torsion bar re install, too high too low

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cali_scamp

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Reinstalling torsion bars on a 71 scamp(first time for me). They end up with way too much tension with the car a good 6" above ride height or bottoming out with no tension at all. Right now I have the lca and spindle supported with a jack to get the uca on, but its pretty much lifting the car off the jack stand. Seems like I am missing something. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Whatever you do and whenever you finish, you'll still need to put the car on a rack and get an alignment
 
Is the engine in the car?

The proper way to index them is to install the bars with the lca's pointed as far down as they will go. If you install them with the lca's near ride height, then you'll have to run the adjusters all the way in to get it up to stock ride height (unless you have larger diameter torsion bars).

What are the adjusters set at? They should be slack for installing the UCA, so you should be able to just lift the LCA up.
 
Thanks for the reply and advice. I realized the top part of the adjuster mechanism in the lca was positioned too high so I made it even with the lca and backed the adjuster bolt all the way out (I read on the forum it makes it easier to get the torsion bars in). Also, I had the other side on a jack the first few attempts, so I am hoping once I have both sides installed and after a good jounce the car while sit proper. With new lca's, uca's, tie rods, strut rods, wheels, tires and disc brakes Im pretty eager to experience the improvements. This site has been a wealth of info, really appreciate the resources. I'll post pics when she's sitting proper!
 
Very first time I started taking things apart, the torsion bars still had just a little load on them. Guy I worked with said jack the knuckle up and remove the bump stop under the upper arm. that did the trick. That 2 inches or so drop in the knuckle relieved the tension on the bars. It went back together the same way.
I'll mention just incase... Don't torque the lower arm pivot pins nut or the upper arm eccentrics until the knuckle is about centered where it will live. This isn't so critical with some of the modern poly bushings but with OEM type bonded rubber bushing, preventing hardware rotation can tear the new bushing apart at first jounce.
Happy moparing
 
Sorry guys for the late reply, more wrenching less typing. Got the torsion bars in and she is sitting quite low after a spin around the block, I will put her back on jacks and raise the ride height up again, seems I forgot the the bump stop for one of the uca's as well. Having a time of setting the camber proper, originally I had the Hotchkis adjustable uca's but two sets where mis manufactured, so I got a refund from summit, went with QAI uca's and with the money saved purchased a set of QAI lca's. Yes I am a newbie, now I am seeing the huge benefit of adjustable uca's. Also, seems there is no bump stop for the lca's. Have an alignment scheduled this week at Roger Kraus Racing in Castro Valley, they assure me it's "no problem", will let you know how it goes and post some pics.
 
Don't let them adjust it to the old stock specs, and have them do it to the radial tire specs.

Pick your intended usage and have them follow these specs and your car will drive a lot nicer.
 

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Snake said:
were are the pickssssssssssssssssssssssssss
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TrailBeast said:
Don't let them adjust it to the old stock specs, and have them do it to the radial tire specs.

Pick your intended usage and have them follow these specs and your car will drive a lot nicer.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will bring this with me to the shop. Took it around the block, disc brakes are sweet. The shop recommended I get it close to ride height (my preference) as possible, kinda hard without a level driveway...

Now I gotta save for that Dana!
 
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