Yes, I used a 70+ B-body shifter boot/bezel and has plenty of clearance. It should fit yours like a glove!
Tremec TKX conversion in A-body!
- Thread starter M0P@R_44
- Start date
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Yep, it was supplied with the kit from American Powertrain. I didn't even know it would be offset until I got it. They might sell it individually.
Got the exhaust tacked and bolted together. I'm still having rubbing issues with the z-bar and the header, might end up having to take it out and re-modify it so I can actually install the clutch rod and finally be able to drive the car. It seems like the z-bar I got from TTI to use their headers is working out with my bellhousing ballstud bracket..
DionR
Well-Known Member
Based on the last picture, I would guess you have the wrong ball stud mount on the bellhousing. If the z-bar were higher on that end, it sure looks like it would all clear. Plus the angle the z-bar tube is coming into the ball stud looks tweaked.
Or maybe the ball stud mount location is wrong on the bellhousing?
Either way, I would look at the mount first.
Yes, that's what I'm thinking as well, but I made sure to get the correct bellhousing ballstud from Brewer’s. I researched it quite a bit for this exact reason and then came up wrong at the end..
I'll have to double check the part number for the bal stud, but the description was supposed to be for this exact combo.. I di notice that the frame mounted ball stud looked a bit crooked but didn't think too much of it until I installed it all
Depending on where you tightened your front engine mount brackets, engine weight on or engine weight off, can be 1/2". Plus, is your tailshaft at stock height? This can all affect the z bar angle. Some tweaking will be necessary, on any installation.
Keep after it!
Keep after it!
Well after much messing with it, I decided to stop and take it to a shop where they actually have a lift and all the tools to make it all happen. I don't normally take any of my cars to any shop, but got recommended this one by a good friend and decided to try them out. I also needed to have my exhaust fully welded and an alignment, so it'll be an all in one stop.
Once on the lift and only an hour in, they persuaded me into going hydraulic instead of the stock setup I was going for. For what they were going to charge me to modify my z-bar and make it all work as factory, they instead will be installing all new parts with a hydraulic system.
The stock look will be out the window, but will now have convenience and dependability of a more modern setup.
Once on the lift and only an hour in, they persuaded me into going hydraulic instead of the stock setup I was going for. For what they were going to charge me to modify my z-bar and make it all work as factory, they instead will be installing all new parts with a hydraulic system.
The stock look will be out the window, but will now have convenience and dependability of a more modern setup.
The stock look goes away when the OEM floor hump with the side mounted shifter is not present. Not so much mechanical linkage.
I believe the convenience, clearances and modernized clutch linkage are the benefits of hydraulic. Hard to beat the dependability of mechanical linkage when set up right.
Surprised it's cheaper to go hydraulic versus making the mechanical work. Did you weld in the outer ball stud gusset? Curious of the issue? The tail shaft looks to be pretty close to the stock tail shaft location.
With that said. I also decided to go the hydraulic clutch. I went with SST. Running the big block with TTI headers I thought the extra room would be nice. I am also working on a garage floor with Jack stands. A lift would be nice. Cool car and nice progress.
I believe the convenience, clearances and modernized clutch linkage are the benefits of hydraulic. Hard to beat the dependability of mechanical linkage when set up right.
Surprised it's cheaper to go hydraulic versus making the mechanical work. Did you weld in the outer ball stud gusset? Curious of the issue? The tail shaft looks to be pretty close to the stock tail shaft location.
With that said. I also decided to go the hydraulic clutch. I went with SST. Running the big block with TTI headers I thought the extra room would be nice. I am also working on a garage floor with Jack stands. A lift would be nice. Cool car and nice progress.
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Great job, I too went with the traditional “tall” Hurst shifter in my Demon. Mine is matched to a T60 and I ended up fabricating a new tunnel. In my frustration and laziness I made it bigger than it needed to be so ran into some similar issues.
The outer stud ball gusset was already there and looks fine. I think it was just a mismatch of parts that I used.. although I think I was pretty thorough on selecting. Oh well, I guess it happened for a reason, and that reason was to go hydraulic!
I Love the tall Hurst pistol grip! So what did you end up doing for shifter bezel/boot? Love that Sublime color btw
GoGrnDvl340
Active Member
Was the crossmember part number BHS578 included with the kit? Or did you purchase it separate? I like how it has a loop that goes over the top to reinforce everything since the original loop is cut out to fit the 5 speed. I like silver sports customer service and they have directions for A body but their kit doesn’t include this crossmember. Thanks for taking the time to answer this question on the crossmember
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I used an off the shelf Hurst boot with chrome edging. I just rolled it a bit to match contour of tunnel. Cheap and easy plus looks good!
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