if you can get a bellhousing that matches trans to motor all good.
if not, your standard bell ( keep standard clutch actuation to keep costs down and reliability UP) will need an adapter plate.
set box and bell up up, so the spline on the input shft ends at the friction surface of the flywheel and mesure the gap between rear of, bolted up, bell, and front of trans to give you a ballpark thickness.
Use that positioning to dictate the adapter thickenss and the type of provision you will use for the spigot bush/roller for the input shaft.
I think you will end up useing a roller in the centre of the flywheel mounting flange on the crank where the converter snout fitted on an auto.
you will have to either persuade one of the KIT sellers to go off piste and sell you the part, rather than the kit, or make your own or get the input shaft of the box sleeved to 0.750 on its spigot end, and use the roller used on magnum engines, unchanged.
if you use standard clutch fork you will need a throw out bearing carrier of bigger diameter than a standard A body. use one off a 440/hemi car or off a dodge dakota or Jeep.
if the adapter betwen trans and bell isn't too think
and the 3550 is one that was modifed for use in a mopar (obvious:- has a yellow passivated tin plate cover, over the machined down centeral stick position and a section of the shift rails between the rear position shifter box and the one on the top of the main trans case)
The stick will be in a shifter gate that sits behind the chassis cross member and the alternate stick pistion shift gate box will have been machined down to fit under the cross meber so you will probably get away with only having to remove one part, the front, edge of the pressed contour to the cross member.
up front however the trans is high and fat, has a shifter box position on top of the case so when in the correct position for good drive shaft angle, the tunnel will need to be at a minimum, higher, never mind wider, than it was
I have not done this but i collected a lot of detail from a range of sources who had done it and were willing to share, As i decided what to do myself. 3550 or T5
my motor doesn't warrant a 3550 and i didn't want to fabricate a rasied tunnel section up to the bulkhead hence my choice. I may still have to....
granted not my own real world experience of the upgrade in question, but based on what i did so far with the T5 and what i found out via correspondence and photos when i did my research 5- 6 years ago, that pursuaded me that 3550 was indeed viable, but not for me.
your engine is 2 litres or more bigger than mine me 265- you 360 hence my comfort with 300 - 350 ftlb box , you probably need more torque capcity.
PS the trans mount off an 80s chevy s10 is square like an early A body one. uses 2 studs like an early A body one, is half the height of an early A body one which lends itself to the fact that the tremec rear mount pedestal under the tail housing is deeper than an A body one and you need to use a shorter rubber mount... it won't bolt up easily but it can get you closer.
looks like a viable proposition to me
2771 Rear Transmission Mount 1Pc for chevrolet S10 83-82 RWD 14027910 | eBay
Dave
