Tranny linkage adjustment

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360Scamp

Mopar or No Car
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I need to adjust my 1st-2nd tranny linkage and was wondering do I put the car in neutral or put it in 1st or 2nd gear?
Thanks
 
Neutral.
There is a slot to stick a 1/4" dowel in, a short drill bit will also work.
 
Ok I checked all the linkages and they are properly adjusted and Im still having the same problem and its really starting to get old and starting to upset me to say the least!
2nd gear grinds coming from 1st and I have to slam it and I shouldnt have to do this and If I wind up 1st gear pretty high it will go in, but then Im still worried when I begin to let out on the clutch to possibly hear it grind. So Im asking you guys for help on what the problem could be? It also wont go into 2nd when downshifting as well. I have tried combo for it to just drop in.

Could it be the syncro? Please help
Thanks
 
What shifter do you have? If you have a Hurst comp-plus with the stop bolts, these need to be adjusted in 3rd and 4th (NOT 1st and 2nd).

But like mentioned, you need to pin the shifter, get all of the levers on the trans in neutral then adjust the swivels.

Also check the condition of everything, if the swivels, holes in the trans levers or holes for the swivels on the shifter have worn, that can cause problems.

Take some pics.

Are you sure it isn't your clutch adjustment?

Do you have oil in the transmission?
 
I have checked my linkage on my A833 and they are adjusted properly and it grinds going into 2nd gear and I have to slam it in gear and i know that is not good. It also doesnt go into 2nd downshifting either. Now I can wind up 1st gear and go into 2nd gear, and Im getting frustrated and upset that its doing this.
Could this be a synchro thats damaged? Also reverse grinds badly after I make a complete stop and try to back up it sounds horrible
Please help
 
... Are you sure it isn't your clutch adjustment?

Do you have oil in the transmission?

If you are sure the above is good, try 90 wt gear oil if that is not what you are using. It probably is your 1st and 2nd synchronizer. I don't mean the brass stop rings, but the whole assy. If you go into it also replace bearings, small parts, and the cluster gear shaft. That should tighten everything up.
 
Well my car had a bench style shifter and I recently put in a pistol grip. But it grinded before I installed the pistol grip.

Yea it has oil in it but its probably low.

Now i put a drill bit thru the shifter to hold everything in neutral, once i do that do i still need to out each lever in neutral? I thought being in neutral...they were in neutral. I know its a stupid question to ask, but I dont know
 
Im not sure if the clutch needs adjusted, i figured it was fine bein that only 2nd gear grinds. i havent tore into it yet. But thats my next adventure to tackle.
 
If you are sure the above is good, try 90 wt gear oil if that is not what you are using. It probably is your 1st and 2nd synchronizer. I don't mean the brass stop rings, but the whole assy. If you go into it also replace bearings, small parts, and the cluster gear shaft. That should tighten everything up.

Exactly
 
What I would try.
With the trans in neutral and the pin in the linkage................
Take a picture of the side cover for reference.
Remove the linkage without allowing the rods to turn from the adjustment they are at.
One at a time manually shift the trans 1-2, 3-4, and reverse through their ranges a couple times coming to a stop back in the neutral position.
Without pulling or pushing on the shift rods or using excessive force see if the tabs go back on fairly easy. If not, adjust the rods as necessary to fit. Don't tighten the shift tabs down till all the rods are adjusted and then tighten.
Remove the pin.
Have someone shift through the pattern slowly while you watch the linkage below.
Check to see if more than one rod is trying to move while going through the pattern a few times.
 
The fact is, it takes trial and error and give and take to get it to land where you want it.
 
Well my car had a bench style shifter and I recently put in a pistol grip. But it grinded before I installed the pistol grip.

Yea it has oil in it but its probably low.

Now i put a drill bit thru the shifter to hold everything in neutral, once i do that do i still need to out each lever in neutral? I thought being in neutral...they were in neutral. I know its a stupid question to ask, but I dont know

First there are no stupid questions. I would first torque the 2 shifter to mounting plate bolts to 30 foot pounds. Next remove the shift rods from the shift arms at the transmission. Torque the shift arms to 18 foot pounds or 216 inch pounds. Now work the levers into first gear then second gear. You may have to turn the driveshaft. If they work well it should center. Now put your 1/4 inch pin in the shifter to lock all the shifter arms into neutral. Adjust the 1st and 2nd rod so it goes into the 1st and 2nd shift arm without moving the shifter arm. Repeat for 3rd and 4th rod. Then the reverse rod.

