tranny kick down linkage...

[redrag64]

I posted this on the "Early A-Bodies" forum as well..

I bought a 64 Dart GT vert a while ago and have been trying to put it all back together. The previous owner had done a fair amount of work (including a full engine rebuild), but I am the one trying to finish the work and put everything back togther. I need to figure out what is going on with the tranny "kick-down" assembly. Nothing is hooked up, so I am trying to figure out if I am missing parts, and how to set it up. Obviously the throttle cable/bracket is not original, but it looks like the pivots/linkages are there, the lower arm is intact, and I think I might have the other arms (see pictures). Please take a look and let me know what you think. Any feedback - and better yet, pictures of how it should be set-up, would be GREATLY appreciated! THANK YOU!!!

 

[bremereric]

Order some Lokar throttle and transmission kickdown cables and bracket and get it done.....I had to do this on my 452 big block transplant in my 68 Dart...

 

[fishy68]

You will need the original throttle bracket cause it has the pivot point for the linkages to hook up. You will also need the bell crank that bolts to the transmission and the linkage that runs from it to the trans kickdown lever. And you need the linkage that goes from the pivot point on the throttle bracket to the carb. Another potential problem I see is the carb. itself. It doesn't look like a Mopar carb. Looks like a GM linkage carb. There's no way to mount the Mopar specific trans. kickdown linkage stud on it from what I see. If it was me I'd buy a cable kit from Lokar or Bouchillion and install it. Probably won't cost much more, if any, than original parts and a much cleaner install. Plus the cable mounts to the bottom of the carb unlike the stock linkage that mounts to the top of the carb throttle lever. That'd solve all the problems I believe. Just another thought for ya.

BTW: I know it may look neater to wire tie the plug wires together but they can magnetically crossfire like that causing your engine to missfire.

 

[Optik]

X3 on the Lokar setup. Its much much much easier to install and adjust. Throw it in, set it and forget it. I've been running one for about three years now and haven't had to do anything to it once I installed it.
-Tim

 

[redrag64]

You will need the original throttle bracket cause it has the pivot point for the linkages to hook up. You will also need the bell crank that bolts to the transmission and the linkage that runs from it to the trans kickdown lever. And you need the linkage that goes from the pivot point on the throttle bracket to the carb. Another potential problem I see is the carb. itself. It doesn't look like a Mopar carb. Looks like a GM linkage carb. There's no way to mount the Mopar specific trans. kickdown linkage stud on it from what I see. If it was me I'd buy a cable kit from Lokar or Bouchillion and install it. Probably won't cost much more, if any, than original parts and a much cleaner install. Plus the cable mounts to the bottom of the carb unlike the stock linkage that mounts to the top of the carb throttle lever. That'd solve all the problems I believe. Just another thought for ya.

BTW: I know it may look neater to wire tie the plug wires together but they can magnetically crossfire like that causing your engine to missfire.

Yeah, I'm running an Edelbrock 4 barrel, so I don't think the stock linkage would work (without some backwoods engineering). It sounds like a Lokar set-up is the way to go. As far as the plug wires, can I fab a little bracket that prevents the wires from touching? Would that solve the issue, or should I just "let 'em hang"? THANKS!

 

[71DartGuy]

One more vote for the Lokar setup! It was easy to install and adjust. Just make sure you get the LKR-4000 bracket to mount it to the carb stud. I'm running the same set up as Eric and I love it

 

[HemiPar]

Just jumping on here. But will the Lokar brackets and cable work with the /6?

 

[Optik]

Just jumping on here. But will the Lokar brackets and cable work with the /6?

not sure because the bracket that holds the cables at the carb end is designed to mount to a 4bbl, i think. Thats not to say that something couldn't be fabbed up pretty easily.

I might have a /6 kickdown linkage on my parts car, I'll check for you.

 

[fishy68]

Yeah, I'm running an Edelbrock 4 barrel, so I don't think the stock linkage would work (without some backwoods engineering). It sounds like a Lokar set-up is the way to go. As far as the plug wires, can I fab a little bracket that prevents the wires from touching? Would that solve the issue, or should I just "let 'em hang"? THANKS!

Your right it won't work on the Edelbrock but the Lokar or Bouchillion cable setup will work. Yes you can fab something to keep the plug wires separated, or buy some wire separators from Summit, Jegs, or a local speed shop if you have one. They only cost a couple bucks.

 

[redrag64]

Just jumping on here. But will the Lokar brackets and cable work with the /6?

Check out my "64 Tranny Linkage" post in the early A bodies forum. Slatsixdan says that the set-ups are totally different, and he really seems to know his stuff. That's not to say that you can't get a Lokar set-up that will work. I would check-in with Dan.

 

[HemiPar]

Sorry for the confusion. My /6 has an Offy intake with a Holley 4bbl on it. I can get the throttle to work but need to connect the kickdown so I can start driveing without fear of burning my tranny.

 

[pishta]

I looked at the Bouchilin kickdown cable rig and for 140 bucks, I can make the same part from motorcycle/brake cables and get a new camshaft! Seriously, look at the instructions. It is a puller cable that goes from the bottom of the carb bellcrank (pulls as you open the throttle) and loops back to the rear of the trans and pulls the kickdown lever from the back. Its by no means a bolt on (check the directions out and put a new blade on your hacksaw) but the Lokar may be a bit better, but its still a puller. The proper kickdown lever design is great and can be made, but its easier to buy on Ebay, usually around 70 bucks model specific, and it IS a bolt on and doesnt require you to jerk around with the carb bellcrank and drill numerous holes. just my opinion. Oh yeah, 64-66 look completely different that the later years as there is very limited room in the back of the block. The top pivot is an S shaped rod on a bolt on pivot to the rear of the head, not on intake like most others, the down rod goes outboard of the block and the top rod should be slotted so the carb has some travel before it activates the kickdown, and it should be all the way back at the trans at full throttle. If not, you can unscrew the top rod slotted piece for adjustability. Good luck.

 

[Tony Fields]

Another vote for Lokar!

 

[fishy68]

I looked at the Bouchilin kickdown cable rig and for 140 bucks, I can make the same part from motorcycle/brake cables and get a new camshaft! Seriously, look at the instructions. It is a puller cable that goes from the bottom of the carb bellcrank (pulls as you open the throttle) and loops back to the rear of the trans and pulls the kickdown lever from the back. Its by no means a bolt on (check the directions out and put a new blade on your hacksaw) but the Lokar may be a bit better, but its still a puller. The proper kickdown lever design is great and can be made, but its easier to buy on Ebay, usually around 70 bucks model specific, and it IS a bolt on and doesnt require you to jerk around with the carb bellcrank and drill numerous holes. just my opinion. Oh yeah, 64-66 look completely different that the later years as there is very limited room in the back of the block. The top pivot is an S shaped rod on a bolt on pivot to the rear of the head, not on intake like most others, the down rod goes outboard of the block and the top rod should be slotted so the carb has some travel before it activates the kickdown, and it should be all the way back at the trans at full throttle. If not, you can unscrew the top rod slotted piece for adjustability. Good luck.

You don't have to drill any holes to install a Lokar cable system? I installed it on my car and never even had to drill one single hole nor did I have to jerk with the carb bellcrank. It's extremely easy to install and adjust.

BTW: What's wrong with a cable type system? Sure a lot neater loooking and takes up a lot less space than the originally bellcrank, brackets, and rod system.

 

[Bad Sport]

By any chance did he rebuild the trans with a manual valve body? If so you won't need the throttle pressure linkage. If not then it definitely needs hooked up.