I'm believing this transfer slot setting should be a little square window just like the primaries on a 4 barrel? This is a 64 Dart 225. Should there be studs in the intake for mounting the carb? This has some aftermarket bolts.
Transfer slot Holley 1 bbl
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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make sure the curb-idle screw is on the throttle stop; and the fast-idle cam is not interfering.
But yeah, in the pic you can see carbon/fuel-wash evidence that this particular carb has been running in several different idle positions for extended periods of time.
Make sure that ;
1) the cylinder pressure is adequate and even, and the valve-lash is reasonably close, and;
2) the Ignition system is firing all plugs, the timing systems(plural) are all working, and;
3) the PCV system is functioning correctly, and;
4) the fuel is fresh and at the correct fuel level, the low-speed fuel delivery systems are clean and working, the choke-system is functioning correctly, and that the engine is not getting air from somewhere besides the throttle, and that the system is vented at both ends, ie the tank and the float-bowl, but that none of the rubber jumpers are sucking air.
5) that the heat control-valve in the exhaust manifold is functioning correctly.
6) if you have installed a later air-filter housing with the heated air intake, and plan to run the car at colder outside temps, then the heated air intake system, should be working. If you have installed the fresh-air intake piping on it, then doubly so.
Those systems and conditions all work together at idle, and if any one of them is working poorly or not at all, almost invariably, the throttle position is adjusted, in compensation.
If the intake is aluminum, then the carb should be on studs as the threads will last longer.
If the intake is iron, then, IMO, it doesn't matter, except, if they are studs, I find it easier and quicker to install the carb.
If the vacuum advance system has any delay system on it, I would defeat it, but;
If this leads to detonation, then put the delay mechanism back on until you learn how to overcome the detonation.
If your PCV hose is regular fuel line, then under high vacuum, as the hose gets hotter/softer, there is a good chance that it will collapse and fail to work. When this happens at speed, pressure will build up in the crankcase, and return to the intake side, and/or blow out a gasket or a seal. The pressure always finds it's way out.
Proper PCV hose is a thick-walled hard tube.
But yeah, in the pic you can see carbon/fuel-wash evidence that this particular carb has been running in several different idle positions for extended periods of time.
Make sure that ;
1) the cylinder pressure is adequate and even, and the valve-lash is reasonably close, and;
2) the Ignition system is firing all plugs, the timing systems(plural) are all working, and;
3) the PCV system is functioning correctly, and;
4) the fuel is fresh and at the correct fuel level, the low-speed fuel delivery systems are clean and working, the choke-system is functioning correctly, and that the engine is not getting air from somewhere besides the throttle, and that the system is vented at both ends, ie the tank and the float-bowl, but that none of the rubber jumpers are sucking air.
5) that the heat control-valve in the exhaust manifold is functioning correctly.
6) if you have installed a later air-filter housing with the heated air intake, and plan to run the car at colder outside temps, then the heated air intake system, should be working. If you have installed the fresh-air intake piping on it, then doubly so.
Those systems and conditions all work together at idle, and if any one of them is working poorly or not at all, almost invariably, the throttle position is adjusted, in compensation.
If the intake is aluminum, then the carb should be on studs as the threads will last longer.
If the intake is iron, then, IMO, it doesn't matter, except, if they are studs, I find it easier and quicker to install the carb.
If the vacuum advance system has any delay system on it, I would defeat it, but;
If this leads to detonation, then put the delay mechanism back on until you learn how to overcome the detonation.
If your PCV hose is regular fuel line, then under high vacuum, as the hose gets hotter/softer, there is a good chance that it will collapse and fail to work. When this happens at speed, pressure will build up in the crankcase, and return to the intake side, and/or blow out a gasket or a seal. The pressure always finds it's way out.
Proper PCV hose is a thick-walled hard tube.
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Thank you. I set the transfer slot. Replaced the filter. Set my mixture screw to where it was , 1 1/2 out. Float was good ,needle and seat replaced. The e clip on the float pivot pin was missing. Obviously someone has been in this carb over the last 60 years. Metering block screws weren't very tight. Pcv hose is as rigid and hard as a plastic pipe! Advance works on dizzy. A shot of carb clean under the throttle blade and it fired. Another shot and it ran. I had to play with the throttle for a moment but then it ran on its own. Let it warm up. Havent adjusted mixture with a vacuum gauge yet. After lunch. Thank you for your advice. BTW stock airfilter assembly.
Well the car ran fine. Took it for a good ride. Once warm it was idling very low. I'm thinking maybe I should check the timing as the transfer slot should be close to optimal.and bring the idle up with timing. Does this sound right? Mixture screw adjusted.
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