That will strengthen the mount, give me some comfort over that flimsy looking notch/weak spot...and a torque strap. Thanks all.
 
I used the Schumaker on my stroker and 360 along with their Poly-loc mounts never an issue :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Bewy said:
A very simple tq strap: get some chain from a hardware store, with the links large enough for a 3/8" bolt to pass through. One end should be bolted high-ish up on the engine. Other end to frame. Get some plastic tube/hose to fit over the hose to keep it positioned & stop any rattling.
Click to expand...
I broke several mounts on my van with a 340. I also installed a chain and it solved the problem. Driver side only needed as its the torque side.
 
I tried the Schumacher Poly-mounts, and ended up taking them off within a few weeks. They transmitted significant engine vibrations and harmonics into my dash.

I swapped them out for the stock rubber biscuit mounts and added the Schumacher torque strap. This set-up eliminated the dash harmonics and is holding up to regular abuse.
 
Swinger 340 said:
I broke several mounts on my van with a 340. I also installed a chain and it solved the problem. Driver side only needed as its the torque side.
Click to expand...
I we nt to the local farm store and bought a aluminum turnbuckle. It was a double eye and polished up nice and worked well.
 
I took a couple of pieces of angle iron, welded one to the K member and bolted the other to the motor mount bolt and used a sway bar link for my torque strap.

20231023_095734.jpg
 
I love the ingenuity on these homemade designs. The sway bar link one and the 1/4" steel around the biscuit ones are really clean designs.
 
mygasser said:
i'd weld a nice thicker washer to the outside and then notch it to match. your 'weak' spot is now at least double the thickness so plenty strong enough and no need to spend and money.
neil.
ps what is the notch supposed to clear? got any pics? maybe shave a bit off of that so the notch you've made won't need to be so 'deep'. share the clearancing as it were.
Click to expand...
I welded a washer to the back side of that rear tab, I don't believe the notch is to clear anything. Maybe the original tranny lines ran through that? Anyway, bad design, no need for the notch.
 
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