"Transitional" setup

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BuzzardBoys68

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I want to do a drum-to-disc conversion on the Cuda's fronts (the Scarebird way, I think), but am sticking on the idea of switching to a 5X4.5 setup for wheel availability. Right now, I just need to get it driveable, which means I have to replace all the brake lines, and make sure all the cylinders / drums, etc. are okay (for now). So, without having to do the job twice, I think I want to set it up "transitionally" - i.e. all new lines, adjustable prop valve, new m/c for the disc setup (Will, say, a '74 A-body manual disc m/c be okay to use with my 10" drums until I make the switch to discs?), and, hopefully, keep the drums in place for a while. That way, when I get to the conversion I only have to re-do the caliper lines. Am I out on a limb, here?
 
To avoid a mix and match brake system why not wait until you do the conversion to switch masters? Takes the guess work and the possible danger out of the formula for now . You are defineately in a grey area here as I did the scarebird conversion and Im still using the drum porportioning valve with no probs ...stops great and the pedal feel is good too . stops well even from 100+. I eventually changed over to a power disc brake master (without power booster ) and can't tell any difference ......very grey area indeed
 
Thanks for the info, OUTLAW. Have you gotten around to doin' the write up on your Scarebird conversion? I just got the specs from Scarebird and am almost positive that's the way I'll go.

I don't know if my current wheel cylinders / drums / pads are still in good enough shape that I can live with 'em for a while. I do know that my lines are pretty much shot, and wouldn't want to try trusting them, so they need to go now. Money is not super tight, but I don't have a bank account-full, either. I kinda need to do this in a step-by-step approach.

My m/c is leaking (remember my other post?), so, since I'm doin' the lines, why not the m/c? Doesn't the disc-type m/c plumb differently? Or, can I replace the rod (which is a bit rusty/pitted) and seal for now, keep the stock m/c and it's no big deal to change to the disc-type m/c later?

Then again, this whole line of thought may be for nothing if the brakes are shot - I'll just do the whole conversion instead of putting money into repairing the old set up.

Man, I've only just started and this things already got me turning circles! :grin:
 
welcome to the spin club ....LOL I did the write up already and I think adam moved it to the tech archive. I went a little differently then scarebird directed as I couldnt come up withthe disc that they recommended around here but all in all im happy with the conversion and they stop great and feel verysolid and secure. the m/c I bought was only $16 for rebuilt disc brake master and plumbed identical
 
Yeah, it's funny, every day I get up and my dad (he's up visiting from Florida for a couple months...) asks me, "What direction have you decided to go in today?" :grin:

Okay, so if my drum setup is functional, I can re-do the lines for now, then when I do the conversion I can replace the m/c without any headaches. Just have to mod the caliper lines a bit to hook up the discs. Man, that makes the decision making quite a bit easier. Thanks!

(Gotta try to find your write up...)
 
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