torsion bar system, i need help

-
S

SinSled13

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
Location
Wheeling, WV
i have never messed with torsion bars so some of thse questions may seem stupid. I bought a 75 dart that had a broken torsion bar when i got it. I picked up a set of torsion bars and have read thru some threads on here on how to change them. However the torsion bars arent how i pictured them in my head so if you could let me know what all the parts and pieces are, and if everything looks ok.

Here is the back side of the cross member, i know this is where the end of the torsion bar slides into. Ill admit this is where i though the tension adjusters and stuff were but by looking at it i realize that is not the case.
DSCF0729.jpg


this is the drivers side up at the wheel, the drivers side is the side that is broken. the piece that is sticking up, is that part of the adjuster? This piece is a lot higher than on the passenger side.
DSCF0731.jpg


This is the passenger side
DSCF0732.jpg


then there is this bolt, what is it for?
DSCF0733.jpg
 
So, your on the right track, first spray some PB blaster or comparable penetrating oil on the parts you plan on working on.


Then:

* In the first pic, remove the grease and dirt, then there is a lock ring in there, remove it.

* Then unscrew the bolt in the 3rd pic, this is your ride height/tension adjustment.

Then there are a couple ways to go:

*You can beat on the end of the LCA after you release it... With the nut on the end of course. Which, I would recommend, giving you the chance to inspect the bushings there, which might be a good idea, looking at the rest of the car.

OR

*or take a bike handlebar stem, and wrap it around the bar and tap it out with your BFH.

handlebar_stem.jpg


The bar should slide out the back without issue.


Also, it looks a little rusty down there, so heat up the areas where the bar connects with a propane torch beofore you start wacking.



Be sure to replace the dust boots also.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...rsion-Bar-Dust-Boots/Model/DART/?autoview=SKU

If you have fitment issues with the new neoprene boots, toss them in a pot of boiling water for a minute or two, should soften right up.


Good luck, enjoy!
 
Well, I've never seen a broken torsion bar. But sure looks like you found one.
I'm thinking that there is a broken off piece sticking out the front in you second pic.
If this is the case, you may not need that tool.
(The tool is to avoid scratching the torsion bar long ways with vise grips. A bad thing that can that breakage you've experianced)
Take the ring out like he said and hit the piece, if it is there, to the rear.
The rear "hex" will move aft and out of it's socket.
Your second picture "hex" is where the front part of the bar goes into the "lca".
Note the approximate postion of those treads on the adjuster screw.
Lube it good and screw to "unwind" the new torsion bar you are going to put in there.
When you get the new torsion bar installed run the screw back to it approximate original position and check the car sitting on level ground.
This determines the ride height of your car and affects the alignment.
I"m hoping you can get the front end back to level between the two sides by moving that screw and shouldn't need an alignment.
 
i appreciate all the help, just started a new job and am working a lot of overtime and want to get this fixed in the little spare time i have. really want to take it for at least a cruise around the block.
 
If you loosen the lower control arm nut, the one that goes through the k-frame, that adjuster arm that sticks up can be rotated back into position. You need to spray all that down with WD-40 or PB Blaster to break the rust free. When you get it all together the lower control arm nut on the k-frame, leave that a little loose and give it its final tightening when the wheels are on the ground with the weight of the car on them.

If you are looking to get the other torsion bar out, the one that is not broken, take off lower control arm nut at k-frame and the strut rod nut at k-frame, remove clip at rear of the torsion bar, put a piece of wood on the LCA and whack it with a big hammer to drive the bar back. Again put some PB Blaster or WD-40 on all the rusted parts.
 

Attachments

  • FrontSuspensionNuts.jpg
    114 KB · Views: 816
PoisonDart74 said:
* Then unscrew the bolt in the 3rd pic, this is your ride height/tension adjustment.
Click to expand...

This is NOT a tension adjustment, only a ride height adjustment. You will NEVER add or remove twist to the bar as long as you have distance between the LCA bumper and frame. ALL the bolt does is move the body of the LCA away from the torsion bar socket arm (the piece the bolt rides against).
 
Jim Lusk said:
This is NOT a tension adjustment, only a ride height adjustment. You will NEVER add or remove twist to the bar as long as you have distance between the LCA bumper and frame. ALL the bolt does is move the body of the LCA away from the torsion bar socket arm (the piece the bolt rides against).
Click to expand...

Dude relax, does the term really disturb you that much? It's not like he's gonna die if I match some of his lingo so he can understand better. Sorry. :prayer:
 
if that bolt is only for ride height, what do you loosen to take the tension off the bar to remove it?
 
Bolt for ride height also adjusts tension on torsion bar. That bolt must be backed off full before attempting bar removal. A generous application of PB Blaster, and some soak time will make the job go a lot easier.

You need to jack car up at intersection of cross member and front frame connection, fully back off adjuster bolt bottom side of LCA, back off nut securing LCA where it passes through “K” member facing to front, and remove lock ring at rear facing end of torsion bar so it can be slid rearward out through cross member for removal.
 
The bolt only removes tension after it is fully backed off. Otherwise it does nothing to the twist on the bar.

And yes, it is important that people understand what the bolt does for a number of reasons.
 
The adjusting bolt applies tension to the bar. Once the bar is fully pre-loaded with tension the bolt will then adjust the height of the car. So both applies tension and adjust height of the car.
 
Also, for factory bars there is a left and a right bar. They are marked on the ends "L" or "R".
 
It APPLIES tension, does not adjust it (implies adding or removing twist). It is an important distinction.
 
:violent1: Ok Jim, I'm a piece of sh*t, and I deserve to die. Happy now? I hope the OP got it figured out.
 
just wanted to thank everyone, between this thread and some of the others i read i got the torsion bar in pretty easily
 
After watching Jim's lower control arm video I am gonna listen to what he says. I think he knows a thing or two about these suspensions. School is in session ladies...
 
do i tighten the strut rod nut before or after i put the car back on the ground. i know i wait till i put it on the ground to adjust the ride height and tighten the control arm nut.
 
I usually just snug it up , adjust the ride height with the wheels off the ground lower it to the ground give it a bounce or two. Check the ride height ,repeat as necessary . Once your happy with the ride height. Then tighten down the strut rod and lca spindle nuts with the car now resting on the ground.hope that answers your question.,
 
Wow, some people have thin skin in here. The bolt at the lca needs to be torqued to 130 foot lbs, on the ground.
 
Doesn't the car also require a front end wheel alignment afterwards once the torsion bars have been disturbed or adjusted.
 
The nut gets tightened with the car on the ground. Usually the alignment will change with height adjustments and other changes. IT should be checked.
 
JTG said:
Doesn't the car also require a front end wheel alignment afterwards once the torsion bars have been disturbed or adjusted.
Click to expand...

It depends on how close you can get the ride height to it's original state. I'd measure my suspension height before removing the adjuster bolts so I know where to set the height when finished. If the car feels good and there's no noticeable wear on the tires, I wouldn't worry about spending the money to get it aligned. Once the upper control arm and tie rods are touched, I take it in for an alignment no matter what.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top