Trailer deck preference: wood or diamond plate?

What is your preferred deck material for an open car hauler?

  • Wood

  • Diamond plate


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Righty Tighty

Blame it on the dog
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I recently "upgraded" from a 16' utility trailer to an 18' car hauler. It's got a wooden deck and diamond plate drive overs. The wood is in very decent condition, I shouldn't have to think about replacing it for several years.

I know lots of people prefer diamond plate decks, but why? Is there a reason other than longevity? I've walked on lots of diamond plate in other applications, and the traction doesn't really seem all that better than wood.

Follow-up question: If I were to switch to diamond plate, what would be the BEST method to do that? One option is to weld the diamond plate right on top of the wooden deck. I guess the second option would be to remove the wooden planks and start from scratch. But then, I would have to add additional support for the diamond plate.

Let's hear it from the brain trust here....

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Mine is diamond plate. If you change it, it may be best to take it off so the wood doesn't eventually rot out from under the steel that you weld over the top and then let the steel sag between bracing.
 
I go 2x6 tongue and groove put horizontally not the length of the trailer.

All the used motor oil gets brushed on the wood to help preserve it

Steel decks can be slippery when wet and rust out. Some vehicles have a narrower wheelbase so the "drive overs" are a useless point.
C channel frame so the tubes don't rust out. You could technically undercoat it.

Take the A frame jacks and throw them away unless you don't like your tailgates.

Ramp storage is the other annoying thing. Best trailer I had, the ramps were slid into the beaver tail with a door that closed. They were not hanging low catching curbs or have to walk a mile to slide them into something else.
Other issues are light weight axles that are just strong enough to hold two extra lbs. Any more weight and they bend.
That is just my .02 and I have never seen another trailer like I described. Guess I am building my own next time
 
My favorite for car bobcat track how is a Jacobson tilt single axle with 14 ply tires. No ramps,wood deck 12” C channel fenders
 
I like a wood deck trailer. I had an all steel Diamond plate tilt deck trailer once, and I usually had to lay down plywood when I loaded my crawler. This picture is the one time I didn’t, but I wasn’t going far.

IMG_1927.jpeg
 
I have a friend who has delivered cars all over the country for a living since we got outta high school. He says nothing pulls like a good wood deck trailer. I've asked him why several times and he always says "I don't know. That's just how it is". lol
 
Mine is diamond plate. If you change it, it may be best to take it off so the wood doesn't eventually rot out from under the steel that you weld over the top and then let the steel sag between bracing.
Thanks, the more I think about it, it doesn't really make any sense to put steel on top of the wood. I was looking under the deck and there's C channel about every 10 inches crosswise that I could weld it to.
I go 2x6 tongue and groove put horizontally not the length of the trailer.

All the used motor oil gets brushed on the wood to help preserve it

Steel decks can be slippery when wet and rust out. Some vehicles have a narrower wheelbase so the "drive overs" are a useless point.
C channel frame so the tubes don't rust out. You could technically undercoat it.

Take the A frame jacks and throw them away unless you don't like your tailgates.

Ramp storage is the other annoying thing. Best trailer I had, the ramps were slid into the beaver tail with a door that closed. They were not hanging low catching curbs or have to walk a mile to slide them into something else.
Other issues are light weight axles that are just strong enough to hold two extra lbs. Any more weight and they bend.
That is just my .02 and I have never seen another trailer like I described. Guess I am building my own next time
Horizontal isn't a practical option since the C channel runs horizontally. I'd have to add longitudinal supports to attach the wood. I agree on the used motor oil, I roll it on with a paint roller. Takes longer to find the paint roller than it does to roll it on.

What kind of jack do you use instead of an A-frame jack?
 
I like a wood deck trailer. I had an all steel Diamond plate tilt deck trailer once, and I usually had to lay down plywood when I loaded my crawler. This picture is the one time I didn’t, but I wasn’t going far.

View attachment 1716156786
Makes sense, gives the tracks something to bite into. I also like the fact that wood is somewhat of a "consumable," so if you make a boo-boo, you replace one plank and go about your day. Say, is that your new shop in the top left??
I have a friend who has delivered cars all over the country for a living since we got outta high school. He says nothing pulls like a good wood deck trailer. I've asked him why several times and he always says "I don't know. That's just how it is". lol
I wonder if the wood takes up some of the road vibrations, giving a softer pull?
 
Keep the wood. It’s a consumable and easily replaced. I don’t have a preference one way or the other, but I have an 18’ dovetail car hauler with a steel diamond plate deck and I have to strip it and paint it every handful of years to keep it looking nice. I say keep what you have regardless of what it is, wood or steel.
 
Thanks for the input, everyone. I’ve never had an issue with wood, so if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?
 
Say, is that your new shop in the top left??
So that was the first one I got, 20ft wide X 25ft deep. It’s not really a shop, more just a 3 sided enclosed carport, set on railroad ties. I leveled an area and put a gravel floor. Something to park my tractors under & out of the sun mostly. But it proved to be too small and filled up quickly.
For some reason I can’t post the link to my other shop thread, but it’s in the “shop garage and tools” section.

IMG_4070.jpeg
 
Makes sense, gives the tracks something to bite into. I also like the fact that wood is somewhat of a "consumable," so if you make a boo-boo, you replace one plank and go about your day. Say, is that your new shop in the top left??

