Torsion Bar Install

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tubbedamx

tubbedamx

Location Boise, Idaho
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Location
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I know this has been discussed a bunch because I did a search. However, there still seems to be some confusion at least on my part on how to install them correctly.

In my case the car is on jack stands, the front-end is completely new and this is my first time...

In a step by step this is how it seem like it should go.
1) Loosen or have loose the lower control arm pivot "The bolt that goes through the K-member.
2) back the torsion bolt adjuster out "In the bottom of the lower control arm.
3) Remove shock or remove the lower shock bolt
4) Remove the Upper Control arm rubber bump stop

"To allow the lower control arm to have the most drop towords the ground"

5) At this time the lower control arm should be hanging and somewhat easy to pivot down.
6) Install torsion bar "Rubber Boot" on the engine side of the tranmission crossmember
7) Add grease to the lower control arm torsion bar socket. I would guess be generous and wipe off any excess when complete.
8) Apply grease to to hex hole in the crossmember

Now I have read, that front-to back on the torsion bar does not matter Just left to right...?? Left being drivers side.

9) Slide in the torsion bars through the hex hole, pull the torsion bar forward towards the lower control arm. Pivot the lower control am untill the lower control arm matches the torsion bar and slide it in.

this is a grey area
10) seat the boot on the torsion bar, but first add grease to the inside and around the torsion bar,
11) add some grease to the rear "However I don't know what it would do" and install the clip.

another grey area
12) now finger tight the torsion bar adjustment untill things are just snug and maybe go two more turns for starters.
13) install shocks and rubber bump stops.

14) When car is put back on the ground get your ride height figured out by adjusting the bolt and measuring from a common area.

15) Torque down the lower control arm pivot nut, and in my case torque down the upper control arm bolts.

From reading all the post I can find and putting them together this is what I came up with....Does this sound right from a newbie
 
I was sixteen when I rebuilt the front end of my 68 Charger. I let the car down and needless to say I had a low rider. I had to jack the car back up and start all over. I did get it right after all was said and done. It has been a while but what you described seems like it would work. I like to see what others have to say.
 
Just a little added note to #14....

Jounce the car a couple of times to "settle" the suspension before adjusting and measuring the ride height.
 
first measure the height of the finder lip before you start, will help in step 14.
If I am not mistaken 9 and 10 kinda go together. The bars slide in from the rear of the car, once started through the socket slide the boot on from the front. then push the bar up to the lower control arm. the boot will keep water, mud and all the other crap from getting into the socket.
Now the grease will make it eaiser to take apart "if needed" or will simply keep it from rusting in the socket and keeping the squeaks away.
Finger tight the bolts so that you can set the ride height when ready.

Getting ready to do it again myself. I swaped to a 74 disk brakes and did not do good inspection before. Now after I got larger wheels and tires I noticed my lower control arm is bent. so now I need to replace that. good thing I have a good parts car.
Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the help and advise. The bars went in yesterday and it wasn't to hard. I haven't set the ride height but I will in the next couple of days.
 
tensec340 said:
I thought there was a front and back not just left and right ?? maybe I'm wrong ??
Click to expand...

I thought so to, however I did search on "Torsion bars" and just about every thread that discussing installing them said there is no front-back requirement just left and right.
 
When installing the T bars i always place the numbers on the end to the rear of the car as this is the way i have found em to be when coming out of an original car and of course note the "R" and "L". Make sure your ring clips are seated in the grooves. I knew you could do it. Proud of ya.
 
One of them has a paint sstripe, or I just looked in a 1972 Chilton book-the should have a l and r stamped on the end. Not inter-changable; used to different direction of twisting.
 
green1 said:
One of them has a paint sstripe, or I just looked in a 1972 Chilton book-the should have a l and r stamped on the end. Not inter-changable; used to different direction of twisting.
Click to expand...


I installed them with L and R markings towards the rear of the car. I have no idea how they came out. I wish like hell I would have paid attention...

Hopfully, they'll work that way.
 
"jouncing" the front end won't settle the suspension, torsion bars are more dynamic in their action so if you want to figure out how it will sit you'll need to roll the car. Also, if the bars are brand new they will settle a little as you drive it over time. Not as much as leafs do, but they do settle.
 
I thought they put 1 stripe for left, and 2 stripes for right? Like yelllow, olive, blue....
 
tubbedamx said:
I installed them with L and R markings towards the rear of the car. I have no idea how they came out. I wish like hell I would have paid attention...

Hopfully, they'll work that way.
Click to expand...