Then double check your clutch departure, gap between the clutch disc and flywheel or pressure plate, is about .06 of an inch.

I'd drain the fluid and replace with 90 wt gear oil. I think this is the best chance to solve your problem, but adjusting shift rods and clutch departure are worth knowing they are right.
 
What shifter do you have? If you have a Hurst comp-plus with the stop bolts, these need to be adjusted in 3rd and 4th (NOT 1st and 2nd).

If it is a Competition Plus with the stop bolts, make sure they are backed out so they do not limit anything, till you get things working OK. I always use the steel bushings for a positive shift.
 
It might be a couple of days before I get to tackle this because Im in the process of finishing my remodel on my wifes kitchen. But the tranny is first on my to do list.
I will get pics for everyone to look at.

Also when I was under there checking everything, i noticed that all 3 of my linkage tab nuts were loose so I snugged them up.

Now in when you say put it in neutral, i need to put each linkage tab in neutral too?, in order to properly adjust the linkages correct??? Just want to make sure I do this properly
Thanks
 
... Now in when you say put it in neutral, i need to put each linkage tab in neutral too?, in order to properly adjust the linkages correct??? Just want to make sure I do this properly
Thanks

Yes. With the transmission shift arms in neutral, and the shifter locked in neutral by your 1/4 inch bit, your shift rods, when adjusted correctly, should now give you the correct throw. There should be a noticeable neutral spot for the transmission shift arms. Also engage them to be sure they go into each gear, without the shift rods. That way you know the trans will go into each gear and back to the neutral position. Check reverse also.
 
Yes. With the transmission shift arms in neutral, and the shifter locked in neutral by your 1/4 inch bit, your shift rods, when adjusted correctly, should now give you the correct throw. There should be a noticeable neutral spot for the transmission shift arms. Also engage them to be sure they go into each gear, without the shift rods. That way you know the trans will go into each gear and back to the neutral position. Check reverse also.

Ok thanks, I didnt do that, so that may be my problem as well thank you
 
subscribed! let us know what you come up with as my tranny is doing the SAME thing. Grinds going from 1-2 and grinds like hell going into reverse from a dead stop. It also grinds during downshift from 2-1 unless I blip the throttle.
 
So I did as instructed to remove the linkages from the shifter and find neutral in between 1-2 & 3-4 and then pushes the reverse tab on the tranny forward for neutral and adjusted to where all the linkages just move freely in the shifter mechinism and tranny tabs and tighten the tab nuts up and secured all the linkages with my hardware, checked the throw of the shifter.
It felt so weird from where its supposed to be to where it was. I took it for a quick run and its a a completely different car!!! It actually runs like a striped ape!!!!!!!
Thanks again for all the great info on how to do this properly.

Basically my 1-2 was Adjusted too short and it over threw into 1st and not enough into 2nd.
I took pics but photofucket is being stupid
 
Now i put a drill bit thru the shifter to hold everything in neutral, once i do that do i still need to out each lever in neutral? I thought being in neutral...they were in neutral. I know its a stupid question to ask, but I dont know

1. Remove the rods from the trans levers or shifter (One or the other.)
2. Pin the shifter
3. Make sure all trans levers are notched into neutral
4. Adjust each rod so it easily goes into the center of it's corresponding hole.
5. Install the rod retainers.
6. Remove the pin.

Your shifter is now adjusted to the transmission.
 
So now my shift throw for 1-2 is flip flopped, 1st goes a little farther than before and 2nd doesnt go as far as it did! Its a great feeling when things go the way you need/want them to
 
1. Remove the rods from the trans levers or shifter (One or the other.)
2. Pin the shifter
3. Make sure all trans levers are notched into neutral
4. Adjust each rod so it easily goes into the center of it's corresponding hole.
5. Install the rod retainers.
6. Remove the pin.

Your shifter is now adjusted to the transmission.

Thats all you gotta do..... Easy peasy!
 
We just fought the same problem today! Pinned the shifter, adjusted the rods, tightened everything down, pulled the pin, WALLA, shifts like a dream!

Pa karp
 
We just fought the same problem today! Pinned the shifter, adjusted the rods, tightened everything down, pulled the pin, WALLA, shifts like a dream!

Pa karp

Yes. That gets the shifter oriented to the trans, assuming you have the right parts installed. If that doesn't work you need to start looking at other areas.
 
Might wanna watch Jerry Springer. There's some tranny linkups on there sometimes.
 
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