I wonder if the wood takes up some of the road vibrations, giving a softer pull?
That's a good theory and one I hadn't thought of. I "would" say he's fulla chit, but I know he's not. He's been doing this a long time now. Actually started in 82 a year before we got outta school.
 
My first trailer was steel, and the one advantage of it, is if you have something with no rolling stock, it MIGHT be easier to skid up on. For most of my life, before getting a winch on the present trailer, I used a pair of come-a-longs, modified with grab hooks instead of the useless slip hooks they came with, and just keep leap frogging them while loading.

The junk van, which the first 360 (which failed) and the 727 which I ran came out of, had a damaged/ locked rear axle I bought it on a hot summer day, and took dish soap and 5 gal of water to try and lube the trailer ramps and bed. IT WAS A LOT OF WORK!!!!

I do think that wood (2x) is inherently stronger overall. Or at least requires less under support than steel or aluminum.

I also doubt that diamond plate will help all that much in truly SLICK conditions, AKA oil and or oily water, or ice

I still carry the come-a-longs, by the way, just for extra rigging, or in case the winch dies!!!

This was my old trailer, with the little Cletrac. The trailer had been heavily hacked. It originally was very weak, with stamped tire channels the only real front/ rear support. I "cut in" an old pickup frame for strength, and added steel plate across the frame, so it was not truly a flatbed. Even so, I hauled a LOT of junk on that old girl

This was my Uncle Bill, RIP

Unca_Billsc.JPG

Below, my newer trailer which has also been hacked. I removed the tongue and reworked / extended it to tilt the trailer. Horrid Freight engine hoist jack. One of my smarter moves. This winch is no longer used. It may not be obvious, but the winch mount is a hitch receiver so I can remove it, etc, and actually plug it into the pickup if I need. Present winch is a little HF 2000? 2500? Be careful choosing them. The drum is nowhere near large enough, and if you are not very careful when winding it in, the cable will pile up and bind inside of the drum cross ties.

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Diamond plate is pretty slick when wet in my opinion. I have always had wood, even in my enclosed car hauler. I put on some traction aiding slip tape, with a sandy finish to help wet tires on the ramp. I do just find with it.

Screenshot_20231022_185557_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
I have one of each. If I am towing something low I use the dovetail with diamond plate deck. It works well for hotrods.

For barn finds, equipment and supplies I run the 2x8 wood deck that was pre-treated with Rustoleum oil base ( 1 gallon black + 1qt white ). The boards are attached with 3/8" carriage bolts and the ends are held down with 3/16" strap. It could even survive being loaned out to a relative (not that I would).
 
I've been meaning to reply for a while, but my keyboard broke and I don't like typing long messages on my phone.

So that was the first one I got, 20ft wide X 25ft deep. It’s not really a shop, more just a 3 sided enclosed carport, set on railroad ties. I leveled an area and put a gravel floor. Something to park my tractors under & out of the sun mostly. But it proved to be too small and filled up quickly.
For some reason I can’t post the link to my other shop thread, but it’s in the “shop garage and tools” section.

View attachment 1716156998
Ah yes, I'd been following that thread. The new shop is looking great!
My first trailer was steel, and the one advantage of it, is if you have something with no rolling stock, it MIGHT be easier to skid up on. For most of my life, before getting a winch on the present trailer, I used a pair of come-a-longs, modified with grab hooks instead of the useless slip hooks they came with, and just keep leap frogging them while loading.

The junk van, which the first 360 (which failed) and the 727 which I ran came out of, had a damaged/ locked rear axle I bought it on a hot summer day, and took dish soap and 5 gal of water to try and lube the trailer ramps and bed. IT WAS A LOT OF WORK!!!!

I do think that wood (2x) is inherently stronger overall. Or at least requires less under support than steel or aluminum.

I also doubt that diamond plate will help all that much in truly SLICK conditions, AKA oil and or oily water, or ice

I still carry the come-a-longs, by the way, just for extra rigging, or in case the winch dies!!!

This was my old trailer, with the little Cletrac. The trailer had been heavily hacked. It originally was very weak, with stamped tire channels the only real front/ rear support. I "cut in" an old pickup frame for strength, and added steel plate across the frame, so it was not truly a flatbed. Even so, I hauled a LOT of junk on that old girl

This was my Uncle Bill, RIP

View attachment 1716157029
Below, my newer trailer which has also been hacked. I removed the tongue and reworked / extended it to tilt the trailer. Horrid Freight engine hoist jack. One of my smarter moves. This winch is no longer used. It may not be obvious, but the winch mount is a hitch receiver so I can remove it, etc, and actually plug it into the pickup if I need. Present winch is a little HF 2000? 2500? Be careful choosing them. The drum is nowhere near large enough, and if you are not very careful when winding it in, the cable will pile up and bind inside of the drum cross ties.

View attachment 1716157032
I've seen you mention your tilting trailer "hack" in other threads, always thought that was a brilliant idea. I'd love to do that to a trailer someday.

This new-to-me trailer has a 15,000 lb Smittybilt winch, but according to the previous owner, the clutch mechanism needs work or replaced. I've yet to try it. But, hopefully it's serviceable so I don't have to go the HF route.
 
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