You've probably already figured it out but make sure the ride height is set properly then aligned properly...all the difference in the world! D
 
6pk2goDemon said:
Just a little added note to #14....

Jounce the car a couple of times to "settle" the suspension before adjusting and measuring the ride height.
Click to expand...


This will only be an initial measure & adjust. Of course, when you get to the alignment shop it should be checked again for level and readjusted as necessary. :profilel:
 
tubbedamx said:
I know this has been discussed a bunch because I did a search. However, there still seems to be some confusion at least on my part on how to install them correctly.

In my case the car is on jack stands, the front-end is completely new and this is my first time...

In a step by step this is how it seem like it should go.
1) Loosen or have loose the lower control arm pivot "The bolt that goes through the K-member.
2) back the torsion bolt adjuster out "In the bottom of the lower control arm.
3) Remove shock or remove the lower shock bolt
4) Remove the Upper Control arm rubber bump stop

"To allow the lower control arm to have the most drop towords the ground"

5) At this time the lower control arm should be hanging and somewhat easy to pivot down.
6) Install torsion bar "Rubber Boot" on the engine side of the tranmission crossmember
7) Add grease to the lower control arm torsion bar socket. I would guess be generous and wipe off any excess when complete.
8) Apply grease to to hex hole in the crossmember

Now I have read, that front-to back on the torsion bar does not matter Just left to right...?? Left being drivers side.

9) Slide in the torsion bars through the hex hole, pull the torsion bar forward towards the lower control arm. Pivot the lower control am untill the lower control arm matches the torsion bar and slide it in.

this is a grey area
10) seat the boot on the torsion bar, but first add grease to the inside and around the torsion bar,
11) add some grease to the rear "However I don't know what it would do" and install the clip.

another grey area
12) now finger tight the torsion bar adjustment untill things are just snug and maybe go two more turns for starters.
13) install shocks and rubber bump stops.

14) When car is put back on the ground get your ride height figured out by adjusting the bolt and measuring from a common area.

15) Torque down the lower control arm pivot nut, and in my case torque down the upper control arm bolts.

From reading all the post I can find and putting them together this is what I came up with....Does this sound right from a newbie
Click to expand...

Thanks man! This is now saved to my computer so I can refer to it when I do the 66.:cheers:
 
340 Dart said:
Thanks man! This is now saved to my computer so I can refer to it when I do the 66.:cheers:
Click to expand...

No Problem it sure helped me out...Just be sure to read through the thread and add the suggestions that others have made.

For example, slide the torsions bars through the hex hole in the the rear and then slide on the rubber boots. Also, be sure to mark/label your torsions bars as far as front/back and left/right. I would also suggest getting one of those tools that clamps onto the torsion bar so they can be knocked out with a hammer or make one. Alot has been suggested to on ride height.

jim..
 
the last 3 digits of the part #'s are stamped in the end of the bar....if the last digit is even, its a right side bar and if its odd, its a left side bar. The newer ones I've seen are stamped R and L too. I've read that the numbers are in the anchor(x-member) end, but I've seen part #'s on both ends with a date code on one end and letters on the other end, so i assume the date coded end goes to the back?
 
The color stripe denotes the bar thickness; "340" bars had a blue stripe, 0.89" thick, P/N 892(R bar) and 893(L bar). I believe the slant 6 bars were white,0.87" thick, P/N 890 and...but they hit the recycle bin so fast it wasn't funny!
 
Something else to remember.

Dont tighten the lower control arm nut(bolt through k-member), untill the car is on the ground, and the suspension height has been set.

Always loosen the lower control arm nut, when adjusting the height.

Failure to do either will damage/rip the lower control arm bushing.
 
Just a side note to this old thread. Mopar Direct Connection Tech's say, install torsion bars with the numbers to the rear. There are letters and numbers on one end of the bars and just numbers on the other end. (with the exception of the Left and Right markings) Drivers side is marked with an L. Passenger side is marked with an R. Hope this helps make your installation easier.
 
As stated above, left and right bars twist in opposite directions, so must go in the correct side.

Front and rear does not matter if the torsion bar hexes are not offset in their clocking. Hold a pen horizontally in front of you with one hand on each end. Now twist one way with your left hand and the opposite way with your right to simulate the twisting action in one direction. Without letting go cross your hands to reverse the direction of the pen while twisting, and you will see that the pen is still twisting in the same direction.

If the hexes on the bar are offest, then reversing the front and back may affect the preload of the spring at a given height, so front/rear position will have some impact, either more or less preload at intended ride height. In this case, it would be important that both are installed in the same F/R direction or preload will vary from side to side.

Grant
 
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